The “Norwegian Training Method”

https://www.outsideonline.com/health/training-performance/norwegian-endurance-training/

Skyrunning … where trail running meets mountaineering

A short, impressionistic video, that makes clear that this niche, is not your garden variety trail race!

https://youtu.be/BvfsjCDwDLo?si=gjbKbx9t9NqjGVr8

Kikkan … the film on YouTube!

Wonderful video about Olympic gold medalist, Kikkan Randall.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GiNCCHXzdRU&feature=shared

BLAST FROM THE PAST … my only trip to Needles in the Black Hills

In the mid-1980s I ran a summer climbing program called Treetops West - TTW for short - taking adolescents to the Wind Rivers, Tetons, Veedauwoo, City of Rocks, the Needles, and eventually the Andes. That was when I visited the Needles and had my first brush with Gill boulder problems.

John Gill was a legendary climber and boulderer of the 1950s and 1960s. The Needles of South Dakota were one of his stomping grounds. Athletically, and gymnastically his climbing was way ahead of his time, with most of his problems going years, or even decades without a repeat. In fact, for quite some time most climbers were rather dismissive of him spending so much time on this "frivolous" niche activity.

Unlike our modern classifications systems with their copious gradations of difficulty, Gill broke bouldering down into just three categories. A problem which many top climbers had tried, and failed to climb was graded B-3. Once that problem had been climbed it gets relegated to a B-2 problem. He defined "easier" B-1 problems as starting beyond the hardest trad routes of his day, roughly 5.11.

While on TTW I did manage a couple of "easy" Gill B-1 problems. But, my most vivid memory was the day I was standing below the 30 foot high, free standing pinnacle, known as the Thimble. A famous route which Gill relegated to a B-2 problem when he ascended it in 1961. Almost three decades later, it had still not been repeated, as it sported a metal highway guardrail in the landing zone, which would yield a crippling injury in a fall. I climbed up and down the bottom 15 feet of the Thimble; the climbing was hard and technical, and I was memorizing, or "wiring the moves." But, despite encouragement from my cadre of student climbers, it was always clear to me that it was out of my league, and that, I certainly was not going to "go for it."

Several evenings later, after my TTW group had checked out more Gill problems I did this impressionistic watercolor in my trip journal.

Impossible Dream Boulder still unclimbed

However, Marcos made excellent progress and there are only two moves he has not figured out. He will be back in a couple of days, and my guess is, he will send it!

I had a good week of training, I logged 17 hours of activity, 177k (146k, 28k, run, 3k row), with 4800' vertical ascent. I also managed four short stretching sessions, and two strengths sessions.

This week, I am aiming for less bike and steeper vertical workouts.

Another book from Hock’s Alpine Library … a history of tuckerman ravine

Unfortunately it looks like another year, without a trip to the ravines on Mount Washington … have to make that happen next year. This short book - a pamphlet really - was published by the New England Ski Museum, and is liberally illustrated with archival photographs. Well worth snagging a copy.




Great video about one of Bonatti’s greatest routes

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/petzl-legend-tour-federica-mingolla-grand-capucin-in-the-footsteps-walter-bonatti.html

Perusing INTERNATIONAL SKI HISTORY ASSOCIATION video collection

While I was doing a 75 minute exercise bike ride this morning, I passed the time watching several videos: 1960 Winter Olympics, History of Sami People, Biathlon's Connection To Military History, the ski race sequence in The Holy Mountain, and Disney's Goofy in The Art Of Skiing. Lots of good stuff in there, next time I dip into this treasure trove, I am going to watch Lindsey Vonn skiing the Hannenkahm.

50th College Reunion Bike Ride … 33k

Getting ready for the 50 mile Prouty ride in July. 



BLAST FROM THE PAST … the impossible dream boulder problem

Back in the mid-1980s, when I bouldered frequently at the Outpost Leanto on campus, this was the one problem - over several years and many attempts - that I just could not master. Over the years many talented staff - Scott Pond, Tom Hughes, Ben Runyon,  Larry Robjent, Dave Steckler - as well as talented students, gave it their best shot, but it remains unclimbed. Back in the early 1990s, Russ Clune a Black Diamond rep, well known Gunks climber, and a bonafide 5.13 climber gave it a shot. Time was short, he worked it for 45 minutes, he said, "it will go" … "but I have no tape for my hands and no time to work it."

Well, former student and staff member  - Marcos Fernandez - as well as his brother Anthony are here for the week to help Larry with the end of year play. Marcos is determined to send it. I'll let you know how it goes. 

Lake Placid to host Nordic World Cup Final in 2026

https://fasterskier.com/2024/05/usss-congress-highlights-lake-placid-to-host-2026-world-cup-final/

Another book from my shelves … RUNNING WILD

If multi-day trail running or hiking trips, are how you plan your vacations, then this is the book for you.  Of course, it covers well know destinations - TMB, Alta Via, Pemigewasset and Presi Range - but it also includes many less well known gems. The Kungsleden in Sweden, trails in the Jura Mountains of Switzerland, sections of the Great Himalaya Trail, as well as sections of the G-20 in Corsica are all covered in this book. So too, are trails in the Lake District, and Scotland, as well as Patagonia, the Pyrenees, and British Columbia. 

Well worth a look.

Three week countdown until the Sierras!

I had a wonderful three days at my 50th college reunion - perhaps a bit too much food and drink - although the floodgate to memories and stories was clearly open wide.

Given the reunion, I still managed a decent week of training: 14.5 hours, 149k (115k bike, 34k run), with 5600' vertical. I also had one yoga and one strength session.

I am getting psyched to head west! Coming prepared for trail running, bouldering, hiking, backcountry skiing, and some snow climbs. First objective - June 12 - is climbing this chute on Twin Peak. (The picture was taken last week from Danny Hyde's deck.)

Excellent day at Union

The picture doesn't do justice to the phenomenal firework display which finished off the night. The day started with a 33k, relaxed bike ride, and then later in the day I did a hard 45 minute treadmill workout at a 15% grade.

Our D-Phi group was well represented with: Chip, Leftie, Harry, Rich, Fred, Sandy, Ted, Klink, and Dick, present for all, or part of the festivities.

50th College Reunion

President David Harris addressing the Union alumni from the class of 1974. He was supposed to go on our bike ride this morning but Dick and Ted frightened him off with their talk of cadence and speed in kph.

Slovak Direct on Denali

https://youtu.be/QUMHPnV8qz0?si=pTOhRlosLErV1Fx-

A GREAT ESSAY … Is skimo as silly as it seems

http://t-dawgspeaks.blogspot.com/2015/11/is-skimo-as-silly-as-it-seems.html

A possible PR on yesterday’s run up Mount Van Hoevenberg

Hard to tell exactly, as I have no frills version of Strava, and I was not taking the most direct route to the state trail. But, it surely was a good run, and a great view.

BLAST FROM THE PAST … the blatten chapel

Lenny and I stopped in, during our hike up to Furi in March 2023.

The Blatten chapel, called the "Maria Rosenkranzkönigin" is always open.  The chapel stands on a small rise, on the "Blatten" – a rock ledge in the eponymous hamlet below Furi, at an altitude of 1,740 m. This chapel is one of the best known in Zermatt.

The baroque chapel with recessed choir was built in 1640. The entrance was originally located on the north side, where its outlines are still clearly visible. It was moved to the east side in 1704 and protected with a porch, and massive pillared arcade. 

The interior and exterior of the church were renovated in 1983.
The stone-vaulted chapel is dedicated to Mary, Queen of the Rosary. The small altarpiece is from the early baroque period.
The altar is crowned with a simple statue of St Joseph. 

The original Madonna is missing; it was replaced long ago by a plaster figure. The Zermatt priest Oswald Perren made the chapel a gift of its current Madonna from southern Italy. A simple Stations of the Cross without inscriptions decorates the chapel nave.

Lots of rain but managed some good training

In between bouts of rain, this past week I managed to log 14.5 hours of exercise, on 149k (114k bike, 32k run, 3k ergometer), and 4100' vertical. I also managed two strength workouts and two yoga sessions.

What does fatigue resistance depend on?

It's worth clicking on the link to the second study conducted with pro cyclists, and the full research abstract that is provided.

https://www.outsideonline.com/health/training-performance/endurance-and-fatigue-resistance/

BLAST FROM THE PAST … old sketchbook and planner

I found this stored in the Fossil Cabin, it dates back to the summer Jon was born, when I ran the Adirondack Trail Improvement Society's, summer day camp. That was also the summer I met Ben Runyon, a Rutgers student, who was a counselor on my staff. After his final semester the following fall, Roger Loud hired Ben as an NCS teacher.

Nice run on the Jackrabbit Trail

Some great bouldering possibilities if the glacial erratics were cleaned up!

Excerpt from Rick Ridgeway’s book

https://www.patagonia.com/stories/life-lived-wild/story-102412.html?utm_source=em&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=050324_nomader&utm_klaviyo_id=01GQMSY133HGKT7KSCB0CMAK2H&_kx=VOA8zu5fg4rURwSosHy2WlWapQ1Ue6IQgCg0iNyBd8g.YgU9me

Another book from the Hock Alpine Library .., Ultra- marathon Coffee Table Book

A profile of 13 of the world's best races (100k-160k), 16 portraits of elite runners, and 13 short essays about important issues in the sport. But, a slew of terrific photographs!

All are well out of my range, so no doubt I will gift it to my daughter, who did her first ultra foot race last weekend. However, I still hope to be on hand again for another UTMB week to run out on the course and watch all the action. I also have on my bucket list, to camp out in Silverton for a few weeks before Hardrock, so I can run the trails, and rub shoulders, with everyone as they acclimatize.

Potential Adventure Goals For 2024-25

In this post, I'll just list some of the options which are further afield, more or less, they are all on my bucket list. Just hoping to find partners and the necessary cash!

NORWAY … attend the Holmenkollen World Cup, ski hut to hut, or do the Birkie
CHAMONIX … various trail runs, climbing at Gaillands, as well as some bouldering
ZERMATT … summer/fall ski, VK trail race, climb Breithorn and maybe Pollux
CASCADES … nordic in Bend, skin Mount Bachelor, and some of the Three Sisters
COLORADO … Gothic Mountain, various skimo races, or trail running at Hardrock
BANFF … Film Festival, Frozen Thunder, and backcountry ski touring
YOSEMITE … trail running on Valley floor and ski touring Glacier Point and Badger

Lucy Wins The Big A 50k

Lucy jumped into a 50k on Saturday, just as on over distance workout. She won, with the third fastest time in the 13 year history of the race.  The race had just under 6000' vertical climbing.

Excellent start to the new training year

Officially, it was a short training week, as the data was compiled into two different training years. However, if you lumped it together the full week yielded: 16 hours of exercise, 136k (99k bike, 34k run, 3k row), with just under 5500' vertical. I also logged two strength workouts and two yoga sessions.

Simple power test for fossils

https://www.nytimes.com/2024/01/22/well/move/strength-30-second-power-test-aging.html

TRAINING GOALS FOR 2024-25

Ideally, I would like to average about 15 hours a week of training, with maybe 4500' vertical, coupled with three stretching/balance sessions, and 2-3 strength sessions. Ideally, I would also like to have at least 120 days on snow, with the rest equal combinations of running, hiking, and biking. In annual numeric targets - given fluctuations from injury to periodization for big events - that means about 750+ hours, 225k vertical, 130+ stretching, plus 100+ strength sessions.

Within those basic parameters I would also like to add more ergometer warmups, climbing (bouldering and easy snow climbs) as well as MTB (rail trail recovery rides).

Outside magazine book review of EVEREST INC.

Seems like it might be interesting.

https://www.outsideonline.com/culture/books-media/history-guided-climbing-everest/?utm_term=ool&utm_campaign=ool-longreads&utm_medium=email&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-8N0nTUdh8pI7RmLEoN7uXGXmnk_1qe9j7CB81p9G3EMli_nohWuk51cwi6GcmIJse-doMnBZ-3156UFJwbGO7k6lCwjw&_hsmi=305337974&utm_source=newsletter

Quick analysis of my 2023-24 training year

It was another good year, in that I met most of my goals. I exceeded important goal parameters in total volume (700+ hours), total accumulated vertical (200k+), total yoga sessions (120+), annual days on snow (110+), more yoga than previous years, and a 20% increase in strength sessions. Additionally, I continued to race, logging five events, and where I continued to perform well. My best race was the Stratton Skimo, where I finished sixth (but 4th to the top). I also finally got to bike in the Prouty with my buddies.

However, as always there were disappointments. Despite making the best of a very crappy winter and hitting the low end of my targets, it however was my "shortest ski season" in awhile. So, there was more cross training without vertical, fewer annual days on snow, incrementally less riding lifts (although I think my downhill improved), and with the exception of the toll road, almost no backcountry skiing!

Walmsley … excellent new video

Well, as they always say "fifth time is always the charm."  A great - full length - documentary about his journey. Wonderful race footage, superb scenery, and nice look at his taking up the sport of skimo, and becoming "one with the poles."  The video got me psyched for the Broken Arrow VK in June, and my trip to Chamonix in October. 

https://youtu.be/MbXwKTZoLQ4?si=4RN7o_WAO30RYaVX

Last day of 2023-24 training year

Yesterday, I managed some good training in between rain showers. I started the day with a PT strength session at Sports Med, then did intervals at Whiteface (he picture was looking out toward Vermont after my last lap). This afternoon I did a 25 minute warmup with Stash and then an hour on the exercise bike.

The top line data from last year's training log were as follow: 723 hours of exercise, 218,661' of vertical climbing, 118 days on snow, combined 264 running/hiking sessions, 264 biking workouts (MTB and exercise bike), 152 yoga sessions, and 62 strength workouts.