TACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS: Given that we are old geezers, I would argue two old farts, out for a long day in the mountains do not really have much of a margin for error. Spending a full day scrambling a third class route, with maybe a few short pitches as a rope of two, means that a sprained ankle, tweaked knee, or bum shoulder could have serious consequences. After all, what can the u injured geriatric mountaineer really do? So, I have three tactical suggestions to increase our safety factor.
First, in our sunset years, let's go as a rope of three. Ideally, that rope of three might include someone who could be one-part guide, one-part rope gun, and one-part muscle to carry a heavier pack. As an associated suggestion, could we pay their way, and get Tori, or Larry, or Mickey to do a few routes with us in the Tetons, Chamonix, or the Cordillera Blanca? They get a free trip, in return for 2-3 days with us, and then they arrange for their real partners to meet them. (I believe that Fred Beckey did something like this through his 80s.)
Second, as I have mentioned before in this missive, I believe we need to utilize huts, ski lifts, mules, and a well placed bivy to break these potential mountain routes into bite sized pieces. For instance, I know that I can not do South Teton in a day from the valley. However, turn it into a three day trip … camp in the meadows, climb the peak the next day, then camp in the meadows, and hike out the final day. I AM SURE I COULD DO THAT, especially if a stud like Larry or Tori carried much of the group gear. Of course, in Europe or Canada its even easier; take the Grand Montet ski lift and hike 90 minutes to the hut in Argentiere and spend the night. Climb the standard route, and spend another night, then a short hike to the ski lift on the final day. So, for an associated suggestion; join the American Alpine Club … reduced rates on huts, $5000 in rescue insurance, and $7500 in medical expenses, it to mention library privileges.
The third and final tactical suggestion: we all need to spend more time increasing our fitness. Easy for me to say, as - knock on wood - I have had four years of retirement with good health. My knees and one shoulder are crap, but I have basically been able to train uninterrupted. However, you guys know better than me, that could change tomorrow, if my health goes south. That said, if we are going to have geriatric, big days in the mountains I think we need to build up to a routine of 9-10 hours of exercise a week, aiming at 3-4000' vertical a week, including some flexibility and strength work. Slow and steady; we don't need high intensity exercise at our age; make it fun. Hell, I hate riding an exercise bike, but if I am going to watch a football game, I might as well pedal through the first half!
WE CAN DO THIS.
(I am not going to get up the 5.9 Irene's Arete ever again, but I can certainly climb Disappointment Peak in the Tetons, by the snow filled Spoon Couloir pictured below.)
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