Yale Returns Artifacts To Peru

CLICK HERE TO READ THE ARTICLE.

WILL GADD: how not to suck

A follow up rant to his recent essay, "Ice climbing is not like rock climbing." This is another important message to all ice climbers. Most people have put their tools away for the season (we haven't yet), so please re-read it before each new season.

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE BLOG ARTICLE.

Avalanche Airbag Review

CLICK HERE TONREAD THE REVIEW ON THE STRAIGHT CHUTER BLOG.

Home in the Adirondacks

It is good to be back, however it is still Winter up here. We had a wonderful sunny day today with the temperatures reaching the low 40s ... The ski hill was awesome. Of course, Selden is not looking forward to the 14 inches of snow that is forecast for Friday! Gary will be up Saturday for some ice climbing.

Video Trailer: 2011 Red Bull Nordix Race

Some of the best wold cup racers participating in a hybrid event that is part ski cross and part X games.

Hock Alpine Mug Shots

Lighting a prayer candle at the chapel at 10,000 feet at Gornergrat, on the Gornergrat train leaving Zermatt, enjoying the Gornergrat views, and leaving the tram for the Petite Aiguile Verte.

CHAMONIX ... different strokes for different folks

A tourist heaven, piste delight, classic routes, summit of your alpine dreams, or just a training ground for super-alpinists to work out and log some mileage.

CLICK ON THE LINK TO ACCESS COLIN HALEY'S BLOG AS HE TUNES UP FOR THE UPCOMING ALASKAN SEASON BY RUNNING UP STUFF IN CHAM.

Spring Is Coming To The Alps

Cunningham Couloir on the Midi

Do you remember my friend of a friend from Tahoe - Kris - we had a beer with him on the first night at the Bar Nationale in Chamonix? The guy that gave us the tip about the Col de Belvedere Tour? The guy who was on the tram up the Aiguille du Midi on the firat nice day?

Well I got a tweet last night from Teton Gravity Research, they are clearly hitting their stride, and conditions are clearly stabilizing. Watch this short video as they do a free hanging rap into a steep couloir on the north face of the Aiguille du Midi. They still have another three weeks left, it will be interesting to see which steep chutes these guys tackle.

Good luck to Kris and Rylan.

Cunningham Couloir from kris thomas on Vimeo.

Selden's view of the trip!

On my last day, I found this heart stomped out along the ski trail at 10,000 feet on the way to Gornergrat (just visible in the top of the picture). I sent it to Selden to let her know I was heading home safe and sound.


CLICK ON THIS LINK TO ACCESS HER BLOG ENTRY ABOUT OUR SKI MOUNTAINEERING TRIP.

ABS ... The big difference between backcountry skiing in the alps and north america

In Europe these inflatable air bag systems, built into day packs, which keep skiers on top of an avalanche are quite common. In the United States almost non-existent. Check the data and read some of the field reports ... Pretty convincing!

CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO ENLARGE IT FOR EASY VIEWING.

Video: traverse of Cochues and Belvedere

I think this will grab the attention of all those recently returned from the Alps. The video was shot in the past few days and just broadcast on the French mountain TV show yesterday. The original col that the ski mountaineers access is the one that Stegs, Harry, Dick, and Dave used on their La Buet tour. The ski mountaineers in the video then traverse the Aguille Cochues, which I did with Larry in June 2008, and they end by dropping off the backside of the Col du Belvedere where Carter toured to ten days ago.

This Couloir On The Aiguille Verte Was Skied On Our Last Days In The Alps

There are still superb winter routes to be done in the 'dacks

Gary did the North Face of Gothics this past weekend (enclosed picture). Yesterday Carter did a bunch of ice routes in the Sisters area of Cascade Pass. I had a glorious skate workout on the Olympic trails. And Dave tells me that any of the north facing glades - in and around campus - have amazing skiing. So do not put away the winter gear yet, come on up to the Fossil cabin.

Continued snow instability in the Alps

In addition to the times last week that Carter, Frank, Edward, and William felt uneasy about snow conditions, also know that a large avalanche killed four yesterday in Switzerland, and the national avalanche forecast continues to put the threat level at 3 ... Considerable avalanche danger.

A Bit Of History

CLICK ON THIS LINK TO READ THE ALPINE JOURNAL TRIBUTE TO DOUGAL HASTON.

Mallory, Irvine, and Everest

While in the alps I listened (again) to PATHS OF GLORY, the historical fiction about the 1920 attempts on Mount Everest. Last evening on my return, I got an email that said, the National Geographic documentary "The Wildest Dream" was available on Netflix. Fantastic viewing ... The pictures are of their small tent at 27,000+ feet, and Odell who was the last to see them going strong just 600 feet below the summit.

Video: Bonington talking about the Freney Pillar First Ascent

1789_Frêney Bonington from TVMountain on Vimeo.

North face of Gothics is in!

Watch this short video from last weekend of a climb up the North Face and a ski down the True North slide ... superb looking

Video:backcountry skiing in South America (episode 2)

On The Road with Solitaire Episode 2: In the Cradle of the Cordillera from Sweetgrass Productions on Vimeo.

A few more shots from the alps

Packing and unpacking. The street scene in Chamonix. The party ahead of us on the Petite Aiguille Verte on the first day. And some climbers rapping into the north side of the Midi to do a
mixed route. I already miss it all.

Manhattan and heading to the 'dacks

I had some camp and school appointments and in between I took a quick peak on an art/research exhibit at the New York Public Library. The show was entitled: Radioactive: Pierre-Marie Curie love and fallout. Oh, and the missing ski bag is on it's way to Lake Placid via FedEx ... Yahoo!

Ski Mountaineering in the Alps

Some more pictures from our trip ... First the Argentiere glacier, second and third the upper part of the Vallee Blanche, as well as the fourth and fifth photographs are descending from the Aiguille du Midi.

Piste

We went to the Alps for the ski mountaineering, however we did get a few fantastic days on the groomers.

Moon setting behind the frontier ridge

So long Zermatt.

Train to Geneva

Clean shaven already!

Here's A Man Ready For Spring!

While some Fossils travel to extend the winter ski and climbing season, El Presidente is saying his prayers for Spring to arrive ... This is obviously a guy who is sick of blowing snow.

More From Zermatt

We leave for Geneva in about ten hours. On my final ski your today I hot this picture of the Weisshorn, a peak I have always wanted to climb.

ANOTHER BLAST FROM THE PAST

I did this spectacular tour with Gary, Susie, and Ben which visits the Breithorn, as well as Castor and Pollux. Being cautious Americans we skied it roped up, which added to the challenge. Of course the visibility was very poor, let's just say that Susie doesn't talk about this classic tour too often.

Zermatt Day #13

Things did nit go the way I hoped or planned, still we had some great mountain days. I skinned up over 11,000' (not in Lewy's class but still significant). We made some good turns. We saw some amazing scenery, ate some great meals, and most importantly spent time with friends.

Ice Climbing: a must read and watch

FLATOUT THE BEST ADVICE ABOUT ICE CLIMBING I HAVE EVER READ. ANY CLIMBER MAKING A TRANSITION FROM ROCK TO ICE CLIMBING MUST READ THIS.

CLICK TO READ WILL GADD'S ARTICLE.

Chamonix to Zermatt the Unplanned Way

What follow's is Dick's unbiased account: 

Friday 3/11. Arrive in G 7;25 and in Argen by9:30. 
Bought baguettes and pastries at boulangerie and cafe outside in sun at Le Dahu. 
Change into ski gear in back room of La Couronne, and at Gran Montet by 10:30. Hadn't made dinner reservation so ate at The Office. Good beer, terrible burgers and drunk young Aussies.
Lefty had arrived noon with lost skis. Met Hock in Cham at six. Walked around and had beers outside. Dumb idea as it was cold and then had missed last bus until 10:30 as well last train. Lucky to get cab back to Arg. 

Sat 12. Ski Gran Montet again after Lefty locates skis in bar storeroom. Good dry snow on moguls off piste.  Baguettes for lunch again at Lognan "bagel" place. Dinner at La Flambe excellent. Passed on skinning with Hock and Carter. 

Sun 13. Met Geoffroy at 9 instead of scheduled 7:30. By time he'd passed out avi gear and we got to Gran Montet it was after 10. Summit tram closed due to high wind. So we start skinning at Lognan. Easy pitch but Stegs has trouble from start. Bad snow and high wind along Argentierre glacier. G had us abandon because it was taking too long. Disappointing, and even more so when he  said that we could not do HR. But as a group we agreed w/out hesitation not to leave Stegs behind. DPhi "in the bonds" thing.  We later learned that no one successfully completed HOUR I'm entire time we were there. Dinner at Le Dahu w Hock and Carter. 

Mon. 14. Tram up to Aguille de Midi. Crampons on and roped down the knife edge. Ski short way and skin long climb over to fresh 30 cm untracked off of the typical Vallee Blanche route.  Great day in perfect sunshine. Took a lot too long, so G had us go ahead behind Italian guide with small group on Mer de Glace so that we wouldn't miss last train at 4:30. Lefty and I met guide (Pete, guide school classmate of G's) on lift to train down (after climbing 356 steps) who was only second American guide. Stegs did make train (and counted the stairs up from the glacier.  Dinner again at La Flambe. 

Tues 15. Left La Couronne for short bus up to Le Tour lifts in a.m. without Stegs. 2 lifts up to about 2000 metres and then on skins to steep couloir with boots at end. Weather sunny at that point but wind picking up.  Ski over to entrance to Couloir and belay on skis down steep rocky short entrance on to long left traverse. G had lefty follow me without skis but too icy. Murph then belayed on skis but fell after releasing from belay. Lost 50 metres and started to lose energy and fall behind. Another big climb on skins and weather closed in and got extremely windy.  Estimated 100 kph. G had us on boots at last steep pitch with very bad steps. After top ridge could hardly see in blowing snow and stinging ice.  Got to cirque at top and G had us dig cave in to windpacked snow. Murph far behind at bottom of climb and G left to find him. Rejoined us at around 7 and G said we'd ski in dark to Trient hut. Got warmer clothes on in cave.  Skins off and roped up for descent into plain but as slope steepened G was unhappy with progress and put me on rope, apparently I'm event fell into crevasse, with others skiing behind.  Unaware that H lost a pole in a fall while roped, to which G replies "not my problem" when told by H.  Long slog across glacial plain to Trient jut.  Got to last few meters below hut. Hutkeeper, Olivier met us and led us up short climb.  All had various levels of exhaustion. Natalie made tea, soup and macaroni with meat stew. 
Magnificent reception at hut. In two days there we were only patrons of hut that sleeps 110. Began to dawn on us that our HR assault. was not propitious. 

Weds 16. With Murph's frostbite, lingering fatigue, and lack of will plus little visibility, so we did not do out and back route planned. Went over equipment in a.m. by discussing G's pack. Great lunch cooked by Olivier.  Duck salad, pork medallions and creme caramel.   In p.m. avi training, snow shelter building and using skis and pack for evacuation sled, while M slept. 

Thursday 17. After 7:30 breakfast, departed hut. Harry able to get old pole to use to replace one he lost on roped descent. G gave M warm glove for use, since M had lost it in wind Tuesday night. Skins off from hut and good new powder to short very steep unroped climb on boots.  Not good steps. Long descent on increasingly wet new snow down to Champex. There by 11 to meet cab at 12. Ate the sausage cheese and bread I'd carried. Back I'm Arg showered and went to Cham for a few hours of walking, sports store shopping and coffee/beers.  Bread and cheese and then Pizza from Stone bar, 5 bottles of Gamay and 1 of Bourdeau in hotel common room.   

Friday 18. Flegere lifts. Short descent to long climb up steep col after traverse to right. Booted up last pitch. Ski great untracked to right traverse and lunch in bright sun. Long easy climb to long descent ending on below tree line trail following stream with water, rocks and roots and scrub down to Le Buet east of Arg near Swiss border. Cold demiliters of 1664 beer in sun outside of hotel waiting for Stegs. Train with cog sections back to Arg. Good day. Great dinner at Chez Anais arranged by Murph who had taken day off. 

Saturday 19. Had rained all night, turning to snow before 7 a.m.  Met G at Gran Montet. Trams to top. Windy and cold. Only Lefty and I followed G across right traverse towards Arg glacier. Nice new tracks off piste. Second run up Bronard gondola and search for untracked to right but snow heavy and cut up. Met others after second gondola run. Took chair up left side and ski down to restaurant for cake soup coffee in fog and snow that closed I'm and made it nearly impossible to find restaurant. Good ski down off piste after sky cleared completely. Dinner at Le Dahu. 

Sunday 20. Lefty Harry and I go with G after we all meet at 8:30 at Gran Montet and long wait for trams across Arg Glacier.  Nice snow down to arg glacier and view of Argentiere hut off to right. Bear off of skin track that leads to Arg hut and climb Col du Chardonet. Harry loses left ski on first steep kick turn and worse I take skis off and turn on boots. Better turning after that, but many turns. Col flattens out and straight track nearly to final pitch. But in order to get back for 4:05 train we stop at 1:10 after 2:30 of climbing. Lunch in blazing sun. Ski untracked down Chardonet and snow transitions from powder to heavy untracked as slope steepens. I finally fall pleasing everyone. Harry skis over our lines despite G telling him to "ski your own way."
Back to hotel to gather gear and clothing and down to station in plenty of time. Train back past Le Buet to Valorcene (at la frontierre) and change to Swiss train, down canyon to Champagny. Change to train east to Visp and then again to cog rr up to Zermatt.  Arrived about 7:50, which was lucky since baggage storage closed at 8, and attendant had no interest in working to find our bags. Hock had met us on arrival and we found all of our bags down a level.  Walked up through town to Hotel Weisshorn. Nice small rooms with terraces on the north side looking back at the church and town. Couldn't get table for 7 at Whymper tavern so walked back up to eat at restaurant adjacent to hotel. Lots of raclette,  rosti and Cardinal beers. 

Monday 21.  Great Swiss breakfast at hotel. Met Hock at Gornergrat train.  Ascended to Gornergrat at 3100 m. Took pix of Matterhorn, Monta Rosa, Gornergrat glacier, and Hock and Murph reconfirming their faith and confessing their sins in mountaintop chapel.  Cafe at 3100 Hotel in bright sun.   Ski down to Riffelberg and Riffelalp but lost track of Hock. Cafe again at small restaurant next to piste. Ski down wooded trail with bare spots to top of town. Back to Weisshorn at 12:45. Lunch at Walliserkanne. Bought chocolates. Retrieved bags and walk to station for 3:39 to Visp and then direct to Geneve Aeroport station. Find hotel van stop and van to NH hotel by 8:00. Have the bottle of Medoc given us by G in room. Dinner at hotel restaurant. 

Tuesday 22. First shuttle at 5:50 too late for Lefty. We take it to airport and are checked in with an hour to spare. All in one piece even if some serious frostbite. 

Coda about Geoffroy Arvis. Great guy. Colonel in Gendarmerie left to become guide rather than take promotion to desk in Paris. Lives hour north of Chamonix. Grew up in Bourgogne near town of Chablis. Son of general practice physician. Master of uphill kick turns and extremely fit. Married with 2 girls, 4 and 1.  Can be stern when he thinks barking will motivate or when, to quote him, saving our lives. But also, as he observed, patient with Bob and not with me. Next trip we engage him directly.  

QUOTE OF THE WEEK

Sitting in the Hotel Bahnhof reading, which - because of the Biner family - has a small but wonderful collection of English mountain books. You will have to click on the photograph to enlarge it so that you can read it, but "I Hold The Heights" is quite a wonderful poem I found it in an old anthology called THE MOUNTAINEER's COMPANION. Enjoy.

BLAST FROM THE PAST

During today's beautiful but relaxed ski I couldn't help but remember routes done years ago: Monte Rosa, Dent d'Herens, Stockhorn, Castor, Mettlehorn, as well as the Triftigrat on the Breithorn and the Welzenbach on the Liskamm (pictured below). Of course, I also remember the ones that got away: south face of Zinal, and the Hornli as well as north face of the Matterhorn.

More from Zermatt Day #11

The fantastic weather continues, and we had a light day skiing down from Gornergrat at 3100 meters. Here you see Dick in front of Monta Rosa, the observatory, Dave-Dick-Murph in front of the Matterhorn, and Dave in front of the Weisshorn.

Zermatt Day #11

The Union guys got to Zermatt last night. Today they are skiing the morning at Gornergrat, walking around town, souvenir shopping and heading to Geneva. Carter and the Kenney boys are touring to Castor and Pollux and then heading to the Monta Rosa Hut.

Cold Thistle Blog Entry

A sobering review of the seriousness of skiing in Chamonix. It includes a description of an avalanche on the Petite Aiguille Verte in February ... We had dinner with the sobered party a couple of days ago in the Cosmique Hut.

CLICK HERE TO READ THIS BLOG ENTRY.

Cervin-Cervino-Matterhorn

Final pictures from day #10. it is hard to pick out one highlight: the amazing lunch in Breuil, the view of the hornligrat and North Face, as well as all the rugged peaks on the Italian side.