A New Slide On Wright

The new slide is on the far right side of the peak and just out of view in the picture is Marcy Dam which was completely washed away by Irene.

The Eiger Nordwand in Video

During the last week of summer I have re-watched three videos while doing some rowing on the Ergometer ... all excellent and well worth watching. The first was the recent lightly fictionalized German film (English subtitles) called simply NORTH FACE. It is available on Netflix. The second was Joe Simpson's THE BECKONING SILENCE after a book of that name, which is available in eight installemnts on YouTube. The final one being by Leo Dickinson, called SOLO which is available on the Steep Edge Films website.

Which catches your fancy?

CLICK HERE TO WATCH THE FIRST INSTALLMENT OF THE BECKONING SILENCE.

THE ROAD NEAR CHAPEL POND SLABS

The storm damage from Irene will put a bunch of good climbing areas out of commission for several months. The valleys of upstate New York and Vermont got hammered. Many homes have been lost or damaged and roads and bridges are in need of serious repair.

Time to check your beacon and search procedures

Overcoming the banality of mountaineering

CLICK HERE TO READ THIS WONDERFUL ESSAY.

Everything You Need To Know About Crampon Durability

I WILL ADMIT THAT I AM HOPELESS AROUND ISSUES OF MATERIAL AND CRAFTSMANSHIP, SO I RELY ON GOOD VENDORS OR MY BUDDIES. MANY THANKS TO DANE FOR SORTING THROUGH THE ISSUES ON CRAMPON DURABILITY, SO EVEN I CAN ALMOST UNDERSTAND. CLICK HERE FOR AN IMPORTANT ESSAY.

Skiing in South America

Long Lines Las Lenas | 8/21/11 from UnofficialNetworks.com on Vimeo.

In Irene's Wake ... new slides in the Adirondacks

No doubt yesterday's massive rainfall created numerous new slides and widened existing slides, the first one we know about is across the street on Cascade. Dave took this picture from the top of Balanced Rocks today on the side of Pitchoff

Alpine Flowers In Yosemite

Last week I did a short hike to the summit of Gaylord Peak, at 11,007 it is just inside the northern boundary of the park. It afforded a spectacular view, as well as some nicel clusters of late blooming alpine flowers.

JUMP ... A steep edge video

Having seen slides and read accounts of the high standard climbing being done on the pinnacles of Saxony, I am damned sure you would not catch me jumping from one pillar to the next. High adrenal value.

A Yosemite Fossil Memory

Thinking About Ice Climbing In Winter ... a good video about Scotland

Scotland winter-climbing roadtrip 2011 from Hans Hornberger on Vimeo.

Quote of the Week ... About Dougal after the Eiger Direct

"Dougal was now famous ... He received scores of letters from fans, mostly from females entranced by his brooding looks and modish clothes. He was now, in fact, established as a cult figure on the climbing scene: Jim Morrison in crampons."

Clint Willis, THE BOYS OF EVEREST

A Bit Of Rock Climbing History ... John Menlove Edwards

My flight out of Chicago was delayed and so I treated myself to a climbing film from the Steep Edge website. A GREAT EFFORT was a cinematic re-creation of the famous essay written by John Menlove Edwards. The film and essay focus on the mental struggle that the climber goes through during an attempted solo ascent of Central Gully on Lliwedd in Wales. Edwards was one of the best British climbers during the 1930s and 1940s. He was a psychiatrist, poet, conscientious objector during WW II, as well as a homosexual during a time when that was punishable by imprisonment in Britain. CLICK ON THIS LINK TO READ THIS GEM OF AN ESSAY ON THE FOOTLESS CROW WEBSITE.

BLAST FROM THE PAST: valley of death on Denali

Weaving our way to the base of the Cassin Ridge, where Don realized he was way over his head, and so we re-calibrated and headed up the West Rib. Now-a-days folks do not do this dangerous approach, they down climb a ramp from the 14,000' camp on the West Buttress.

Camp Four and the climbing culture

On Assignment from renan ozturk on Vimeo.

First Female To Climb All 8000 Meter Peaks Without Sucking O2

CLICK HERE TO READ A SHORT ACCOUNT OF HER TRIP TO K2.

We didn't call it dry-tooling back in the 1970s

We called it desperate, or thin, or just plain out of condition. We climbed it if we had to, and often broke our gear doing it. Did you own a terrordaactyl or some other precursor to the current day nomic Read this interesting piece on Dane's Cold Thistle Blog. CLICK HERE TO READ WHAT BOUCHARD, FERGUSON, BUHLER, AND KLEWIN HAVE TO SAY ABOUT MODERN MIXED CLIMBING..

Toulumne Meadows is awesome

Pictured here are Tenaya Lake, Stately Pleasure Dome, Mount Dana, and Tenaya Peak. The rock, the weather, the history, the ethics, and the fossil memories do not get much better than what we have experienced here in the last 30+ years. Of course, missing from the collage are pictures which would remind us of past epics and adventures on Fairview Dome, Matthes Crest, Lembert Dome, Conness, Cathedral, and North Peak.

El Presidente master fly fisherman!

Yosemite Crack Climbing

Today I finished off my three day vacation in Toulumne with multiple laps on 5.6-5.9 glacier polished crack climbs. As always, your first days in Yosemite are humbling, a real eye-opener getting used to these slick, often flaring, and pure jamming cracks ... Not like back in the 'dacks where you can always find some good face climbing holds on the outside edge of the crack.

Laps on Puppy Dome

Here we are getting ready for an afternoon assault on the 5.6 routes on the infamous Puppy Dome. Mark is giving an anti-light is right lecture, talking about the virtues of his locking biner that weighs close to two pounds!

Fishing in Toulumne

It is great to be back in Toulumne Meadows. Doing a combination of yoga, easy hikes, and top-roping ... Mark is also catching trout for fish tacos.

South side of Mont Blanc

Fantastic photos from a relatively rarely done ridge on the steep southern (Italian) side of Mont Blanc ... Super. CLICK HERE TO ACCESS WEBSITE.

Less Than Ten Months Until We Head For The Andes

Unknown to most alpinists that are acclimitizing in Huaraz there is some great rock climbing available. CLICK HERE AND CHECK IT OUT.

Fond memories of Michael ... South Face of the Petite Grepon

Hot Chicks and Stormy Afternoons from Mark Smiley on Vimeo.

This short video reminded me of the trip to Colorado when I climbed the Petite Grepon with Michael Franklin. A spectacular day, spectacular climbing, and a spectacular summit. Over two decades ago we met in RMNP for a week of climbing. Because it was in the 50 Classic Climbs, we anticipated a crowd and so bivied at the base of the route and planned to get up at first light. Well starting at 3:00 am, the first in a series of about a dozen people stepped over us, and so at dawn we headed to the valley and climbed outside Este Park. Later in the day we hiked back into our bivy, and even though we were on the climb at 4:30 am we almost got skunked by a party of two gals ... However we took an alternate line and raced them to the base of the final tower. Later that evening - in our sleeping bags - we listened all evening as a party rapped down the gully towards us - without headlamps - leaving their entire rack on the descent. At first light the next morning we scored some serious booty.

Do we really need another expedition to investigate Mallory and Irvine?

READ AN ARTICLE IN THE GUARDIAN.

Cramming for your IFMGA test

An American guide talks about his trip to prep for his IFMGA test, and to learn at the feet of the masters in Chamonix. CLICK HER TO READ THIS FINE ESSAY ON THE OUTDOOR RESEARCH WEBSITE.

More Nordic Footage From The New Zealand Winter Games

Elizabeth Hawley: keeper of the mountains

Keeper Of The Mountains Kickstarter Video from Allison Otto on Vimeo.

Cragging

What are the best AT bindings?

CLICK HERE TO READ ABOUT AN EPIPHANY OF ALMOST RELIGIOUS PROPORTIONS ON THE TETON AND WASATCH WEBSITE.

Why Does Hock Struggle On 5.10a?

In a couple a word it's "cream-line." CLICK HERE TO READ SELDEN'S INFORMATIVE FAIRHOPE FARM ESSAY, WHICH SHEDS LIGHT ON ALL THINGS RELATED TO MILK, CREAM, AND FAT.

Are Crunches Necessary?

THIS COULD BE A MOOT POINT, BECAUSE AS A REPRESENTATIVE FOSSIL, GETTING OFF THE COUCH IS NECESSARY BUT THE ABILITYTO DO CRUNCHES MAY HAVE BEEN LOST A DECADE AGO! CLICK HERE TO READ A NICE SHORT ARTICLE IN THE NEW YORK TIMES ABOUT CORE FITNESS.

More From Mark Twight

AS TWIGHT REMINDS US, ALTHOUGH ALL FOSSILS SURELY KNOW, THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A FREE LUNCH. CLICK HERE TO READ HIS RANT ABOUT TAKING SHORTCUTS IN YOUR TRAINING REGIMEN.

Free Mountaineering E- Books

With the new - free - google books app, you can download an enormous number of historical mountaineering books
written before 1930. The titles I have downloaded onto my iPad include books written by: Young, Jones, Workman, Abraham, Conway, Freshfield, Norman-Neruda, Collie, Mummery, Perry, Lunn, Haskett Smith, Dent, Raeburn, and Whymper.

50 Year History of Alpinism and the Montain Equipment Company

NOTED BRITISH ALPINIST BRIAN HALL HAS DONE A VERY TASTEFUL DOCUMENTARY WITH SPECTACULAR FOOTAGE AND INTERVIEWS WITH BOYSEN, SCOTT, HAEBLER, AND MESSNER. CLICK HERE AND ACCESS THIS HISTORY FROM 1961-2011 WHICH CAN BE FOUND AT THE STEEP EDGE WEBSITE.

Karakorum Classic ... Nayser Brakk (5200m)

Nayser Brakk - Charakusa Valley, Pakistan - 2011 from Pat Goodman on Vimeo.

After this "warm up" the team did a new route on another pillar (Fida Brakk, 5350m), although the main objective the unclimbed SW pillar of K7 again eluded them. A longer video of their first ascent route on Fida Brakk is due out this Fall.

Summer Solstice Ski Descent ... SW Face of the Dent Blanche

Ski and Solo @ Dent Blanche 4357m from gilles sierro on Vimeo.

A Bit Of Rock Climbing History

This is a superb website, with many wonderfully written essays, although unless you are a Brit or you fancy the history of the sport, it may not be your cup of tea. This essay on Colin Kirkus is superb, and for those that do not know him, it puts modern day sport climbing in perspective. Reading about his feats on Welsh crags as a 17 year-old, just after World War I is mind boggling. Many routes solo, and those done roped, had little if any protection, yet he climbed to a standard of HVS or 5.7-58. Sadly, he died young during World War II.

CLICK HERE TO READ THE ESSAY.

Blast From The Past ... Talkeetna, Denali, and our first Alaskan trip

Over the years in Alaska we have had many fine fossil memories hanging out before and after our climbs ..., dancing in double boots, playing volleyball in the streets, and of course, Michael Franklin losing his lunch after leaving the Fairview Inn.

NEW ZEALAND WINTER GAMES

Along with the Kiwis,the American, Canadian, and parts of the Russian team were in attendance. Kris Freeman and Andy Newell finished 1-2.

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS SOME RACE FOOTAGE.

Next Generation of Extreme Alpinists

Starting them early, Ella is five and Pete is three.

Tuning Up For A Couple Of Days In The Sierras

On Sunday I fly to California and hope to meet El Presidente in Toulumne Meadows. I am trying to get out of the office during lunch or after work to get ready for some rock climbing. Mark, on the other hand, is getting ready for double knee surgery and so our itinerary is not very ambitious!

New Route on the Matterhorn

Hervé Barmasse | Exploring the Alps # 1 | Solo on Matterhorn from STORY.teller on Vimeo.

A fantastic video of Herve Barmasse putting up a hard new route - roped solo - on the Southeast Face of the Matterhorn. His first attempt took place when we were in Zermatt last March. The scenery is spectacular, and of course it is great to get some views of the other side of the mountain - Cervino - the Italian side of the mountain.

2011-2012 Snow Forecast

Colin Haley's Thoughts on Gear For Alpinism

CLICK HERE TO READ THIS LONG - BUT WELL BROKEN UP - ESSAY ON GEAR FOR BIG ALPINE ROUTES. IT WAS PRINTED ON THE CASCADE CLIMBER WEBSITE IN 2007 SO IT IS A BIT OUT OF DATE, BUT STILL HIGHLY RELEVANT.

Historic Mountain Film

In the 1920-30s, the genre Berg Film was to German Cinema what the western became for American cinema. This beautifully filmed and scored movie, produced in 1938 is a lightly fictionalized account of the 1865 first ascent of the Matterhorn. The story focuses on Carrel, played by the famous actor Luis Trenker, and Whymper takes something of a back seat. The sub-titles are well done, and this is another spectacular offering from the Steep Edge website. ENJOY this window into climbing history.

SKI MOUNTAINEERING TECHNIQUE

The classic debate between a steep skinning line (The way of the Hare) or the low road with a longer, gentler, skinning line (The way of the tortoise). CLICK HERE TO READ THESE HUMOROUS AND INSIGHTFUL ARTICLES FROM EARN YOUR TURNS.

Last Day Of Summer Rox

Larry and Carter had many top ropes set up for the campers, and so toward the end of the day, when I knew most of the kids would be played out I headed up to the crag to do some easy laps. This picture was taken on the 5.6 "One Taste.". The weather continues to be quite good and I hope to do some pitches this weekend.

DENALI: west buttress and Cassin ridge

Alaska, Denali- Cassin Ridge single push, and the West Buttress from Jonathan Griffith on Vimeo.

An excellent video shot by Jon Griffith, of a very fast, single push ascent of the classic route on the South Face. It is still on my "to do" list, although there are probably not many more years that I will be capable of a route of that magnitude. It gives you a look at how modern climbers get to the base of the Cassin ... No more toiling up the valley of death!

NCS Grads Nordic racing in New Zealand

I just got this picture from a former NCS parent, and two of my former racers - now in high school - are training and racing down under.

SKI MOUNTAINEERING ... light is right

CLICK HERE TO READ THE ARTICLE, "SHEDDING SKI GEAR WEIGHT," ON THE TETONS AND WASATCH WEBSITE.

Still skiing the Baldy Main Chute in Mid-August

While we are doing laps at the crag, hiking 46ers, or watching the Yankees-Red Sox, or maybe even watching the first NFL pre-season games it looks like there is still great skiing to be had in the Wasatch.

CLICK HERE TO READ A TRIP REPORT FROM ATRAIGHT CHUTER.

Ten More Months Until We Leave For Peru

Time to pull out the guidebook and start thinking about route selection. Urus, Ishinca, Tocllaraju, Ranrapalca, Alpamayo, Quitaraju are all possibilities.

Quote of the Week ... About Chamonix

"In Chamonix men achieve great things, and the Nietzschean ethic of surpassing one's previous best efforts plays out every day. As with all geographic sites of power, young people make the pilgrimage to measure themselves against the place and it's people. Some commune with the mountain god and find their true selves among the ice and the stone. Others are slapped down and end up in the ground."

Mark Twight

Black Ice Couloir ...hoping to bag this route before I hang up the spikes

READING THIS BLOG ENTRY ON THE GET STRONGER GO LONGER WEBSITE, GOT ME ENERGIZED TO PUT IT BACK ON THE RADAR SCREEN. CLICK HERE TO READ THE RECENT TRIP REPORT.

Elite women's nordic training camp in Alaska

Eagle Glacier Training Camp from Marc Lester on Vimeo.

While the men are in New Zealand, the American and Canadian women were on the Eagle Glacier in Alaska. Pretty high volume days, averaging between 65-75K per day.

Hard New Route On Mont Blanc

CLICK HERE TO READ THE DETAILS OF THE NEW ROUTE O THE BROUILLARD FACE.

Reconciling your profession and your climbing passion

2011 Outdoor Retailers Show

CLICK HERE TO READ RAFAL ANDRONOWSKI'S SUMMARY OF THE HOT LOOKING PRODUCTS AT THE 2011 OUTDOOR RETAILERS SHOW.

Development Threatens Red Rocks

Click on this image to enlarge it and see the details in this posting from American Alpine Institute. THEN CLICK HERE TO GET TO THE SAVE RED ROCKS SITE.

Soloing easy laps at Owl's Head

A beautiful evening, great views, and no others on the summit. Just after I topped out on my second 40' lap I got stung in the ear by a bee, it hurt like hell, and reminded me that you can never tell what might happen when you are soloing. Be careful, three points of contact, and be sure your mind is focused.

Blast from the past ... Mike Brochu on the West Rib

Flipping through some recently digitized slides I came across this gem. Mike setting up an anchor at about 12,000' on the south face of Denali. Looking at this picture spurred me to do a quick search for him on Facebook. Low and behold there he was and we reconnected after almost 20 years.

GEAR REVIEW ... alpine touring bindings

Dane at the Cold Thistle blog knows his gear and has done his research. This is a must read for anyone thinking of getting out of their three pins or wanting to upgrade their AT setup. CLICK HERE TO ACCESS HIS REVIEW.