Climbing and Yoga: Injury Prevention or Causation?

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Big Route Option

Frendo Spur D+ (Fr Alpine)

A classic mixed route at the grade. Cross the bergschrund and climb the snow terrasses rightwards until it is possible to gain a leftward-slanting series of ramps. Climb along these until the rock steepens, then take a series of easy corners and chimneys trending slightly rightwards to gain the crest of the spur.

Climb this by the easiest line, following regular pegs and tat, until a notch is reached. Do not climb the prominent corner facing the notch, instead go slightly left up an overlap (crux of the rock section, in-situ pegs) and continue up the left hand side of the crest to the top of the rock. Don your crampons and head up the aesthetically pleasing snow crest (55 degrees at the top). This leads to the rock rognon. Most parties turn this on the left past bolted belays (50m intervals) to a steep top pitch (scottish III / IV) and the final plod to the station.

length:1200m

Another Big Option: Gervasutti Pillar

Gervasutti Pillar TD+ (Fr Alpine)
One of the great classics of the range. Fine climbing on the pillar followed by some tricky route finding to reach the summit.
An early start is essential to minimise the risk of stonefall in the entry couloir - this is a very nasty place as the sun hits the upper part of the face first thing in the morning.

From the rimaye, a tricky few steps op to a narrow ledge gets you up out of the couloir where you can gear up in safety. From here climb an easy pitch to a larger ledge then a harder pitch up and round to the left to gain the crest of the ridge via an off-width crack. Enjoy the next several hundred meters of climbing on this magnificent pillar passing a letterbox and finally a series of strenuous crack pitches to arrive at a ledge from where a hard crack (three pegs if still there) goes up left onto another part of the pillar.

This is much harder than the previous difficulties and need not be attempted. Rather go right and slightly downwards to pass the main pillar via a couloir full of giant detatched blocks (remains of ancient fixed ropes) . Climb uo to the col which marks the end of the pillar and continue until you reach a drop (15m or so). Rap down an then climb the left hand of two obvious corner cracks. From the top of this follow a shattered (or snow filled?) couloir up right to another col. Cross the col and cilimb to the summit.

Descend easily via the normal route.

Guidebook time 10-12 hours from the rimaye to the summit.

Gunks

Selden and I spent 24 hours at Mohonk as I had some professional meetings to attend. Sunday yielded some nice bouldering, while Monday was quite rainy. Brian climbed last week ... where are the photos? (Click on the photo to enlarge the image.)

Campus Fly-over

(Click to enlarge photo.) A picture of a portion of the NCS campus, with a view of Whiteface off in the distance. The center of the photo is the Trouble Slabs with an easy 5.2 route (80'). In the lower corner is the Ski Hill Crag which is 40' high and has about twenty routes from 5.4-5.11a.

Bouldering

Spring is here and I had a great 45 minute session. Lots of laps on
easy 5.6-5.7 problems.

Why are the French so fast?

Interesting article about alpine climbing technique ... click here.

On the hit list!

The Chere Couloir, just a short approach from the hut.

Stocking the fossil cabin

Carpet, firewood, bedding, posters, and of course more climbing books.
(Click on the photo to enlarge it.)

The ice is almost out of the lakes

The 'dacks are ready for rock climbing. Just out of sight there is a
party on Pitchoff. I went bouldering today.

Putting the Skis Away

Today was Whiteface's final day. Lucy logged 35 days on snow (70%
Nordic) and I logged 65 days (80% Nordic). However, despite good
backcountry conditions, it is time to make the switchover, her to
horseback riding and me to rock climbing.

First Day On Rock

Hock in his Brooks Brothers polo shirt and khakis, climbing the 5.7+ "Unexpected" in his mountain boots. The crag on the backside of the school's ski hill is a south facing cliff and was in great shape, despite lots of snow in the backcountry.

Fossil Tele-Dude!

Well I don't drop the knee as deeply as I used too, and I certainly do not do a lead change as quickly, however I still manage to ski the steep slopes competently.

Gary: last ice of the season

Gary cruising up the 1200' North face of Gothics a couple of weeks ago. This thinly iced, 45-50 degree face, is one of the premier winter alpine routes in the Adirondacks.

Ending with a Tour

After riding the lift for a third day in a row, I finished by skinning
up 1000' to the vicinity of Catherine's Pass near East Castle.

Devil's Castle

The skiing at Alta has been fantastic ... 21 inches of new powder in
the first two days! In the picture are two Fossil Friends - Susie and Bonnie - catching their breath on the third say of skiing.

Michael Franklin Memory

Almost 30 years ago we made a plan to climb the south ridge of Mount
Superior (skyline). Michael was to come and get me at 4 AM, the only
problem being I had been out dancing with Hikmet until 2:30! Let's
just say I was dragging a little on the route. (Click on the photo to enlarge it ... do you notice the buried building?)

New Guidebook

The new Adirondack rock guide just came out and I have two short 5.9
first ascents ... NCS Crack and Hochschartner Highway. I am heading
out to Alta at 2:30 AM.

Champing at the bit

Three of my students cajoled me into wading through the drifts to do
some bouldering. Here Izzy spots Sam on the 5.10+ problem.

17 Years Ago: what a great trip!

Danny, Michael, Hock, Brian, and mark had an amazing week in Colorado. An ascent of McHenrys, several pitches on Spearhead before the rain, Sharkstooth, Kieners on Longs Peak, several pitches on Lumpy Ridge, and the Bastille Crack in Eldorado Canyon. (However, the big prize - a route on the diamond - eluded us.
CLICK HERE TO VIEW A VIDEO OF THE SHARKSTOOTH CLIMB.

Another 30 Year Old Memory

CLICK ON THE PICTURES TO ENLARGE THEM!