Col de L'Aiguille Verte

Another outrageous Chamonix ski descent!

Andreas Fransson skiing Col de L´Aiguille Verte from Bjarne Sahlen on Vimeo.

Ice Climbing Tips From Will Gadd

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THIS SHORT ARTICLE.

Skiing the Aiguille Blanche

The things they ski these days in Chamonix is pretty amazing. I am not sure I would climb it with two tools and a full rack of screws, let alone ski the darn thing!

Aig Blanche ski descent from Luca Rolli on Vimeo.

Training for a Winter Ascent of the Matterhorn

This morning Carter and I did multiple laps on some 5.2-5.4 routes that were thoroughly snowed and iced up, on the NCS crag. Climbing with crampons, hooking nubbins with tools, and jamming the occasional gloved hand in a crack, all at 10 degrees was good training.

Ode to the belay parka

Read top flight alpinist, Kelly Cordes' essay published on Patagonia's blog. A more than gentle nod to the importance of having a belay parka clipped to your harness or in the top of your pack. The enclosed picture is from the Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter.


CLICK ON THIS LINK TO READ THE FULL ESSAY.

Chamonix Alpine Granite

This ten minute video chronicles a successful trip to the Alpine Mecca.

Chamonix Alpine Granite from Joshua Lavigne on Vimeo.

Biathlon Nor-Ams

I had a big day of training for the Haute Route ... It started with a two hour classical ski with over a thousand feet of climbing and then a couple of hours of telemark turns out on the NCS ski hill. My ski started from the biathlon trails where I watched a bit of the sprint competition. In the picture you see one of the women from the Canadian development team coming into the finish. On a related note, the biathlon World Cup circuit moves to Maine for the next two weeks.

More illustrations from GLACIER MOUNTAINEERING

A funny but all too common scenario ... The second man on the rope team is an eager beaver with way too much slack, and the third man is slow and being dragged on a tight rope ... Not a good scene on the glacier. (CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO ENLARGE THE PHOTOGRAPH.)

The Secret of Staying Warm On An Ice Climb

CLICK HERE TO READ THE ESSAY.

Video: snow pit basics

Telemark Turns

After several laps skinning up and down the NCS ski hill, I ripped the hide, grabbed the rope tow, and made 60 minutes worth of turns.

Terrific Book ... GLACIER MOUNTAINEERING

I have mentioned it before on the Fossil Blog, however GLACIER MOUNTAINEERING by Tyson and Clelland is awesome. Clear and concise, with often some very funny illustrations. It is particularly useful for the skier or ski mountaineer making a transition to alpine climbing. (CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO ENLARGE IT.)

NCS Snow Physics Class

Larry's class covers the theoretical and scientific principles involved in the mountain snowpack, however he also teaches students the rudiments of avalanche safety, route selection, and rescue. Here the students are using transceivers to locate a buried victim.

Umbilicals for your ice tools ... again

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE COLD THISTLE ESSAY.

Demo ski and bindings

As the Haute Route gets closer I am having a bit of gear anxiety. Tele-gear, use my old Ramers on alpine skis, buy new AT gear, or maybe buy silvretta 500s, mount them on tele-skis and use my mountaineering boots.

On Tuesday I skied this setup on Whiteface, and yesterday I toured laps on the ski hill with them ... Loved the bindings, and especially loved the Dynafit Mustagh Ata skis.

WARREN "BATSO" HARDING

This article was originally published in the San Francisco Examiner, and then publishes in Climbing Magazine.

CLICK ON THIS LINK TO ACCESS THIS IMPORTANT PIECE OF CLIMBING HISTORY.

BLAST FROM THE PAST

About 35 years ago Hock, Danny, and Mark met in the municipal pool in Chamonix. The Aiguille de Geant was our first route, and several days later, I soloed the 5,000' route on the Brenva Face of Mount Blanc. Climbing the Sentinelle Rouge was one of the highlights of my climbing career.

Ueli Steck The Swiss Machine

The video trailer for an amazing Reel Rock video. You see Ueli soloing in the Alps and speed climbing with Alex Honnold in Yosemite. Clearly, he is THE MAN!

The Ueli Steck Special Edition Knife

More like a leatherman, however it is just made for taking care of ice tools and ski mountaineering gear. The video makes it look pretty slick ... besides Ueli Steck is my hero!

Hard Mixed Winter Climbing in Scotland

This video follows the progress and the whippers taken by some guys trying to put up a new route in the Cairngorms on Coire An Lochain.

Coldest adirondack night yet

This was the coldest night of the winter. The bottom dropped out of the thermometer, and on campus the readings were -38 or -40 degrees depending on where it was taken. (Believe it or not, the temperature is still dropping.) Barn chores is going to be brutal in another hour, but heck our kids are tough.

Alpinist Profile: the Grand Teton

The new issue is out, and the large essay on the Grand is superb! I just picked it up at the Mountaineer ... It looks awesome.

Video: flight into the Kahiltna

Approaching Denali from Hossedia on Vimeo.

If your mouth just doesn't start watering while you are viewing this video, well maybe you just do not have a pulse. I see this and I say ... Cassin anyone?

NORIO MATSUMATO

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS AN ARTICLE ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER..

Eagle Slide on Giant

Unfortunately, this classic snow climb (ski descent) does not look in shape yet.

Climbing Art

Most of you probably remember the old A5 magazine ads from back in the 1980-1990s. The book dealer Michael Chessler has gotten his hands on the original pen and ink drawings by McMullen. They are quite reasonable ... $25-$50. (AS ALWAYS CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO ENLARGE IT.)

Exquisite Mountain Landscapes

Norio Matsumoto is a Japanese photographer who lives in an igloo or tent for months on end as he photographs the northern lights against spectacular mountain backdrops.

(Many thanks for the Talkeetna Air Taxi blog which turned me on to this wonderful photographer.)

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS A GALLERY OF HIS NORTHERN LIGHTS PHOTOGRAPHS.

Back to the Adirondacks

After a successful board meeting I am heading home and expect to arrive at NCS in the early afternoon for a good ski tour.

Jim Logan Interview

Still climbing regularly at 60, Jim talks about his famous route on Robson's Emperor Face in the CLIMBING magazine interview.


CLICK HERE TO READ THE INTERVIEW.

Ice Climbing Accident

Another valuable post from the Cold Thistle website. This one covers the potential for rope damage in a fall when the rope runs over an ice screw crank left exposed after placement. VERY IMPORTANT.

CLICK HERE TO READ THE FULL REPORT.

Video: Kikkan's World Cup Win In Liberec

A flawless race, fantastic tempo, and well waxed skis, yield her second ever world cup victory. (Unfortunately the commentary is in Polish.)

Avalanche Instructional Tool

The NCS middle-school curriculum is unusual in many respect, and certainly our 8th grade Earth science class unit on snow physics is one of those unique offerings. In this two month hands-on class all students get the equivalent of a Level I-II avalanche training, as well as substantial field opportunities. This PowerPoint presentation - made by Larry - uses a variety of slides from climbing trips, as well as some resources that I put together 20+ years ago, when I taught the course. ENJOY.

The Early Days of Telemark Skiing in Europe

CLICK HERE TO READ THE FULL ARTICLE.

New Adirondack Ice Route

Endangered Species from Matt McCormick on Vimeo.

On Friday January, 14. Bayard Russell, Matt Horner and I climbed a line on the “Big Wall” section of Poko-Moonshine in the Adirondacks. The line paralleled the legendary Jeff Lowe route Gorillas in the Mist which hasn’t seen a 3rd ascent since Alex Lowe and Randy Rackliff repeated it the day after the FA in 1997.

Insane Vedauwoo Off-Width

Pamela Pack doing a 5.13a in Vedauwoo Wyoming. She wound up working into this position in an off width crack to place some pro.

CLICK ON THE IMAGINE TO ENLARGE THIS VERY ODD PICTURE.

History and Review of Current Umbilicals

An excellent essay on Cold Thistle about the history of, and current state of the art for ice climbing umbilicals. I'm convinced!

CLICK HERE TO READ THE FULL ARTICLE.

PROFILE OF AN ALPINIST

Read this excellent essay, "The Style That Counts," about the life, times, and climbs of Andy Parkin. This appeared a couple of years ago in CLIMBING magazine.

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE ARTICLE.

Video: 2010 Olympic sprint competition

This was an amazing classical sprint final, and it clearly foretold that "The Queen" was back! ENJOY.

Kikkan Takes The Yellow Jersey

The FIS cartoonist does not usual get to caricature American Nordic skiers, but not only did Kikkan win the Ladies world cup sprint at Liberec, but she has now moved into first place in the overall sprint category.

Adirondack Cold Spell

It was -30F this morning, although by the time the NCS Nordic team got out on the Olympic trails it was a balmy 5 degrees above zero!

Critical Peruvian Problem: melting glaciers

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE FULL ARTICLE.

2011 Nordic Sprint Championships

Jeff Lowe's Route on the Eiger

This video is a work in progress, narrated by Jon Krakauer, it contains archival footage of Lowe's climbing career, as well as the narrative of his exceedingly difficult - yet to be repeated - route on the North face of the Eiger. The route completed in the early 1990s was a futuristic mixed climb ... the trailer is well worth viewing ... make a small donation to the project as well.



CLICK HERE TO READ MORE ABOUT THE PROJECT AND FIND OUT HOW YOU CAN MAKE A DONATION.

Fighting Forty

Read this four part series by Kelly Cordes about aging and alpinism. Of course, he better start planning for "Fighting Fifty," and "Figjting Sixty." of course, now that several Fossils are old enough to collect social security .... What routes will we be climbing at Sevemty?


CLICK HERE TO ACCESS TNE ARTICLE ON THE PATAGONIA BLOG.

Kikkan Kicking It Into High Gear

Yesterday Kikkan won the world cup a print race in Liberec. It was the same course that she won her silver medal at the World Championships a few years back. She had the 3rd fastest time in the Prologue and then took control in every heat ... She is the teal deal, and as we saw in the Tour de Ski, she is rapidly turning into a world class distance skier.


CLICK ON THIS LINK TO ACCESS THE FULL DETAILS.

Beautiful Adirondack Day

Alpine Glaciers and Climate Change

CLICK ON THIS LINK TO READ THE SUMMARY OF THE LATEST RESEARCH FROM THE GEOPHYSICAL INSTITUTE.

Sunset in Zermatt

It looks like the end of a beautiful day in the Pennine Alps of Switzerland. I had a good day of training for the Haute Route as I skied laps on our ski hill with AT gear for 75 minutes, made a quick change of clothes and went out on my skate skis for another hour.


CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE WEBCAM.

Super Tour in Lake Placid

It was two beautiful days of Nordic racing with many of the top dogs on hand ... USST, top eastern collegiate racers, top juniors from across America, as well as some of my alumni (pictured). Friday's classical race was won by Holly Brooks and Lars Flora, while Saturday's classical race was won by Holly Brooks and Noah Hoffman.

Mount Everest and Maurice Wilson

The British have a long history with Mount Everest, starting with the 1921 Reconnaissance, the I'll-fated Mallory-irvine attempt, the success in 1953, and then a variety of Bonnington expeditions ... However nothing in that history is as wacky and quirky as the 1933 solo attempt to fly to, and climb Mount Everest. Read about Maurice Wilson and this solo attempt in a Climbing magazine article entitled "Wing and a Prayer."

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE FULL ARTICLE.

Serious Avalanche In France

Last week there were four fatalities in an avalanche involving a guided party. There are important trends and lessons to be considered here.

CLICK HERE TO READ THE ARTICLE.

Blast From the Past

Mark and Brochu on the Kahiltna glacier on the first, of many trips to Denali. Little did we know that one of our members - Dan - was unfit, poorly socialized, and definitely not up for the climb we had planned. Little did we know that our stove would fail. Little did we know that our cache would be raided. Little did we know that Ray Genet would not sell us a spare stove.

HOWEVER, little did we know that Mark and I would become life-long friends! (AS ALWAYS CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO ENLARGE THE PHOTOGRAPH.)

COLD THISTLE

Happenstance brought me to this fantastic blog. Bookmark it now! This is a serious climber, a serious blogger, and a serious historian ... Right up my alley. For starters read the article on "Light is Right," then try his article on "Climbing Packs."

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE COLD THISTLE BLOG.

North Face of the Matterhorn

A great little video of a summer climb of this classic route.

Climbing the Matterhorn North Face, Capexpe 1999 from Capexpe on Vimeo.

Lou Dawson and Alpine Touring

The history of, and the case for, randonnee skiing.

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE ARTICLE.

Nordic World Cup Skating Technique

Watch some of the world's best sprinters take a challenging corner with high speed skating strides. For those that are in the know, this is the infamous "Corner of Doom" on the Dusseldorf course. Once the individuals - prologue - are done, then the sprint heats with a dozen racers set up massive wipe-outs on this corner.

Fantastic snow in the Adirondacks

Betsy and I took out a group for some training for the upcoming Lake Placid Loppet. The skiing on the Ladies Five was awesome. Although the main storm path missed us, we still got a foot of new snow ... Should be a good weekend for the Keene Valley Mountainfest.

Rising Sea Level

Most people link the rising of our sea level to the melting of large continental ice masses, however a recent study suggests that it has a great deal to do with the melting of small alpine glaciers that we are climbing and skiing on.

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE ARTICLE.

Eiger Nordwand

This interesting article entitled, "Blank Check," was published in Climbing magazine several years ago. It was written by Jonny Copp and is a worthy addition to the voluminous body of Eiger literature. As a related aside I would point the reader to Krakauer's "Eiger Dreams," which is my favorite of the genre.

CLICK ON THIS LINK TO ACCESS THE ARTICLE.

Skiing 100 Years Ago

These three key figures made critically important contributions to the history of skiing in 1911. Nansen who had previously skied across Greenland, came on a trip to America and among other things made the first ski ascent of Whiteface. Amundsen skied to the South Pole ahead of the ill-fated Scott expedition. And finally, Kurz made the first traverse of the Haute Route on skis from Chamonix to Zermatt.

2011 Ouray I've Festival

Josh Wharton wins the Ouray Ice Fest 2011 from chris Alstrin on Vimeo.

Angels of Mount Blanc

An interesting article on thePeloton de Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne (PGHM), the folks responsible for rescues in this corner of the Haute Savoie


CLICK ON THIS LINK TO ACCESS THE ARTICLE FROM CLIMBING MAGAZINE.

Alpe Cermis ... Lady of the Day

Therese Johaug motored up the final vicious climb on the Tour de Ski, which was captured so well in this cartoon. This fantastic performance, where she stormed from fifth place to the second step on the podium was worth 100,000 Swiss francs.

Adirondack Ice Climbing

Carter and I managed a quick couple of laps on "Bouncer" shortly before dark. We are trying to get out one or twice a week to be ready for the Matterhorn in March. Ten days after the thaw the Cascade Pass routes are in fine shape.

A Pre-Haute Route Must Read

It is available used from Amazon.com for under $10. Highly readable, and of course the illustrations are eye-popping. Even if you have a guide leading the way it certainly helps to be well informed.