It has been almost 35 years since Dougal was killed in an avalanche in Leysin. (Ironically, he was killed in the exact manner that one of his characters was despatched in his unfinished novel CALCULATED RISK.)
Dougal burst on the climbing scene in the late 1950s climbing new routes in Scotland with Robin Smith. He went on to do an early British ascent of the Eigerwand, was a major force in the creation of the Eiger Direct, took over the International School of Mountaineering after Harlin died, summitted the South Face of Annapurna with Whillans, and the Southwest Face of Everest with Scott. (The enclosed picture is Dougal leading the Hillary Step on Everest.)
A climbing figure that has grown to mythic stature since his death, and no doubt would have made the transition to light Himalayan alpine style attempts had he lived.