100 Years of Scottish Mountaineering (part 1 of 6)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RayznZfgDp8 



Chomping at the bit for ski season

However, it was another good training week: 17 training hours, 4800' vertical ascent, 133k (93 exercise bike, 40k run), 2 strength and 2 yoga sessions. But, I am ready to transition to a new season.

FYI … another episode just dropped in the 90 pound rucksack podcast

If you listen to podcasts, this series is awesome. It will eventually encompass 18 episodes and a book release. 

I have listened to the first seven episodes of The 90 Pound Rucksack podcast and they are riveting. It's a history of WWII, history of the 10th Mountain, and the history of skiing and climbing in America, all rolled into one. It is co-sponsored by the American Alpine Club. Well worth a listen; the production quality is excellent; and it is available on google-Spotify-Apple podcasts.

https://christianbeckwith.com/

Keeping fingers crossed

Maybe if the storm over performs, I'll be able to ski the upper 3-4K of the toll road tomorrow. 

Slapstick, hilarious 14 minute video about Pierra Menta skimo race

Good race footage, humorous cameos with Kilian, and of course, spectacular scenery.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?si=nB5JPh5yja0c3W61&v=IzG3YIM-QLI&feature=youtu.be

Almost November and we are having 60 degree days

Next week temperatures will drop to more seasonable levels, but it has made for good hiking weather.

Some strength training for ski season

https://www.nytimes.com/2023/10/26/well/move/skiing-injuries-workouts.html

First books on loan from AAC Library arrived

I have two novels by Roger Frison-Roche, and North Face In Winter by Toni Hiebler, about his first winter ascent of the 1938 north face route of them Eiger. 

Another AI generated mountain scene

Needless to say, I am looking forward to getting back to the Alps. Selden and I just made reservations for a week in Chamonix next fall for our 40th anniversary.




AAC video: Ice Climbing in a Changing Climate

https://m.youtube.com/watch?si=G_aNuzAi8ioalFco&v=O2Uc4o8y2Ng&feature=youtu.be

Weekend snow did not materialize, however the forecast …

Looking like the next ten days will bring below normal temperatures; so I assume snow making will begin, and if we get precipitation at least some of it should come as snow!

Last week was another good training week: I logged just under 17 hours, 4450' vertical ascent, on 146k (106k exercise bike and 40k run). I also managed two yoga sessions, and one strength session using the Chamonix Mountain Physio model.

History of Mount Van Hoevenberg

To read the remainder of the article, and to get to this fabulous website use the enclosed link.

https://nyskiblog.com/directory/ski-area-history/mount-van-hoevenburg/

BIT OF A BUMMER …

Selden has our car to make a trip to see grandkids, and then do some historical research in southern Connecticut.  So, it looks like I will miss out on an early season ski on Monday, up the Whiteface Toll Road. 

Walter Breeman Performing Arts Center at NCS …

On December second will host the Mountaineer Backcountry Ski Film evening.

Jay Peak Off In The Distance

On the drive towards Jay Mountain Road, where a did a couple of laps with a 15 pound pack for a muscular endurance workout.

Skiing the Catamount Trail in Vermont

https://m.youtube.com/watch?si=ajHc8Al5F_gGuYJm&v=SDWeKa-VKEQ&feature=youtu.be

Lucy gets a shoutout from the Washington Post

Lucy and her Pine Tree Power Campaign are entering the final weeks before the election.

https://www.washingtonpost.com/politics/2023/10/19/maine-ballot-question-with-big-climate-implications/

Women in the White Mountains

Great photos and interesting stories, especially concerning hiking and climbing. Also, some great photos of mountain landscapes by female artists. 

https://www.plymouth.edu/mwm/wp-content/uploads/sites/170/2017/12/Taking_the_Lead_Catalog-FINAL.pdf

So, when will be the first Whiteface Toll Road ski this season?

Great text and video … A Short History Of The Stonemasters

https://www.climbing.com/people/stonemasters/

THE NEXT FIVE YEARS … part 3… tactical considerations

TACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS: Given that we are old geezers, I would argue two old farts, out for a long day in the mountains do not really have much of a margin for error. Spending a full day scrambling a third class route, with maybe a few short pitches as a rope of two, means that a sprained ankle, tweaked knee, or bum shoulder could have serious consequences. After all, what can the u injured geriatric mountaineer really do? So, I have three tactical suggestions to increase our safety factor.

First, in our sunset years, let's go as a rope of three.  Ideally, that rope of three might include someone who could be one-part guide, one-part rope gun, and one-part muscle to carry a heavier pack. As an associated suggestion, could we pay their way, and get Tori, or Larry, or Mickey to do a few routes with us in the Tetons, Chamonix, or the Cordillera Blanca? They get a free trip, in return for 2-3 days with us, and then they arrange for their real partners to meet them. (I believe that Fred Beckey did something like this through his 80s.)

Second, as I have mentioned before in this missive, I believe we need to utilize huts, ski lifts, mules, and a well placed bivy to break these potential mountain routes into bite sized pieces. For instance, I know that I can not do South Teton in a day from the valley. However, turn it into a three day trip … camp in the meadows, climb the peak the next day, then camp in the meadows, and hike out the final day.  I AM SURE I COULD DO THAT, especially if a stud like Larry or Tori carried much of the group gear. Of course, in Europe or Canada its even easier; take the Grand Montet ski lift and hike 90 minutes to the hut in Argentiere and spend the night.  Climb the standard route, and spend another night, then a short hike to the ski lift on the final day.  So, for an associated suggestion; join the American Alpine Club … reduced rates on huts, $5000 in rescue insurance, and $7500 in medical expenses,  it to mention library privileges. 

The third and final tactical suggestion: we all need to spend more time increasing our fitness. Easy for me to say, as - knock on wood - I have had four years of retirement with good health. My knees and one shoulder are crap, but I have basically been able to train uninterrupted. However, you guys know better than me, that could change tomorrow, if my health goes south.  That said, if we are going to have geriatric, big days in the mountains I think we need to build up to a routine of 9-10 hours of exercise a week, aiming at 3-4000' vertical a week, including some flexibility and strength work. Slow and steady; we don't need high intensity exercise at our age; make it fun. Hell, I hate riding an exercise bike, but if I am going to watch a football game, I might as well pedal through the first half!

WE CAN DO THIS.  

(I am not going to get up the 5.9 Irene's Arete ever again, but I can certainly climb Disappointment Peak in the Tetons, by the snow filled Spoon Couloir pictured below.) 

Dealing with shoulder pain

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/12/29/well/move/shoulder-injury-prevention.html

Weather and the seasons are changing

The foliage is well past its prime; chilly and raining mornings the norm, with occasional dustings of snow above 4200'. Likely, I'll be skiing in under a month. A good week of training: just over 17 hours, just over 4500' vertical, on 123k (83k exercise bike, 40k run), additionally 3 yoga and 2 strength sessions.

Performance limits in ultrarunning

https://www.outsideonline.com/health/training-performance/limits-of-ultrarunning-research/

Nordic World Cup Schedule

The season starts for the big boys and girls in just over one month.  This weekend the U.S. team finishes a two week camp, with a couple of rollerski races at Soldier Hollow, and then in early November head to Scandinavia to be on snow. 

American Alpine Club

Well earlier this week I joined the club - I was a member back in the late 1970s and early 1980s - but it seems that in my sunset years I ought to be joining again, and maybe giving something back to the alpine community. That said, as I read the 160+ pages of the members guide, I realize there are some great benefits to joining - not to mention AAJ, Accidents in North American Mountaineering, library privileges, rescue insurance and hut discounts - as well as all the advocacy, policy initiatives, and grants they give out. 

JOIN UP. 

As you can see below, the membership guide also functions as their fiscal report. 

https://www.flipsnack.com/americanalpineclub/guidebook-x.html?p=120&mc_cid=077ebc3a04&mc_eid=86a36fe15d

Nice short outing in between rain showers

ALPINE ROULETTE

A reminder that while climate change creates huge long term issues for civilization in the coming decades, it creates risk assessment issues for your next alpine climb tomorrow. 

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215139

Sunset over Street and Nye tonight



Skinning 2.5 million vertical feet in a year

Hard to imagine anyone trying to break this record.  However, the video has some nice scenery and it gets you psyched for the winter to come, and maybe it motivates you to start checking if your gear is ready to go. 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?si=3zdm2f-sOxzWjCdY&v=nKidiVrT_Uk&feature=youtu.be

The Black Dike on Cannon

when I climbed the Black Dike with Mike Brochu and Michael Franklin eight years after the first ascent, it was still considered a hard test piece then; it ranks as one of my favorite mountain memories, but I can not imagine doing it 50 year later.  Hats off to Bouchard, who must be a real stud at 70!

https://www.climbing.com/news/bouchard-black-dike/

First snow of the season

This morning, on the summit of Whiteface.

BLAST FROM THE PAST … 1967 AAJ article

This important article, by Yvon Chouinard, was also reprinted in his seminal book CLIMBING ICE a decade later. It recounts the first American ascent (which he did with Layton Kor) of the Direct North Face on Les Courtes. To get a sense of how much the sport of ice climbing had changed in the decade after their ascent, consider that a dozen years after they did this ascent - a nobody like me - went up to try the route solo!  Now I did not get up it, backing off at the bergshrund, but I did solo the Sentinelle Rouge a week later. 

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196730500

A great week and a crappy holiday weekend

From Monday through Friday, the warm fall weather continued, and then on Friday evening came the downpour. My training got back on track after the recovery week and I logged just under 15 hours, 112k (84k bike, 27k run, and 4K ergometer), with 4500' vertical ascent. I also managed three yoga and two strength sessions. Even though I am not quite at the halfway point in the training year, I totaled up my data, and I seem to be on track to hit 700 hours and 225,000' vertical … both are target goals. 

(The enclosed illustration is another AI generated image.)

Great video … beautiful chamonix granite

https://youtu.be/iG_VOlgeksM?si=6s7orTUm8MGDL-OZ

Guinness Book revokes Messner’s 8000m record

Seems like bull crap to me!

https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/everest/guinness-revoked-reinhold-messners-8000er-record-that-was-a-huge-mistake/?utm_source=outside&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=onsiteshare

THE NEXT FIVE YEARS … part 2 … some realistic possibilities

Given our age and relative decrepitude, we will be certainly be looking at less technical routes. I suspect this probably means third and fourth class peaks, with the occasional touches of short fifth class pitches.  In reality, we will be looking at the "standard" route, the "voie normale," the "descent" route, or the "mountaineers" route on the peaks cited below. Also given our lack of speed, stamina, and mental/physical reserves, we will be looking to minimize our daily vertical to about 1500'-3000' of ascent. 

To do this, and make these routes, and summits, viable we will look to lifts, huts, pack animals, or a planned bivy to put us in position to complete these routes safely in a day. I think we can agree, that the days of tagging even a non-technical summit like South Teton from the valley trailhead - in a day - are behind us. However, as we March into our mid-seventies, I suspect these outings are likely to be quite adventurous, and at 70+ years of age, will qualify as big days in the mountains  Here are some of the things on my list.  What's on yours?

ALPS

In Zermatt the easiest of the 4000m peaks (Breithorn, Castor, Pollux), hut to hut on Hohbalmen loop with scrambling ascents of Platthorn, and Mettelhorn, multi-day hut to hut on Europaweg, and easy multi-pitch climbs on the Riffelhorn

In Chamonix the Index traverse, Cosmique Arete (enclosed 2008 picture), Point Lachenal Traverse, Petite Aiguille Verte, hut to hut from Courmayeur to Argentiere, easy multi-pitch routes on Les Gaillands 

SIERRAS

Conness "Mountaineers," Tioga Peak, Individual Echo Peaks, Tenaya Peak, 2-3 day hike from Valley floor to Tuolumne Meadows, a single overnight trip from Lundy Lake to Junction campground, descent route on Lone Pine Peak, easiest route on Mt. Sill

TETONS

easy route on South Teton, short and easy 5th class route on Cube Point, Lake Ledges route on Disappointment Peak, east ridge Cloudveil Dome, easy route on The Jaw, Table Mountain, Static Peak, Taylor Mountain, Mount Fryxell

CASCADES

Mt Hood, easiest routes on Three Sisters, Mt Bachelor, 

CORDILLERA BLANCA

Urus, Ishinca, Pisco (using pack animals and huts they are easy but all are 17-18,000')

Messing around with AI image generator

THE NEXT FIVE YEARS … thesis statement

Since late May I have had two delightful trips to the Sierras. Obviously on both trips, the main focus is spending time with Mark (also drinking some whiskey) and reconnecting with his family.  The other high points were backcountry skiing in June, practicing self arrests, standing on top of Lassen, as well as three days at Junction with crampons and ice axe in hand.  I realized that in spite of college football and lacrosse, running marathons and trail races, biathlon, as well as a zillion ski marathons, ever since 1972 my existential self-definition has been as climber-mountaineer-alpinist.

In reflection, these past few years I have gravitated towards being a generic mountain athlete, with much less emphasis on climbing and mountain adventures.  Indeed as I shared with Mark, last year was the first time in decades that I didn't log a single roped pitch. Of course, I have logged quite a few long mountain days, and several "backyard ultra events," where I amass big vert doing mountain laps, assuring  me that I am physically ready for a big mountain trip. But, those are not mountain adventures.

So, why this dearth of big mountain trips, this lack of mountain adventure, in these past few years? Well it is easy to pass it off as just the natural function of age. Yet, I truly believe the urge, the need for adventure is still there. Certainly the issue of partners has been a key problem. My fossil climbing group of yesteryear is basically down to me, Mark, Gary, Deaton, and Danny.  I am the youngest at 71, and although I have crap knees, everyone else has been battling with more serious health issues. Additionally, and not surprisingly, this has caused us all to be suffering from a severe lack of mountain mojo. And what is that you say, well it's that drive, that little voice in your head, at all times of day and night that says: "So when, what, where, and with who will my next mountain adventure happen, and can I really pull it off?

On the flip side, I have numerous college buddies willing to jump on alpine skiing trips to the Rockies or Alps, with nice hotels and restaurant dinners, but no longer any interest in skiing hut to hut. Sure it's fun, it's in the mountains, and I can log lots of uphill skinning vert … but it not a mountain adventure. Additionally, I do have a group of 40-50 something types, who are fall-back mountain partners.  However, families, college tuitions, peak earning years and professional responsibilities all leave them cancelling, and begging off, far too often.  

SO, THE MAIN GOAL FOR THE NEXT FIVE YEARS IS TO BE A CLIMBER AGAIN WITH MY FOSSIL BUDDIES. 

This will be a three part missive, which continues with followup discussions on: What are our realistic, and specific, possibilities for mountain adventures? What tactical concepts will make success possible in those adventure?

Historic 1971 AAJ article on ice climbing

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197129900/Coming-of-Age-Ice-Climbing-Developments-in-North-America

Peak foliage, fantastic weather, wonderful wedding, and a good recovery week

I logged 11.5 hours, with 85k (60k bike and 25k run), 3400' vertical, five yoga and single strength session. Another nice week coming up.

Thinking of rejoining the American Alpine Club

It's been too many years since my membership has lapsed, but I am realizing the benefits are well worth it now: library privileges, rescue insurance, reduced hut fees, not to mention the AAC Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering. 

https://www.rei.com/blog/climb/aac-librarians-top-favorite-climbing-books