Fossil Alpinism

A bunch of old guys still enjoying the mountains, and the training they need to do to get off the couch

Wednesday, August 31, 2011

A New Slide On Wright

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The new slide is on the far right side of the peak and just out of view in the picture is Marcy Dam which was completely washed away by ...

The Eiger Nordwand in Video

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During the last week of summer I have re-watched three videos while doing some rowing on the Ergometer ... all excellent and well worth ...
Tuesday, August 30, 2011

THE ROAD NEAR CHAPEL POND SLABS

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The storm damage from Irene will put a bunch of good climbing areas out of commission for several months. The valleys of upstate New Yor...

Time to check your beacon and search procedures

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Overcoming the banality of mountaineering

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CLICK HERE TO READ THIS WONDERFUL ESSAY.

Everything You Need To Know About Crampon Durability

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I WILL ADMIT THAT I AM HOPELESS AROUND ISSUES OF MATERIAL AND CRAFTSMANSHIP, SO I RELY ON GOOD VENDORS OR MY BUDDIES. MANY THANKS TO DAN...

Skiing in South America

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Long Lines Las Lenas | 8/21/11 from UnofficialNetworks.com on Vimeo .
Monday, August 29, 2011

In Irene's Wake ... new slides in the Adirondacks

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No doubt yesterday's massive rainfall created numerous new slides and widened existing slides, the first one we know about is acros...

Alpine Flowers In Yosemite

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Last week I did a short hike to the summit of Gaylord Peak, at 11,007 it is just inside the northern boundary of the park. It afforded a...
Sunday, August 28, 2011

JUMP ... A steep edge video

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Having seen slides and read accounts of the high standard climbing being done on the pinnacles of Saxony, I am damned sure you would not...

A Yosemite Fossil Memory

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Thinking About Ice Climbing In Winter ... a good video about Scotland

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Scotland winter-climbing roadtrip 2011 from Hans Hornberger on Vimeo .
Saturday, August 27, 2011

Quote of the Week ... About Dougal after the Eiger Direct

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"Dougal was now famous ... He received scores of letters from fans, mostly from females entranced by his brooding looks and modish ...
Friday, August 26, 2011

A Bit Of Rock Climbing History ... John Menlove Edwards

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My flight out of Chicago was delayed and so I treated myself to a climbing film from the Steep Edge website. A GREAT EFFORT was a cinema...

BLAST FROM THE PAST: valley of death on Denali

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Weaving our way to the base of the Cassin Ridge, where Don realized he was way over his head, and so we re-calibrated and headed up the ...
Thursday, August 25, 2011

Camp Four and the climbing culture

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On Assignment from renan ozturk on Vimeo .

First Female To Climb All 8000 Meter Peaks Without Sucking O2

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CLICK HERE TO READ A SHORT ACCOUNT OF HER TRIP TO K2.

We didn't call it dry-tooling back in the 1970s

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We called it desperate, or thin, or just plain out of condition. We climbed it if we had to, and often broke our gear doing it. Did you...
Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Toulumne Meadows is awesome

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Pictured here are Tenaya Lake, Stately Pleasure Dome, Mount Dana, and Tenaya Peak. The rock, the weather, the history, the ethics, and ...

El Presidente master fly fisherman!

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Yosemite Crack Climbing

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Today I finished off my three day vacation in Toulumne with multiple laps on 5.6-5.9 glacier polished crack climbs. As always, your fir...
Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Laps on Puppy Dome

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Here we are getting ready for an afternoon assault on the 5.6 routes on the infamous Puppy Dome. Mark is giving an anti-light is right l...

Fishing in Toulumne

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It is great to be back in Toulumne Meadows. Doing a combination of yoga, easy hikes, and top-roping ... Mark is also catching trout for...
Sunday, August 21, 2011

South side of Mont Blanc

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Fantastic photos from a relatively rarely done ridge on the steep southern (Italian) side of Mont Blanc ... Super. CLICK HERE TO ACCESS...
Saturday, August 20, 2011

Less Than Ten Months Until We Head For The Andes

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Unknown to most alpinists that are acclimitizing in Huaraz there is some great rock climbing available. CLICK HERE AND CHECK IT OUT.

Fond memories of Michael ... South Face of the Petite Grepon

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Hot Chicks and Stormy Afternoons from Mark Smiley on Vimeo . This short video reminded me of the trip to Colorado when I climbed the P...
Friday, August 19, 2011

Do we really need another expedition to investigate Mallory and Irvine?

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READ AN ARTICLE IN THE GUARDIAN.

Cramming for your IFMGA test

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An American guide talks about his trip to prep for his IFMGA test, and to learn at the feet of the masters in Chamonix. CLICK HER TO REA...
Thursday, August 18, 2011

More Nordic Footage From The New Zealand Winter Games

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Elizabeth Hawley: keeper of the mountains

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Keeper Of The Mountains Kickstarter Video from Allison Otto on Vimeo .

Cragging

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What are the best AT bindings?

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CLICK HERE TO READ ABOUT AN EPIPHANY OF ALMOST RELIGIOUS PROPORTIONS ON THE TETON AND WASATCH WEBSITE.
Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Why Does Hock Struggle On 5.10a?

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In a couple a word it's "cream-line." CLICK HERE TO READ SELDEN'S INFORMATIVE FAIRHOPE FARM ESSAY, WHICH SHEDS LIGHT O...

Are Crunches Necessary?

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THIS COULD BE A MOOT POINT, BECAUSE AS A REPRESENTATIVE FOSSIL, GETTING OFF THE COUCH IS NECESSARY BUT THE ABILITYTO DO CRUNCHES MAY HAV...

More From Mark Twight

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AS TWIGHT REMINDS US, ALTHOUGH ALL FOSSILS SURELY KNOW, THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A FREE LUNCH. CLICK HERE TO READ HIS RANT ABOUT TAKING...
Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Free Mountaineering E- Books

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With the new - free - google books app, you can download an enormous number of historical mountaineering books written before 1930. Th...

50 Year History of Alpinism and the Montain Equipment Company

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NOTED BRITISH ALPINIST BRIAN HALL HAS DONE A VERY TASTEFUL DOCUMENTARY WITH SPECTACULAR FOOTAGE AND INTERVIEWS WITH BOYSEN, SCOTT, HAEBL...

Karakorum Classic ... Nayser Brakk (5200m)

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Nayser Brakk - Charakusa Valley, Pakistan - 2011 from Pat Goodman on Vimeo . After this "warm up" the team did a new route o...

Summer Solstice Ski Descent ... SW Face of the Dent Blanche

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Ski and Solo @ Dent Blanche 4357m from gilles sierro on Vimeo .
Monday, August 15, 2011

A Bit Of Rock Climbing History

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This is a superb website, with many wonderfully written essays, although unless you are a Brit or you fancy the history of the sport, it...

Blast From The Past ... Talkeetna, Denali, and our first Alaskan trip

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Over the years in Alaska we have had many fine fossil memories hanging out before and after our climbs ..., dancing in double boots, pl...
Sunday, August 14, 2011

NEW ZEALAND WINTER GAMES

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Along with the Kiwis,the American, Canadian, and parts of the Russian team were in attendance. Kris Freeman and Andy Newell finished 1-2...

Next Generation of Extreme Alpinists

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Starting them early, Ella is five and Pete is three.

Tuning Up For A Couple Of Days In The Sierras

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On Sunday I fly to California and hope to meet El Presidente in Toulumne Meadows. I am trying to get out of the office during lunch or a...

New Route on the Matterhorn

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Hervé Barmasse | Exploring the Alps # 1 | Solo on Matterhorn from STORY.teller on Vimeo . A fantastic video of Herve Barmasse putting ...

2011-2012 Snow Forecast

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Colin Haley's Thoughts on Gear For Alpinism

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CLICK HERE TO READ THIS LONG - BUT WELL BROKEN UP - ESSAY ON GEAR FOR BIG ALPINE ROUTES. IT WAS PRINTED ON THE CASCADE CLIMBER WEBSITE I...
Saturday, August 13, 2011

Historic Mountain Film

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In the 1920-30s, the genre Berg Film was to German Cinema what the western became for American cinema. This beautifully filmed and score...

SKI MOUNTAINEERING TECHNIQUE

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The classic debate between a steep skinning line (The way of the Hare) or the low road with a longer, gentler, skinning line (The way of...
Friday, August 12, 2011

Last Day Of Summer Rox

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Larry and Carter had many top ropes set up for the campers, and so toward the end of the day, when I knew most of the kids would be play...
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