Hock clearing the A2 pitch 100 feet off the bivvy at Dinner Ledge ... first time he ever placed a Friend!
Thursday, January 31, 2008
Blast from the past: south face of the column
Hock clearing the A2 pitch 100 feet off the bivvy at Dinner Ledge ... first time he ever placed a Friend!
Memories of Michael
So, what is your favorite mountain memory of Michael Franklin? And what is the next route that we will have a quorum on to spread some of his ashes? The picture above ways taken on top of Pinnacle Buttress on Mount Washington. Hock and Michael had just completed the four pitch Pinnacle Gully (NEI III+).
The Good Old Days
"The Fat Boys Come Back Skinny Expedition." Hock and Mark moments after unloading their gear from the plane. Notice the feed bag dangling from the neck, and the 50mm nordic racing boots. The unseen details include: one toothbrush between us, one book between us, no down parkas, only single mountaineering boots, and the barest minimum of climbing gear. Mark was under 11 days for the roundtrip Reno-Denali-Reno. (Click on picture to enlarge it.)
Monday, January 28, 2008
Larry R.
also got a few laps in too.
Katika had a little baby that we named Hope. In another 3-4 days Selden will be back milking her and skimming off the cream. So, fossils it is time for a visit ... nothing like fresh heavy cream in your morning tea and coffee, not to mention the homemade heather bar crunch ice cream.NCS students storm Rummey N.H.
8th and 9th graders ice climbing on their "invitational only" trip.
Routes up to NEI IV+ and M5 were climbed.
Sunday, January 27, 2008
Here is Gary at 18,500' at the base of the West Face, as we stalled out -- trying to forgo the advance basecamp -- and do a one-day blast from 14,000.' 
Multiplication Gully (NEI III) will be our warm up ... how does mid-February sound?Sunday, January 20, 2008
The final rappel getting off the "Eye of the Needle" NEI 3+ on the backside of Pitchoff.Old, Tired, and Tattered
well thumbed ... When we going back?
On top of the Aiguille de Argentiere outside of Chamonix in the summer of 1977. Notice a few period pieces, the puffy Gerry down jacket which I still use and is now held together by duct tape. The army surplus mittens, with the trigger finger just visible. And the "slightly" unkempt beard. On a related note, the astute may pick out the Swiss Route on Les Courtes directly behind me, which did not have its first American ascent until 1965 when Chouinard and Kor climbed it some thirty years after the original ascent. The really keen eyed may be able to pick out the "Shroud" on the Grand Jorasses directly behind Les Courtes. SO DO ANY FOSSILS SEE THESE ICE ROUTE IN THEIR FUTURE? 
While skiing around campus yesterday I came upon this scene, one of my students pulling out a 13 inch lake trout while ice fishing. Hello Fossils, when are you coming for a visit? If the ice climbing is too daunting we can always go fishing?Tuesday, January 15, 2008
NCS Whiteface Day
advanced lesson. I was his helper ... Somebody has to do it and it
sure beats the office.
Sunday, January 13, 2008
1989 Fossil Trip
Cresting Jackass Pass in the Wind Rivers, the boys managed to do: East Ridge of Wolf's Head (II 5.6), South Buttress of Pingora (II, 5.6) and the Overhanging Tower - Shark's Nose Traverse (II, 5.6).
Sons and Daughters
Saturday, January 12, 2008
Mountainfest
Hoffman - is doing laps on a thawing Pitchoff Right.
Friday, January 11, 2008
Hock to Introduce Doug Scott
Introduction:
I am excited but also flattered, as well as a bit surprised to be introducing our guest Doug Scott. As a headmaster of a local boarding school, I am mostly shackled to my desk. These days the only “Alpine starts” I am allowed are days like Wednesdays when I am on the road at 3 AM, rushing to catch the first train out of Albany to Manhattan … for a day of fund raising. And so I really hope that Doug will get a chance to hang out with some “real Adirondack climbers” while he is here.
Having said all that, for those relatively unfamiliar with the details, we are going to hear an amazing narrative about one of the great adventure stories of all time. More than a climbing story, more than a Himalayan tale, this a moment of high drama and a testimonial to all that is best in the human spirit. It is the kind of tale you expect to hear recounted third or forth hand, around a fire ring perhaps in Camp Four. (My first hearing of this tale was huddled around the stove in the Harvard Cabin in Huntington Ravine where I was the caretaker. Just a few short months after the events on the Ogre occurred, Paul Ross an ex-Brit was doing a bit of guiding, and regaling all at the cabin.) It is a tale that makes your jaw drop and your eyes grow wide with amazement. A tale that you pray you’ll never find yourself stuck in the middle of. A tale on par with Hillary’s climb, or Shackleton’s voyage, or Nansen’s ski crossing … its a tale you expect to read about in a book, as you never expect to hear the tale from the mouth of Odysseus ... tonight we have that great privilege.
Finally, Doug Scott is representative of an entire climbing generation. For those of you that are familiar with the book, he is indeed one of the Boys of Everest. Sitting at a study carrel in the basement stacks of the college library I constantly perused climbing rags when I should have been studying. Seemingly I lived to follow the escapades of Bonington, Whillans, Brown, Patey, Haston, Boardman, Tasker, and Renshaw, Rouse and Doug Scott, it was what got me interested in the sport in the first place. It was their stories of grim nordwands and lung busting 8000 meter peaks, not the short vicious overhangs at my Gunks, nor the multi-day aid routes of the Valley that caught my attention. And as my own climbing evolved, and my skills more closely matched my aspirations, it was Doug’s accounts of Denali that I turned to before heading off to the Cassin. It was his expeditions to the Garwhal that I read about before applying for permits to Kalanka and Dunagiri.
Please welcome Doug Scott.
Sunday, January 6, 2008
Skiing to Olympic Trails
the biathlon trails. (Click on the photo to enlarge it ... our cabin is just visible in the bakground.)
Saturday, January 5, 2008
What is wrong with this picture?
