Gervasutti Pillar TD+ (Fr Alpine)
One of the great classics of the range. Fine climbing on the pillar followed by some tricky route finding to reach the summit.
An early start is essential to minimise the risk of stonefall in the entry couloir - this is a very nasty place as the sun hits the upper part of the face first thing in the morning.
From the rimaye, a tricky few steps op to a narrow ledge gets you up out of the couloir where you can gear up in safety. From here climb an easy pitch to a larger ledge then a harder pitch up and round to the left to gain the crest of the ridge via an off-width crack. Enjoy the next several hundred meters of climbing on this magnificent pillar passing a letterbox and finally a series of strenuous crack pitches to arrive at a ledge from where a hard crack (three pegs if still there) goes up left onto another part of the pillar.
This is much harder than the previous difficulties and need not be attempted. Rather go right and slightly downwards to pass the main pillar via a couloir full of giant detatched blocks (remains of ancient fixed ropes) . Climb uo to the col which marks the end of the pillar and continue until you reach a drop (15m or so). Rap down an then climb the left hand of two obvious corner cracks. From the top of this follow a shattered (or snow filled?) couloir up right to another col. Cross the col and cilimb to the summit.
Descend easily via the normal route.
Guidebook time 10-12 hours from the rimaye to the summit.
Posts
