Perusing the book Yankee Rock And Ice

"The first real stimulant to New England ice climbing standards took the adventitious form of a visiting professorship. During the academic years of 1927 to 1930, Harvard University hosted the British geologist Noel E. Odell, a name that readers ofthe romantic epics of early attempts on MountEverest will at once recognize. Odell occupied, for a brief span, a position in New England ice climbing somewhat analogous to that of Fritz Wiessner on rock (chapter 7) and the great skier Jackrabbit Johannsen on snow: a migrant from an area with more advanced standards who raised the sights of the New England locals."

Selden’s article from The Journal Of The American Revolution

https://allthingsliberty.com/2026/10/payback-attack-on-the-delancey-house/

Fifteen Memorable Eastern Rock Climbs

GUNKS. Horseman 5.5 High Exposure 5.5 Yellow Ridge 5.7 Arrow 5.8 Pas De Deux 5.8 Birdland 5.9 ADIRONDACKS. Regular Route Chapel Pond 5.5 Tilman’s Arete 5.7 Pete’s Farewell 5.7 Hesitation 5.8 Gamesmanship 5.8 Slim Pickins 5.9 WHITE MOUNTAIN Thin Air 5.6 Whitney Gilman 5.7 Sliding Board 5.7

Another good rehab week

Decreasing pain meds while the volume is increasing is certainly a good sign, additionally I continue to make incremental gains in knee flexion. Last week I logged 14 hours, on 145k (127k bike and 18k walking), with just under 1650’ vertical, as well as a couple of PT strength session, and some PT stretching for range of motion.

Long day: to and from the NY Giant football game

They blew a ten point lead, with a minute left in the first, and then fell apart in the second half. The tailgating was fabulous, and I had a great time with Lenny.

First real snow of the season

We got our first measurable snow this morning

Just a dusting here on the farm, but about an inch at higher elevations, and certainly measurable at the Whiteface Atmospheric Research Center.

Cold snap coming and thinking of ski season

I have started to use this mug for both morning tea and whiskey during cocktail hour.

A wonderful day and 126 degrees of flexion

BLAST FROM THE PAST: a bakers dozen of my best eastern ice

Summary of recent nordic combined nationals

https://nordicinsights.news/2026/10/11/niklas-malacinski-tara-geraghty-moats-win-nordic-combined-national-championships-in-lake-placid/

Cold Snap coming

Late Friday into Saturday we will have temperatures 20 (or more) degrees colder than normal, and bring with it, measurable snow at higher elevations.

Pictures from the Nordic Combined National Championships

Fifth week post-surgery

My rehab progress continues: knee flexion continues to increase, incremental gains in volume, vertical, and hours of exercise, as well as enjoying more outings. This week I logged 14:20 hours of exercise, on 138k (122k bike and 16k run), with 1600’ vertical gain. Additionally, I had several stretching/range of motion sessions, as well as two, targeted PT, strength sessions.

This is not a political blog but I couldn’t resist

Thanks for an assist from chatGPT.

Spectating the Nordic Combined National Championship

Spectacularly day to watch the jumping and skiing! My college buddy Klink came up for the day.

A great story, a fantastic tiny college and a wonderful video.

I bump into these Nordic skiers all season long. In late October they are doing laps on the Whiteface toll road whenever 2-3 inches of snow falls. As soon as Mount Van Hoevenberg starts making snow they are there. https://cms.fasterskier.com/2026/10/paul-smiths-dougherty-national-title/

My plan for upcoming months

In the past two days I have had good conversations with my PT guy and my surgeon, now that I am in my fifth week post-surgery. I mostly just asked them if my concept of a walk-jog-run progression, as well as my thought on volume and vertical progressions seemed realistic. With their proviso - (“don’t do anything stupid”) - they seemed to think it was manageable. Then of course, I set out alterations to include inevitable seasonal change of activities.

Another sketch of my climbing history

The North Ridge of the Grand is a fantastic route, and at the time of its first ascent (1931) probably the hardest alpine climb in America.

More thoughts about ski season

In a humorous sort of way …

More World Cup photos from my buddy Klink

It was a good week, with UCI races and continued incremental post-surgery gains. I continue to log more exercise, this week managing 13.5 hours, on 108k (96k exercise bike and 12k hike), with 900’ vertical ascent, and also several stretching and PT strength sessions.

Starting to think about ski season

Skiing has started in Ruka; in two weeks there will be tracks also in Canmore; and of course there will be tracks over Thanksgiving at Mount Van Hoevenberg. Given my new knee, I am hoping to be nordic skiing on easy terrain after Thanksgiving.

GREAT DAY at the UCI MTB WORLD CUP

I am exhausted having logged more kilometers on the new knee than I ought to!

Semi-rad’s take on the question: Did you win?

Sketching through my climbing history!

Including the ones that got away! I first saw the Matterhorn in December 1972, at the tail end of a semester off from college with Dick, vagabonding about Europe. I was smitten, and when I came back in 1978, I was an “aspiring hard man” and had just knocked off 3-4 classic ice routes, thus I vowed “I would get on the hornligrat as I descend it, from one of the sexier alternatives.” Of course, the partner I had hooked up with, had to go back to work, and I got sick. (I count that three month European climbing trip, as my longest bivy … no money for campgrounds, huts, or lifts) Thankfully, Lenny and his travelers checks nursed me back to health, and for my payback I was meant to guide him up the Matterhorn, but alas the weather was crappy. I came back in 1992 with Gary with designs on the North Face; then came back again in 2012 with Carter Rowley; in both cases we had great ski tours and some good warmup climbs, but never enough settled weather to jump on the Schmid route. So, it seems the Matterhorn will have to wait until my next reincarnation.

Swiss glaciers shrink dramatically

 https://www.aol.com/articles/swiss-glaciers-lose-more-5-230131000.html

Article about hotel at the base of the Eiger mordwand

So much drama and history surrounds the little hamlet of Kleine Schidegg where all the climbing epics have played out in front of the telescope on the porch! A quick google will bring you to the site. 

Google Adirondack Explorer to read this article

Today is four weeks post-surgery

I had another good rehab week! I logged 11:45 hours of exercise, on 88k (79k bike and 9k run), with 775’ vertical gain. I also managed a bunch of stretch, and PT work, some with weights as well as band resistance.

Good article on the proliferation and confusion of training zones

https://cms.fasterskier.com/2026/09/training-zones-zone-2-heart-rate/

BLAST FROM THE PAST: 1978 my first route in Zermatt

I had just spent a month climbing in the Lake District, Wales, and the Dolomites. I headed to Zermatt for 3-4 weeks, met a Brit (about a decade older than me) and proceeded to simul-solo a bunch of classic routes … the Triftjigrat being the first.

Excellent documentary about ultra running

https://youtu.be/MnZlcm0KZrk

UCI mountain bike World Cup back in Lake Placid

Next week the best competitive mountain bikers return to Mount Van Hoevenberg and Whiteface from October 2-4. Looking forward to be able to hike some of the course!

Adirondack Sky Center and Onservatory

I can not make a visit tonight, but it is on my “to do” list for the future.

Explore this wonderful ski mountaineering website

Just google The High Route, and enjoy poking around. Additionally, I have just finished reading their recent journal publication, as well as getting ready to download some of their podcasts.

Barn laps

Part of my rehab work, is to do two daily walks on our gravel driveway. Depending how far up or down the driveway I go, the laps tend to be 5-8 minutes long. So, yesterday on my easy walks, I covered a total of 1.5k with 125’ vertical gain, in just under 30 minutes.

Day #20 post-surgery

Well, it’s obvious that my left knee is still swollen, however it appears that the swelling is much reduced. This reduction is most notable by the ripple of individual quad muscles which are now discernible, and the tendons in my left foot which are clearly visible as well. The additions of two short “hikes” a day with my dog, and range of motion exercise biking, have clearly improved my mood. These “exercises”bring huge psychological benefits even if the physical benefits are purely incremental. Obviously, my weekly log is quite modest, with 9.5 hours, on 47 kilometers (39k bike and 7k run), and 700’ vertical gain, with many stretching and PT workouts.

Another fond Teton memory

Brought to you by chatGPT; my recent stay at the Climbers Ranch with Klink, brought back many fond memories from the 1970s and 80s.

BLAST FROM THE PAST: buck mountain

With the help of chatGPT I turned an old, blurry, Kodak picture of me bouldering in the woods into an oil painting. Memory tells me, I was guiding a group of teenagers up the East Ridge of Buck Mountain in the Tetons. (On a rest break on the approach, I did a bit of bouldering on this erratic in my vintage Nike Cortez running shoes.) The peak is a fourth class scramble, but I recall setting up two rope lengths which campers climbed with prussik self-belays.

Day #18 post-surgery

Knee flexion is up to 108 degrees, enough to do some range of motion cycling (not aerobic) on my exercise bike. A few days ago at my two week visit, I was cleared for easy walking on flat, and obviously, non-technical terrain. So, my movement world has enlarged. Until I can drive - probably another three weeks - my go to place will be laps on our gravel drive way. (Supplemented by some hiking on the roller ski track at MVH, when I can get Selden to do drop-offs.)

Underrated mountaineering films to watch



As I am spending time icing during my rehab, I am going to watch them all … the summit, the eight mountains, the wall, and the last mountain.

Day #16 post-surgery

Yesterday, I had my two week followup with Dr. Bryne. Staples are out, swelling going down, and a thumbs up from doc for easy walking laps and easy stationary bike … YAHOO. He did say, I was ahead of the curve in all departments!