Chamonix 2011

(Double click on the video and watch it a full screen.)

Zermatt 2011

Why Mountains Matter

An engaging, tightly worded essay, which summarizes all the reasons why mountains have impacted mankind. This Mountain Nerd website tends to be more academic than most of what I follow, but there are some gems here well worth reading by a thoughtful climber.

CLICK HERE TO READ THIS WONDERFUL SHORT ESSAY.

Gateway to the Alps ... Lake Geneva

EVEN AFTER MULTIPLE TRIPS TO THE FRENCH AND SWISS ALPS OVER 30+ YEARS, I HAD NO IDEA THAT THIS AREA WAS A HOTBED OF CULTURE AND LITERARY ACTIVITY IN THE EARLY 1800s. CLICK HERE TO READ THE TRAVEL PIECE IN THE NEW YORK TIMES.

Yoga Improves Athletic Performance

CLICK HERE FOR THIS INTERESTING ARTICLE.

Dougal Haston: the philosophy of risk by Jeff Connor

READ THIS BRUTALLY FRANK REVIEW AT THE CALM AND FEARLESS BLOG.

Max VO2 testing for Kikkan, Andy, and Simi

Watch the top USST nordic athletes being tested in Park City, and they literally ski until they drop. (Double click on the video to enlarge it.)

Dougal Haston's Greatest Climbs

Dane and the best gear of 2010-2011

I MET THIS GUY WHILE STUCK IN THE COSMIQUE HUT, HE KNOWS GEAR, CLICK ON THIS LINK TO READ HIS LIST ON THE COLD THISTLE BLOG.

Yosemite Triple Play ... I've done two of these

Triple Play (Fairview Dome, Tenaya Peak, 1/8th Dome) from Mark Smiley on Vimeo.

Rock Climbing Sites Closed For Nesting Falcons

CLICK HERE TO READ ABOUT THE CURRENT ADIRONDACK CLOSURES.

Climbing Frozen Waterfalls at the Snout of the Argentiere Glacier

William Sim - Ice Climbing from Bjarne Sahlen on Vimeo.

CALCULATED RISK by Dougal Haston

(Click on the image to enlarge the text.)

Beautiful Adirondack Spring Day

The fields have dried out enough, so that we can finally let the horse herd out in the NCS pasture. With Wednesday's good weather I headed out to the yurt boulder for an hour workout late in the day. (I did remember to do a preventative tape job for my tendinitis.)

At the feet of the Adirondack Masters!

CLICK HERE TO ENJOY THIS SHORT ARTICLE FROM THE ADIRONDACK ALMANACK, ABOUT CLIMBING ON CHAPEL POND SLABS.THE AUTHOR TALKS ABOT TWO CLASSIC ROUTES ONE PUT UP BY JOHN CASE AND THE OTHER BY FRITZ WIESSNER.

Swedish Winter Sports Ski Research Centre

These people are serious about double poling! A must watch video for any nordic racer, at any level.

Video: Solitaire (Episode IV)

This monthly update about the making of a South American ski mountaineering video continues, as the crew lands in Las Lenas, Argentina.

On the Road with Solitaire Episode IV: Low Tide from Sweetgrass Productions on Vimeo.

Ski Rando Race Gear

Although I am not really a randonee racer, this high performance racer gear has some great concepts to inform our alpine touring trips. Well worth watching to pick up some tips and tricks for next season.

What are you doing Memorial Day Weekend?

This picture was from last year at Mammoth Ski Area, and they have even more snow this year. I will be writing my graduation speech, however I may be out in late June to do some skiing.

CLICK HERE TO READ AN LA TIMES ARTICLE ON SPRING SKIING IN CALIFORNIA.

For The Climber That Has Everything

Looking for a birthday, Christmas, or Father's Day present ... Maybe a stone nude calendar is just the thing. (Click on the image to enlarge the photograph.)

CLICK HERE TO CHECK OUT PAST CALENDARS AND PLACE AN ORDER.

If you remember these clearly you are a Fossil

Coffee maker for on the trail, big wall, or ski tour

It looks like a French press but is better. Of course a simple cup of tea with sweetened condensed milk is the way to go, however if you really are addicted to coffee, this looks like the way to go. A perfect Father's Day gift for El Presidente, Doctor D, or the Silver Fox.

http://www.offpistemag.com/

136th Running of the Preakness

It was a spectacular day, and with 110,000 fans I was pretty darn glad to be sitting under the big party tent with the owners. Being plyed all afternoon with drinks, and food, not to mention winning $100, made for a memorable day. George (NCS '78) was pretty pleased with his horse Astrology who ran a fine race and finished third.

Hard New Route In Alaska

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS COMPLETE DETAILS.

Tahoe Guys In Chamonix

Cunningham Couloir from kris thomas on Vimeo.

Remixed and edited, this is a different video version of their ski down the Cunningham Couloir on the Aiguille du Midi. They skied this steep classic in March 2011. Good job Kris and Rylan.

Mountains and Literature

CLICK HERE TO READ THIS BREEZY CHATTY ESSAY FROM THE GUARDIAN ... FROM RUM DOODLE TO HAN-SHAN AND DRACULA.

Adam Ondra climbing hard

As we ease into the rock climbing season, get your enthusiasm jazzed up by take a look at the cutting edge of the sport ... compliments of Black Diamond.

BD athlete Adam Ondra onsights Mind Control (8c+), Oliana, Spain from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Adirondack Guides: then and now

Emilie Drinkwater from Cloudsplitter Guides writes a lively short essay about guiding which incorporates pictures and quotes from the 19th century practitioners, interspersed with tales from her work as a modern day guide.

CLICK ON THIS LINK TO ACCESS THE OUTDOOR RESEARCH BLOG.

3-D video of the Matterhorn area of Zermatt

Walliser Alpen 3D / Valais 3D from 3D RealityMaps on Vimeo.

After 20 Years Jeff Lowe's Pack Recovered From The Eiger

Jeff Lowe's Pack Retrieved from Eiger North Face from Jeff Lowe on Vimeo.

A Bit Of Climbing History ... Marshall and Smith

CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO ENLARGE THE PHOTOGRAPH.

Getting in Shape on a Rainy Day

Early AM or late PM when there is no one around, I head over to the NCS climbing wall for a bouldering endurance workout. We have a strict no bouldering alone rule for students, so I try to fly under the radar with these workouts. (The music is from THE ENGLISH PATIENT.)

More 1981 AAJ ... skiing Mustagh ata

Another great Ned Gillete, Galen Rowell, and Jan Reynlds expedition. (Notice the camel carrying the quiver of skis in the middle.) Many years later this expedition was the inspiration for the dynafit skis I am using. Oh, and know that they did this trip on the same pair of Ramer bindings I am still using on my "shorties."

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THIS INTERESTING ARTICLE.

Tahoe Guys in the Alps

A short video of Kris and Rylan skiing powder in Courmayeur, on the day we were all skiing in the Aiguilles Rouges.

Pow at Courmayeur, IT from kris thomas on Vimeo.

Dougal Haston: nightshift in zero

In 1957 Patey, MacInnes, and Nicol climbed the notorious Zero Gully on Ben Nevis. The scene of many epics and at least three fatalities, the climb had to wait three years before it's second ascent. Dougal, Robin Smith, and Andy Wightman made the second ascent in fine style, except for the fact that no one remembered to bring ropes. As the CIC hut was full of English climbers - Sassenach invaders - it was considered good form to pinch one of theirs. Dougal figured that as long as they slept late, and climbed into the dark, they would never have to explain themselves. His interesting account of the climb ended with these words:

"It was all hell let loose up there. So we quickly beetled off down Four Gully in the dim light of approaching dawn to face court-martial for rope-thieving by the English dayshift."

1981 AAJ Classic ... Karakorum Haute Route

No huts, beds, blankets, or showers, no fine meals and wine ... To my knowledge this 285 mile HAUTE ROUTE has not been repeated.

CLICK HERE TO READ THIS ESSAY BY NED GILLETTE.

Third Classing On the NCS Crag

Laps on the NCS Crag

The rope is anchored and ready to go for my soloist, ONE TASTE (5 5) was a bit wet but lots of fun. After multiple trips, I finished off with several third class laps of BURIED TREASURE (5.2). A nice morning outing before the rain moved in.

The Climbing Historian

While my Fossil buddies, and especially Lewy, used to affectionately call me The Historian, because I read so much climbing literature, Elizabeth Hawley is the REAL deal. This 87 year old journalist has lived in Nepal since 1960, and she is the ultimate authority on all things related to Himalayan climbing.

CLICK HERE TO READ THE REUTERS ARTICLE ON THE AMAZING GAL.

More Footage From Jeff Lowe's Movie In The Making

Jeff Lowe directs Josh Wharton & Daniel Mader climbing sections of Metanoia on the Eiger North Face from Jeff Lowe on Vimeo.

Stunning footage from the helicopter of Josh Wharton and Daniel Mader climbing sections of Jeff Lowe's unrepeated route "Metanoia" on the North Face.

Colin Haley

A short National Geographic video, which talks about how style is more important than height these days in mountaineering. A quite good visual summary of where the cutting-edge is in alpinism.

VIDEO: ski tibet

Ski Tibet Trailer from Mark Fisher on Vimeo.

Cholatse: Ueli Steck's Warm Up Climb

BLAST FROM THE PAST

The AAC library had this great Washburn photograph on their website as well as a nice recap of the West Rib first ascent ... It brought back strong memories of my mid-70s attempt. CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO ENLARGE THE PHOTOGRAPH.

Light Is Right

CAMP technical equipment has an important essay on their blog ... Part philosophy, part how to, and part sales pitch. Nevertheless, well worth reading.

CLICK HERE TO READ THE ESSAY.

Awesome Summit Pack

Before and after photos of the 11 ounce VERTO 26 by North Face. If you are going fast and light this looks and feels like the ticket. I am geared up for pre-dinner laps on the NCS crag, and in the VERTO are: gloves, wind jacket, helmet, 11mm rope, soloist, harness, light rack, trekking poles, and a water bottle. At $65 it's a steal, and after you stuff it into the pocket pouch, it makes a great pillow! (If this had been winter there would have been additional space for crampons, a belay jacket, and two ice tools.)

Ueli Steck ... The back story

This short video shows Ueli training in the Khumbu Valley before even doing a warm up climb. Obviously a finely tuned Swiss machine, but a good tactical planning and organization seem to be a big part of his 8000 meter success ... On to Everest.

Himalaya Speed PART 1: Khumbu Training from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.

Quote of the week

Almost 35 years ago our stove blew up in the vicinity of campsite 5 and ended our attempt on the West Rib of Denali. We were already totally bummed, as Don whimped out, and we had to abandon the Cassin Ridge which had been our goal.

Five years earlier than that, before I had ever led a pitch of ice, I was sitting in the basement of the Union College Library when I read the following quote which kindled a deep desire that fueled three Alaskan adventures:

"This method of approaching McKinley directly from the south is so continually steep and difficult, and so exposed to the full force of the southwesterly storms that none but the most uniformly experienced and powerful team of climbers should even think of attempting it. But I mention it here in conclusion because to omit it would be to sidestep the greatest remaining pioneer ascent in North America.” – Bradford Washburn fromMountain World, 1956/57, page 81.

Not Set In Stone But ...

CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO ENLARGE THE PHOTOGRAPHS.

Ueli Tags Cho Oyu

CLICK HERE TO READ ABOUT HIS SECOND 8000M peak in 18 days.

Video: Tuckerman's Ravine

Last week I stashed the skis away, however from looking at this short video it might have been premature ... anyone up for this Eastern rite of passage?

Spring Bouldering In The Sierras

VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Kevin Jorgeson bouldering at the Buttermilks from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Watching this video of bouldering in the Buttermilks reminded me that this was the first Spring in 6-7 years that I did not spend skiing and climbing outside of Bishop during my March vacation. The Alps were a special treat however it is hard to beat climbing in Owens River Gorge, bouldering at the Buttermilks and Happy Boulders, all while getting some long Nordic tours in as well.

More About Dougal Haston

Two years his senior, Robin Smith had much to do with Dougal's quick rise in mountaineering circles. For instance, at a very early stage in Dougal's apprenticeship he put in a solid week in Wales where Robin lead him up both Cemetery Gates and Cenotaph Corner (seventh ascent), both of which had a fierce reputation. In that week they managed to also knock off a host of other test pieces: Bellevue Bastion, Scars Climb, Rowan tree slabs, Ivy Sepulchre, Lot's Wife, and Brant Direct.

Video: A Nomad's Life

The trailer for a documentary about a nomadic family herding yaks in Eastern Tibet, a way of life thousands of years old, that is brushing up with modernity.

Video: Lhotse Ski Expedition

FINAL TNF Lhotse Ski Expedition Dispatch ONE 5.4.11 from Camp 4 Collective on Vimeo.

Spring Cleaning at the Fossil Cabin

Now that the snow has melted, and the ground firmed up, it is time to get the cabin ready for summer guests ... Store skis and poles in the shed, up end the out house which blew down in a vicious wind storm last month, get some more firewood, have Gary install the drying rack, have Selden build the benches for the sauna, and of course re-stock the bar now that the alcohol will not freeze.

Hard Rock In The Alps

Hardest of the Alps from story.teller on Vimeo.

Following in the footsteps of Manolo, Huber, and Kammerlander two alpinists to quick repeats of some of the hardest limestone routes in the Alps ... Beautiful scenery and spectacular climbing.

Guiding in the Andes

In 1986 I was planning to take a group of middle schoolers climbing in Peru. Our plan was to spend time in the Pisco and Ishinca valleys. Unfortunately, three months before our trip was to leave the Sendero Luminoso spilled over the Andean continental divide and expanded their theater of operations into the Cordillera Blanca. We changed our itinerary and spent the summer climbing in Ecuador instead ... Imbabura, skiing on the flanks of Cayambe, Pichincha, Ruminahui, a failed attempt on Cotopaxi, and finally Tungurahua. As you can see from this recent photograph ... Conditions on Tungurahua have changed a bit!

What Makes Good Climbing Literature?

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS PAUL HERSEY'S SHORT ESSAY.

A Bit Of History: Ned Gillette

As I am part-way through his EVERST GRAND CIRCLE I decided to do a little background research on Ned Gilette. The guy got around! In particular, I am amazed at the number of long distance Nordic ski treks he accomplished in Alaska, Pakistan, Nepal, and Tibet.

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE ARTICLE IN SKIING HERITAGE MAGAZINE.

More History: Ned's skiing and Climbing resume

CLICK ON THE PICTURE TO ENLARGE THE IMAGE.

Summer 2012?

There is an intriguing coffee table guidebook out called CHILE-ARGENTINA: Handbook of Ski Mountaineering in the Andes. Browsing through the book's website certainly whet my appetite. I urge you to take a look at the interactive map, and see what you think ... Decent weather, reasonable approaches, August on skis instead of the beach, and easy acclimatization.

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE INTERACTIVE MAP.

Superb Book: The Summits Of Samivel

A famous French illustrator, known for his drawings and watercolors, who lived from 1907-1992. The mountains and alpine sports were his most frequent subject matter. His work often had a humorous touch; he owned a house in Les Contamines, and his ashes were spread over the domes Miage.

More Summits of Samivel

Trans-Sierra Roads

It looks like the road into Tuolumne may not be open for quite awhile ... what is your guess ... Memorial Day? Mid-June? Fourth of July?

Not much to do with alpinism but ...

Pretty exciting, Jon has a real job, that also pays real benefits! As a journalist he writes for a small weekly in Keene Valley, and then edits regional papers in Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont through the corporate office. Here he is covering New York State Governor Andrew Cuomo, who has just declared Essex County a disaster area because of the flooding.

Another Alta Memory

After some great powder days, it was time to rest the legs, and cruise the easy groomers. Thanks to all the folks - especially Mimi, Cassie, and Marcus - at the Alta Lodge who made our stay so wonderful.

A Bit Of History ... John Gill

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THIS HISTORICALLY IMPORTANT ESSAY.

Hock Skiing On His Climbing Boots And AT Skis

After the powder day at Alta, it was time for some sun, and the groomers. Lewy's old Koflach double boots, silvretta 500 bindings, and Dynafit Mustagh Ata Superlights were a pretty nice setup.

The Jackson-Shea Route On Les Droites

Spring has come to the Adirondacks

I was only in Manhattan for four days, however there was an incredible transformation while I was gone ... The trees have leafed out, bulbs pushing up, green grass, and no patches of snow visible anywhere ... YAHOO! Lucy took this picture of sunrise on another beautiful Spring day. (It was also my first day of bouldering, doing laps of "Buried Treasure" up at the NCS crag.)

PATROUILLE DES GLACIERS ... any interest?

CLICK HERE TO READ A SHORT SUMMARY OF THE RACE.

Loretan Dies In Guiding Accident

READ THE OBITUARY OF THIS FAMOUS SWISS CLIMBER.