I couldn’t make it last night. I have never been, but it’s on my hit list for this summer!
A bunch of old guys still enjoying the mountains, and the training they need to do to get off the couch
In late July of 1978 I was camped on a pasture high above Zermatt. After a long approach and climb of the Triftigrat on the Breithorn, I was begrudging the final hike to my bivy site. But, then I saw this sight, a grandma lugging a huge load over to the hayrick, and realized that maybe I was a wimp!
I found this while perusing The Alps on Anna’s Archive, published in 1904, described by Sir Martin Conway and painted by A.D. McCormick.
Needless to say, you don’t see this type of scene anymore … alpine pastures are still grazed, but small tractors working on ski trails take the back-breaking work out of the task.
Despite significant knee pain, and an increase in daily ibuprofen consummation, I had a good week of training. I logged 15 hours, on 151 kilometers (124 k bike, 23k run, 4k row), with 4225’ vertical gain, as well as two strength and stretching sessions. Starting to use my burly mountaineering boots for some sessions to be sure I won’t get blisters in the Sierras.
In the winter of 1979, after a couple of wonderful climbs in Scotland, Jonathan Waterman and I got fed up with days of torrential rain and made an epic train journey to Chamonix.
Not having planned on the alps, we were under equipped - no skis or snowshoes and no heavy duty winter sleeping bags - which meant floundering in deep snow and cold night bivies in cable car stations, at well over 12,000’.
However, after lowering Waterman off the crux pitch from a Mjolnar ice tool (he had a broken crampon) I managed to lead us to the top. The route is direct and goes right through the black ice in the narrow part of the hourglass.
Gaston Rebuffat’s account of his six climbs of the classic north faces of the alps. Poetic, and full of delightful black and white photos; this is a treasure of mountaineering literature. I have passed my copy along to a good buddy. But, I have downloaded a PDF from an online library … Google Anna’s Archive.
I logged 13.5 hours, on 133k (105k bike and 28k run), over 4500’ vertical, and one solid strength session at the gym. I also started to tune into getting ready for some climbing: checking harness, getting a pass to the bouldering gym, and doing an itty-bitty hike in my mountaineering boots.
David Hochschartner (Hock)
Back in the winter of 1991, a much simpler and rustic hut was perched on this col at an elevation of 3,317 meters. As per law and custom, boarded up huts, had an open and unheated “winter room” accessible by ladder to the second floor. Ben and Susie, as well as Gary and I camped there for a week. During that time we skied and climbed the Breithorn, Pollux, Shreckhorn, and Monte Rosa.
Well, Killington and Jay are closing this weekend, and of course, there is still Tuckermans Ravine. However, given the poor winter out west, I have decided not to take skis to the Sierras on my upcoming trip, in three weeks. So, this officially is the end of my 2025-26 ski season.
I have cleaned and waxed ski bases, as well as moving them in to storage at the Fossil Cabin. Today I moved ski boots to the basement, as well as taking skins, corks, scrappers, and waxes downstairs.
Well, maybe it was rash to be racing so early in the season! The left knee is still creakier than usual. The heel blister is no fun; I never even felt it during the race, as my left knee hurt so much. And despite keeping my pace at a reasonable level - 120 to 130bpm - I really didn’t log enough kilometers in April to be racing. Then of course there is the obvious: the older you get the more judicious you need to be in metaphorically putting yourself on the line.
The log was modest; but it was good to do one good interval session, jump into an early season race, do some strength and stretching, as well as some climbing prep fitting crampons to mountaineering boots for my upcoming Sierra trip. As far as the regular metrics: I logged 10 hours, on 83k (58k bike and 25k run), with 3800’ vertical gain.
Given that this was my longest run - by far - since October, I was pretty satisfied. This is the earliest I have raced in the new training year, so I consider it as more like a Level 3 and low Level 4 workout. My left knee really hurt on the two flat sections; needless to say I am counting the days until my gel injections. (I am even starting to consider if it is time for an early fall surgery.)
The basic metrics remain the same: 750 hours, 200,000’ vertical gain, and 115 days on snow. With a gym membership, I am now looking to make a major - much needed bump - in strength, to 75 sessions for the year. I am also looking to do a big increase in MTB, to 85 sessions.
Finally, I am going to once again, join the HPC rock gym, so I can get ready for a major 75th birthday summit.
We had ten days of perfect weather this past March. I had some great hikes and ski days; and as always when I am in Zermatt it brings back memories from the 1970s, first with Dick and then with Lenny. Looking forward to my next trip, maybe in September … with Klink and Harry?
One of my best Zermatt moments was doing the Welzenbach route on the North Face of Lyskamm in the summer of 1978.
The new training year started in the middle of the week, so the data is on two different spread sheets.
It was a good week, and I logged just a bit under 14 hours, on 100k (69k bike and 31k run), and 4065’ vertical gain. I also spent time in the gym managing two strength and stretching sessions.
Additionally, I did another snow school outing to work on crampon and axe skills. Now that the seasonal transition is complete, I have returned to tracking my speed per kilometer, as well as vertical per kilometer on foot.
For nordic types, May 1st is the beginning of the 2026-2027 year. I spent the last hour looking at my spreadsheet and crunching the numbers. By this weekend I’ll commit to some goals for the coming year, and fully analyze last year’s performance.
At first blush, my key metrics - volume, vertical, days on snow - we’re all spot on, or close to goal projections. My 2025-26 goal was to log 750 hours, on 200,000’ of vertical gain, and 115 days on snow. When all is said and done, I managed 747 hours, almost 189,000’ vertical, and 113 days on snow.
Celebrating my 75th on the Matterhorn or the Grand Teton would be pretty cool. If not those peaks, there are obviously other options including short cragging routes on the Riffelhorn, or in the national park.
But, having a guide for a day or two, leading all the 5.2-5.4 climbs that I did in the Gunks 50+ years ago would be fun too!
Working on goals for the upcoming season. Last week was a good one, and I feel ready for a new season, with my body fully adapted for running, hiking, and biking. Of course, I will also need to focus back on my climbing skills.
I logged 13.5 hours last week, on a total of 108k (85k bike, and 23k run), with 4600’ of vertical gain. I did three stretching sessions, two strength workouts, and a couple of snow school practice sessions.
We were also blessed with wonderful weather, chilly mornings, warming up nicely throughout the day, and mostly blue skies.
Another hour long walk up Whiteface snow slopes, with some laps climbing up and down, on a steeper section. Given my thought of doing a big climb to celebrate my 75th birthday - 15 months from now - I realize I need to begin to polish my dormant climbing skills. Crampons are working well on my old skimo race boots. I think I’ll need to renew my membership in the High Peaks Cyclery climbing gym, and try to do some occasional bouldering.
https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2021_files/AJ%202021%20Vol%20125%20110-115%20Hood%20Gos%20Family.pdf
When I worked as a guide in the late 1970-80s, you would go through a progression of activities getting people comfortable walking on a glacier with crampons, climbing moderately steep gullies, as well as learning how to self arrest. Yesterday, I spent an hour wandering around on the Whiteface terrain park, practicing those same skills, and making sure my crampons were well adjusted to my skimo boots. Hoping, to visit Mount Washington next week and climb one of the snow gullies on Boot Spur.
It was starting to feel like spring had finally come to the Adirondacks, but not quite yet. Its monday morning with snow flurries, and temperatures will remain in the twenties until Tuesday afternoon. A decent week of training, as I continued to transition into the 2026-27 training year. Last week I logged 13:45 hours of excersize, on a total of 139k (119k bike, 18k run, and 2k row), with just over 3500’ vertical gain. I also managed two strength sessions, a morning of riding lifts with my skimo race gear, a bit of stretching, and my first three short rides on the MTB.