Another Summit

A few days back we did the traverse of the Aiguille de Crochuses. An
easy route (two pitches of IV-) with lots of exposed roped scrambling
in between ... Fantastic views.

Summit Pitch

Larry leading the 5.10+ pitch to the summit of the aguille de Gliere.
After a long day he freed it with ease although he was anxious about
yarding up on the skinny flake. An amazingly tiny summit from which
you start the rappel "a cheval."

Hard to lose weight!

Even when you are flogging the tired body up and down the hills ... It
is sure hard to shed pounds with offerings like this at the refugios.

South Ridge Aiguille de Gliere

Possibly the best alpine rock route I have ever done: beautiful solid
gneiss. 14 pitches long. Fantastic views. Exposed. Three eagles
soaring overhead and chamois dancing on 5.8 rock. Memorable pitches
like the razor, double cracks, initial layback, 60 meter corner, and
5.10+ technical dance to a TINY summit. (Truth in advertising ... I
took a point of aid carrying the pack and so call it 5.9 AO for me.)

Sunset

A photo from our bivy last night ... Off to do the south ridge of the
Gliere

A Bit of Alpine History

The presence of a Crystal Museum and a spectacular rock shop in
Chamonix reminded me that historically one of the four - off season -
vocations for guides was crystal hunting. The other three were:
farmer, wood cutter, and more recently ski instructor.

Grim Reminder

In the Maison de la Montagne, the the Corps de Guides there is a
memorial to all the guides (since 1820) that have lost their life
while working in the mountains. Sobering!

Alpine development

Both boon and plague for every mountain town from Chamonix to Lake
Placid, and Zermatt to Squaw Valley, as well as Huaraz to Alta. It
seems to be all about limits, balance, and design. How to keep a sense
of the sublime and community, all in harmony with economic growth.

Why Do We Climb?

Mallory only got it partially correct ... Of course because it is
there ... But more specifically because the chocolate, spicey meats,
cakes, and spirits are there too on our return.

Birth of Alpinism

There are several statues in different public squares honoring
Paccard, Balmat, and Saussare who are responsible for the early
attempts to climb Mont Blanc.

Cosmique Arete

This was our first route, just hours after arriving in Chamonix.
Despite the jet lag we passed several parties, only to be held up by a
catalog photo shoot on the top pitch. (The picture is patterned after
the famous one of Gaston Rebuffat ... Although Larry is sans knickers,
pipe, and sweater.)

Chamonix

No doubt this place is the capital of alpinism and ski sports. It is
amazing that it has taken me 30+ years for a return visit.

Point Lachenal

Larry tops out on the third summit in this short - two hour -
traverse. Mostly a snow climb it finished with a 5.4 chimney done in
crampons. (The Capucin is in the background.)

Aiguille de L'M

After a two hour approach - up and down several moraines - we arrive
at the base of the six pitch route. The climbing was very varied, and
the "letterbox" was not so much fun with a pack.

Aiguille de L'M

Larry is stemming one of the crux pitches - probably 5.7 or 5.8 -
fantastic rock and views. (If truth be told, pretty hard going
carrying the pack.) However, we had great trouble with ropes hanging
up on rappel.

The climbing is great but ...

This is a photo of a famous Samivel cartoon. Sometimes it feels pretty
crowded on the classic routes.

Aiguille de L'Index

Here we are at the start of the south ridge (left hand sky line).
These routes in the aiguille routes on the north side of the Arve
Valley are lower in height than the main massif. Still, the very
exposed five pitch route (5.5) was a classic. We saw a herd of chamois
en route.

Walker Spur

As the boys get ready for a short - but classic - rock route they stop
for a shot of the Grand Jorssses and one of the six famous north faces.

Chamonix's finest granite

The eperon cosmique had spectacular red granite and amazing
handcracks! A bit of "French free" got us past the crux overhang.
Tomorrow we have breakfast at 3 am and give the jager couloir a shot.

Chapel in La Paz

This morning our route started near here with an amazing view of the
Dru ... North face, American Direct, and the Bonatti Pillar!

Only in the Alps

The chapels occupy the best mountain views ... The south face of the
Brevent.

Remember the old days?

This hostel sure beats the Biolay or Snell's field of the 1970s! Moreover, the beers at happy hour are only 1.5 euros.

Cosmique Hut

This sure beats a tent on the glacier!

Landing in Geneva

Who could imagine that two hours after landing Larry and Hock are
strapping on crampons at 12,000 feet!

Tomorrow's Agenda

The Eperon Cosmique. A full six or seven pitches at 12,000'. It is
graded 5.8 A0 ... Three moves in slings off of fixed gear. How do you
spell nervous?

funny one from Cham

We found this 30+ year old sardine can at the base of the aiguille de
L'M - with mustard sauce - so I am sure it was from Mark and Danny!
Miss you guys.

Aiguille de L'Index

This morning we caught the tram to do a short - yet spectacular climb
- up the left-hand skyline. If truth be told, I am starting to drag a
bit ... Larry has enough energy to light up a small city if we could
harness it.

Almost ready to board

JFK to Heathrow and on to Geneva and the shuttle bus - ChamExpress -
to our campground.

24 hours Travel Time

Having finished the 2.5 hour trip to Albany the guys board Amtrak for
NYC. (Larry is going to stitch up a rip in the tent on the train.)

Alpine Start

It was all the rage for Obama, Clinton, and McCain to talk about who could answer the call at 3 AM. I don't know what those guys are doing at 3 AM, but I am sharpening the cobras, and weighing the merits of rigid v. hinged crampons!

(As you can see from the webcam picture, the weather continues to be a bit marginal, although a high pressure system has started to move into the Alps.)

Packing

I'll catch a few hours sleep and be up at 3:00 AM to do a few memos
and finish packing. I am psyched!

Less Than 24 hours

We are approaching blast-off, and while it is raining now, a high pressure system is moving in tomorrow ... sunny weather for Wednesday-Saturday ... yahoo!

Father's Day

Here is one of three great framed pictures I got for the fossil cabin.

Last tune-ups

We travel to Chamonix in less than 48 hours. The picture was taken
this morning while I was third classing at Owl's Head. This week's
totals include: 20 short moderate/hard pitches (two on the sharp end),
two bouldering sessions, and six aerobic sessions (including the
cascade testpiece ... 2.5 miles and 2,000 vertical in 50 minutes).

Turning 21

Jon and the family celebrating this milestone with gooey donuts.

Five More Days!

Although it was a very snowy Spring, as you can see the weather in Chamonix continues to improve. (The picture is the off-loading ramp from the Aiguille du Midi tram.) I just heard from some Brits via email who have done the Chere and Jager colouirs recently as well as the north face of the Tour Ronde ... I think we'll have something to climb.

A Bit of History

I was messing around at the Fossil Clubhouse, waiting for the sunset, when I poked through some crates and found this gem ... it brought back many fond memories.

A Nice Day in Cham

Over three decades ago - too cheap to take the tram or train - Mark and I walked down the entire length of the glacier into Bar Nationale in Chamonix, after having done our first route together (the classic traverse of the Geant and Rochefort). During the descent on the Mer de Glace I caught Mark before he tumbled into a crevasse on this first outing together. (Of course he returned the favor and hour later, when my first generation Chouinard rigid crampons broke and I took a spill.)

On Belay!

Hock at the tiny stance at the top of an Owl's Head crack. In
addition, there were 8 other laps to do in the 5.6 - 5.9 range ...
Feeling fit and almost ready for Chamonix.

Hock's Weekly Totals

I climbed 10 short moderate pitches (one on the lead), a short bouldering session, six modest aerobic workouts (30-40 minutes), and 40 minutes of yoga. The picture is night-time in Chamonix ... 9 more days to go.

Owl's Head Expedition

Saturday morning and Lucy, Teresa, and Betsy get some quick exercise.
Afterwards, Hock, Jon, and Lucy took off to see grandpa in New
Hampshire while Selden worked on the barn.

Sharp end

Hock leading 5.6 crack at Owl's Head.

The Silver Fox

Danny turns 59! Send him a congratulatory email (dhyde@ttusd.org). The rumor is that he is having a yard sale this weekend and selling his old ice axes and hexcentrics ... great bargains! (Apologies for the poor reproduction, hopefully Danny will send me a better photo.)

Calling all Fossils and Friends

Greg - friend of the fossils - has won a grant to study the alpine glaciers in the Sierras. The mules are being loaded on August 8th, and he has a permit for up to 15 people. The palisades cirque has everything from walk up peaks to big walls (Dark Star), and long ridge traverses to ice routes ... who can join us?

Heritage breed ewes

Clun forest sheep - rare in the USA - they were Selden's 49th birthday present. They will keep the lawn nice and trim for the fossils to frolic in.

Bomber!

Hock setting up the TR at Owl's Head ... overkill as usual, his M.O. never changes.

Our First Route?

The Chere colouir will probably be our warmup route in the Alps ... simply approach, short, and fixed rappels. (Clink on this link to view a 3 minute video.)

Less than two weeks

Larry and Hock running laps in the big boots ... getting ready for Chamonix.