Monday, December 10, 2007

1991 Trip Ending



We ended with a day at Eldorado Canyon doing the classic Bastille Crack (III 5.7), and afterwards we did the 5.10+ Northcutt start. After to some bouldering it was off to the rock gym before our "red-eye" flights home ... I do believe that Danny Hyde recouped some glory by winning the contest on the plastic holds! (Click on the picture to enlarge the photo.)

RMNP continued ...



We finished up in the park with a pre-dawn start to do the Kiener's Route on Long's Peak. Danny bailed at Chasm Lake, and the rest of us soldiered on. Quite a good route actually, and it proved to be a longer than expected, 14-15 hour day. Fantastic views of the Diamond. (Click on the picture to enlarge the photo.)

1991 Fossil Trip to RMNP



After a day of climbing at Lumpy Ridge we headed off to the backcountry, with the first stop being the North Ridge of Spearhead. Brian and Michael, and Hock and Mark teamed up to do this III 5.6 route, while Danny nursed his gastro-intestinal problems back in camp. On day two, with the weather looking only "so-so" Mark and Hock third classed McHenry's while Michael and Brian headed off to do Syke's Sickle, only to get rained on about 5 pitches off the deck. (Danny stayed close to the outhouse.)

More RMNP Stuff



After hiking out in the pouring rain from Spearhead, we dried out and spent another day top roping 5.9 - 5.11 routes at Lumpy, and then got up early and we all did a route on Sharkstooth. (Our route followed the line between sunlight and shade.)

Dana Pillar



Great rock, great setting, and a great day for our two fossils. (Click on the picture to enlarge the photo.)

Brian and Michael's Big Day out



The Dana Pillar which includes the "best 5.9 pitch in the universe" high up on the route. (Click on the picture to enlarge the image.)

Sunday, December 9, 2007

Geant - Rochefort Traverse



This superb route (#33 of Gaston Rebuffat's 100 finest) is best started from the Torino Hut. Back in the mid-1970s our South African friend Richard Wilmott was supposed to accompany us on the route, but he misplaced his ice axe in the over crowded hut, and had to stay behind. On the way down the Mer de Glace glacier I snapped my original pair of rigid Chouinard crampons and I also held a fall by Mark as he almost slipped into a big crevasse. (Click on the picture to enlarge the photograph.)

Mark and Hock's First Climb



Over 30 years ago, Hock, Mark, and Danny met in the Municipal pool in Chamonix. The Aiguille du Geant is a 4,000 meter peak within spitting distance of Mount Blanc. Mark and Hock climbed the 750' finger of rock pictured above. After rapping down, they discussed climbing in Yosemite on their return from the Alps, and then headed across the snow traverse to the summit of the Aiguille de Rochefort. (Click on the picture to enlarge the photograph)

Did you know?

NCS kids are all climbing leashless with hot new Black Diamond gear!

Dry tooling

Hock giving the rock a shot.

First Day of the Season

Hock and Larry running laps on "Buster" and the rock slab to its left.

Saturday, December 8, 2007

Peruvian Fossil Trip



Our horse packer and his daughter. Peru is an amazing place to climb. The weather is fantastic, the ice routes of staggering beauty, only an 8 hour bus ride to the base of the Cordillera Blanca, La Casa de Zarela is a great place to acclimatize, the in country costs are cheap, and Oscar is there at the end of the day with coca tea and dinner! Who wants to tag a couple of 6,000 meter peaks in a 14 day vacation? (Click on the picture to enlarge it.)

Full Conditions



The day started out like a blizzardy day on Ben Nevis in Scotland.

Roof Goes on Tomorrow!

Gary and Larry putting trim on. Almost ready for the fossils to move in.

Humorously: In memory of Lewie

An article related to all the research he was doing at the Palamino Club (Click here)

Friday, December 7, 2007

Thursday, December 6, 2007

Fossils in the Gunks



About 14 months ago Hock and Brian spent a great day of moderate climbing in the Gunks. We did "Junior" (5.9 top rope), "Laurel" (5.7), "Belly Roll" (5.4), and pictures here is "Jackie" (5.6).

Pinnacle Gully



Hock and Brian - at last year's Fossil gathering - finally finding some ice, high up on the side of Mount Washington, in Huntington Ravine. This is new England's most classic and historic ice climb done in 1929. Pinnacle today is graded NEI 3+, imagine it back in the day, with 110 cm axes, no ice screws, and a hemp rope! We stayed in the Harvard Cabin ... a walk down memory lane for Hock, who had not been back since he was the care taker in the winter of 1977-78.

Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Come on out!

The Nordic skiing is great and the ice routes are even better.

Sunday, December 2, 2007

Club House News




Gary and Selden started the day at -5 degrees, with the a high today reaching a balmy 13 degrees. For the discerning Fossil you might recognize the ratty and tattered red suit that Selden is wearing. It is actually the old red "farmer john" Wilderness Experience garment that Michael Franklin used to ice climb in. (Actually, since Hock has outgrown big red, Selden has used it mostly to milk her cows when it was -25 degrees.)

Gary: massive carpenter dude!



This is going to be a great place for Fossils to hang out ... comfy chairs, climbing mags, sleeping loft, single malt, wood stove, excellent mountain views, adjoining 50K of groomed Olympic trails, and eventually a sauna.

Fossils circa 1980




Mark, Michael, and Hock leaving their Yosemite campsite to head up the South Face of Washington Column (V 5.9 A2). Check out the high-tech, army surplus haul bag. We slept at Dinner Ledge four pitches up. One notable event was Hock's first placement of a Friend - this new fangled, radical, camming device - that Ewing was trying to get us to use! Some other highlights included: Hock's short leader fall on the pitch below the Kor Roof, Franklin's freakout, Hock nailing the Kor Roof, and the old "turd bag" hidden in the fleece jacket trick. We bailed after 6 pitches.

Conness: a previous fossil trip



Several summers ago, Mark, Danny, Hock, and Kevin (an inductee in the Order of the Friends of Fossils) climbed the West Ridge in a 16 hour day. Fantastic climbing, and a great outing made more delightful by Mark's route finding prowess on the first couple of pitches and Hock's gastro-intestinal issues!

Thursday, November 29, 2007

Poem for Michael and Lewie

I am not dead, I have only become inhuman:
That is to say,
Undressed myself of laughable prides and infirmities,
But not as a man
Undresses to creep into bed, but like an athlete
Stripping for the race.
The delicate ravel of nerves that made me a measurer
Of certain fictions
Called good and evil; that made me contract with pain
And expand with pleasure;
Fussily adjusted like a little electroscope:
That's gone it is true;
(I never miss it; if the universe does,
How easily replaced!)
But all the rest is heightened, widened, set free.
I admired the beauty
While I was human, now I am part of the beauty.
I wander in the air,
Being mostly gas and water, and flow in the ocean;
Touch you and Asia
At the same moment; have a hand in the sunrises
And the glow of this grass.
I left the light precipitate of ashes to earth
For a love-token.

Robinson Jeffers

Wednesday, November 28, 2007

ICE IS IN!

Fossils sharpen those tools and give Danny one more call.

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Planning a Wall



This a picture of the Kor roof on the South Face of Washington Column. It was the scene of Franklin's freakout in the 1970s, as well as the venue to decide on logistics for the second trip to the Cassin Ridge in the early 1980s. Rumor has it, that the approach to the West Face of Leaning Tower was scouted over Thanksgiving, and that some of the "boys" are in training for a Spring ascent. Hock may even plan a mid-winter trip up the LeConte Memorial Boulder, to work on his aid technique!

Bear Creek Spire



This past summer Ewing bagged the Northeast Ridge of Bear Creek Spire again. In the 1990s this was the scene of a fossil outing starring Danny, Mark, and Hock on the 5.5 route and Michael and Brian on the stout 5.8 North ridge. This summer Mark was joined on the route by Greg De Pascale, a youthful climber, and the proud member of the Order of the Friends of Fossils.

Hosting the Fossil Icefest in the 1990s



Brian - Doctor D - hosted us at his house in Provo, and among other things we did The Great White Icicle

Monday, November 26, 2007

Climbing Competition

Hock clipping bolts in the Gorge, on the way to his first place finish in the Spring Fossil competition.  Who will score the most points in December?  Will Ewing rig the scoring yet again?

Previous Fossil Icefest

Get permission from your family, lock in the dates, and book those tickets!

Sunday, November 25, 2007

Clubhouse at Dawn

Selden is painting the door as I write this posting!

What route are you proudest of?




This is my proudest moment, the Sentinelle Rouge on the Brenva face of Mount Blanc. I did this route in 1977, over 5,000' vertical (right up the middle), unroped and side-by-side with Richard Wilmott from South Africa.

Franklin and the first Icefest




The first Fossil Icefest was held back in our youth. In 1979 Mike Brochu, Michael Franklin, and Hock climbed this classic New England test piece, the Black Dike on Cannon. At the top - shortly before dark - Franklin was so hungry he chomped into my fruitcake and ate it wrapper and all. On the descent by headlamp he decided to bypass the trip to the bottom of the route for his pack, assuming we could come back on our rest day ... of course the pack held the car keys!

Speaking of Michael Franklin



An unknown and unpublished fact ... Michael and I did a new route on the face just above the "W" in west buttress! (To make the picture larger, just click on it.)

The Fossil Tick List

What have I left off? Remember, two or more fossils must have been involved.(When prompted sign in as a guest.)

Saturday, November 24, 2007

Friday, November 23, 2007

Motivational Video

Get Psyched for Ice Climbing


December 14-17 in Lake Placid

Check Climbing Conditions