I bump into these Nordic skiers all season long. In late October they are doing laps on the Whiteface toll road whenever 2-3 inches of snow falls. As soon as Mount Van Hoevenberg starts making snow they are there. https://cms.fasterskier.com/2026/10/paul-smiths-dougherty-national-title/
Friday, October 9, 2026
Thursday, October 8, 2026
My plan for upcoming months
In the past two days I have had good conversations with my PT guy and my surgeon, now that I am in my fifth week post-surgery. I mostly just asked them if my concept of a walk-jog-run progression, as well as my thought on volume and vertical progressions seemed realistic. With their proviso - (“don’t do anything stupid”) - they seemed to think it was manageable. Then of course, I set out alterations to include inevitable seasonal change of activities.
Wednesday, October 7, 2026
Another sketch of my climbing history
Tuesday, October 6, 2026
Monday, October 5, 2026
More World Cup photos from my buddy Klink
Sunday, October 4, 2026
Starting to think about ski season
Saturday, October 3, 2026
Friday, October 2, 2026
Thursday, October 1, 2026
Sketching through my climbing history!
Including the ones that got away! I first saw the Matterhorn in December 1972, at the tail end of a semester off from college with Dick, vagabonding about Europe. I was smitten, and when I came back in 1978, I was an “aspiring hard man” and had just knocked off 3-4 classic ice routes, thus I vowed “I would get on the hornligrat as I descend it, from one of the sexier alternatives.” Of course, the partner I had hooked up with, had to go back to work, and I got sick. (I count that three month European climbing trip, as my longest bivy … no money for campgrounds, huts, or lifts) Thankfully, Lenny and his travelers checks nursed me back to health, and for my payback I was meant to guide him up the Matterhorn, but alas the weather was crappy. I came back in 1992 with Gary with designs on the North Face; then came back again in 2012 with Carter Rowley; in both cases we had great ski tours and some good warmup climbs, but never enough settled weather to jump on the Schmid route. So, it seems the Matterhorn will have to wait until my next reincarnation.
Swiss glaciers shrink dramatically
https://www.aol.com/articles/swiss-glaciers-lose-more-5-230131000.html
Wednesday, September 30, 2026
Article about hotel at the base of the Eiger mordwand
Tuesday, September 29, 2026
Monday, September 28, 2026
Today is four weeks post-surgery
Good article on the proliferation and confusion of training zones
https://cms.fasterskier.com/2026/09/training-zones-zone-2-heart-rate/
Sunday, September 27, 2026
BLAST FROM THE PAST: 1978 my first route in Zermatt
Saturday, September 26, 2026
Friday, September 25, 2026
UCI mountain bike World Cup back in Lake Placid
Thursday, September 24, 2026
Wednesday, September 23, 2026
Explore this wonderful ski mountaineering website
Tuesday, September 22, 2026
Barn laps
Monday, September 21, 2026
Day #20 post-surgery
Well, it’s obvious that my left knee is still swollen, however it appears that the swelling is much reduced. This reduction is most notable by the ripple of individual quad muscles which are now discernible, and the tendons in my left foot which are clearly visible as well. The additions of two short “hikes” a day with my dog, and range of motion exercise biking, have clearly improved my mood. These “exercises”bring huge psychological benefits even if the physical benefits are purely incremental. Obviously, my weekly log is quite modest, with 9.5 hours, on 47 kilometers (39k bike and 7k run), and 700’ vertical gain, with many stretching and PT workouts.
Sunday, September 20, 2026
Another fond Teton memory
Saturday, September 19, 2026
BLAST FROM THE PAST: buck mountain
With the help of chatGPT I turned an old, blurry, Kodak picture of me bouldering in the woods into an oil painting. Memory tells me, I was guiding a group of teenagers up the East Ridge of Buck Mountain in the Tetons. (On a rest break on the approach, I did a bit of bouldering on this erratic in my vintage Nike Cortez running shoes.) The peak is a fourth class scramble, but I recall setting up two rope lengths which campers climbed with prussik self-belays.
Friday, September 18, 2026
Day #18 post-surgery
Knee flexion is up to 108 degrees, enough to do some range of motion cycling (not aerobic) on my exercise bike. A few days ago at my two week visit, I was cleared for easy walking on flat, and obviously, non-technical terrain. So, my movement world has enlarged. Until I can drive - probably another three weeks - my go to place will be laps on our gravel drive way. (Supplemented by some hiking on the roller ski track at MVH, when I can get Selden to do drop-offs.)
Thursday, September 17, 2026
Underrated mountaineering films to watch
Wednesday, September 16, 2026
Day #16 post-surgery
Tuesday, September 15, 2026
NORDIC INSIGHTS posted some good new articles
Full coverage of the two important fall rollerski races in Lake Placid this past weekend, as well as an article about training advice for the over 65 year old athletes. The rollerski race coverage was particularly interesting, as it came at the end of a week long women’s camp for both nordic and biathlon team members. Google the website and check it out!
Monday, September 14, 2026
Sunday, September 13, 2026
Quick look at what Jessie Diggins has been up to since retirement
She has been doing quite a bit of trail running, including: finishing the Broken Arrow Triple Crown in fourth, a respectable finish in the incredibly competitive Sierre-Zinal, and yesterday winning the Superior 100 miler, finishing fifth overall. Obviously, she is still one incredibly fit gal. https://www.trailrunnermag.com/people/profiles-people/jessie-diggins-is-running-into-retirement/
Saturday, September 12, 2026
Day #12 post-surgery: first outdoor adventure
Selden dropped me off at the handicap parking at Mount Van Hoevenberg, and I watched the Keys To The Castle Roller Ski race. A beautiful day, with a handful of women Olympians in the field. I logged about 2k over 45 minutes moving time … interspersed with sunning myself in a deck chair. A great mental health boost!
Fastest Know Time: teton crest trail
Friday, September 11, 2026
Day #11 post-surgery
Thursday, September 10, 2026
Day #10 post surgery
Wednesday, September 9, 2026
New documentary about Yosemite plane crash in 1977
https://www.climbing.com/culture-climbing/yosemite-weed-plane-crash-documentary/
Tuesday, September 8, 2026
Day #8 post-surgery and our anniversary
It was a busy day, as I started PT, Selden was getting the vet to write an antibiotic prescription for Stash, and our anniversary celebration was limited to popping the cork and raising a glass of prosecco. (However, I was pleased to see that my initial measurement was 74 degrees of flexion, and after a few exercises I measured 87 degrees.)
News from the Arctic
I have always been interested in polar exploration and mountaineering in the Arctic. The Denali Range, the Wrangells, or the Brooks Range, have long fascinated me. From Baffin Island, Greenland, onto Svalbard, Lyngen Alps, and Lofoten. This is an interesting article about how melting ice is opening a trade route through the Arctic. China has begun the first regular service, part of its polar ambitions. https://www.nytimes.com/2026/09/08/world/europe/china-arctic-shipping-trade-route.html?unlocked_article_code=1._lA.llJf.UxC22VwjBmMJ&smid=em-share
Monday, September 7, 2026
Day #7 post-surgery
Monday is typically my normal rest and recovery day. A night of poor sleep, led me to think that I needed to reduce my rehab “mileage” today, to assure myself, that I was not over doing things. So, it was a day with more icing, and time on the continuous passive movement machine. Another highlight was venturing out on the deck and having a small whiskey with Gary.
Sunday, September 6, 2026
Day #6 post-surgery
The bulk of my days are focused around: icing my knee, taking and organizing my meds, strapping into the machine for continuous passive movement, taking a zillion laps around the house with my walker, doing the exercises suggested at discharge, napping, and keeping buddies apprised of how I am doing. Given, that my pain management has gone well, I have often also been able to read or listen to audio books. Currently I am finishing the last 20 pages of Regime Change, knee deep into two novels (Summerland and Separation of Power), as well as reading Matterhorn Vision. When I finish that I will start to dip into a favorite collection of climbing fiction.
Saturday, September 5, 2026
Friday, September 4, 2026
Day #4 post-surgery
Pain management continues to go well, and I continue to log many laps with my walker, inside the house. Things seem to be going well, and I am more able to concentrate on reading and listening to audible books for a bit. I also daydream about getting better, and going to Chamonix and climbing on the Gaillands, as well as maybe doing Pointe Lachenal, and the Cosmique Arete again.