Since late May I have had two delightful trips to the Sierras. Obviously on both trips, the main focus is spending time with Mark (also drinking some whiskey) and reconnecting with his family. The other high points were backcountry skiing in June, practicing self arrests, standing on top of Lassen, as well as three days at Junction with crampons and ice axe in hand. I realized that in spite of college football and lacrosse, running marathons and trail races, biathlon, as well as a zillion ski marathons, ever since 1972 my existential self-definition has been as climber-mountaineer-alpinist.
In reflection, these past few years I have gravitated towards being a generic mountain athlete, with much less emphasis on climbing and mountain adventures. Indeed as I shared with Mark, last year was the first time in decades that I didn't log a single roped pitch. Of course, I have logged quite a few long mountain days, and several "backyard ultra events," where I amass big vert doing mountain laps, assuring me that I am physically ready for a big mountain trip. But, those are not mountain adventures.
So, why this dearth of big mountain trips, this lack of mountain adventure, in these past few years? Well it is easy to pass it off as just the natural function of age. Yet, I truly believe the urge, the need for adventure is still there. Certainly the issue of partners has been a key problem. My fossil climbing group of yesteryear is basically down to me, Mark, Gary, Deaton, and Danny. I am the youngest at 71, and although I have crap knees, everyone else has been battling with more serious health issues. Additionally, and not surprisingly, this has caused us all to be suffering from a severe lack of mountain mojo. And what is that you say, well it's that drive, that little voice in your head, at all times of day and night that says: "So when, what, where, and with who will my next mountain adventure happen, and can I really pull it off?
On the flip side, I have numerous college buddies willing to jump on alpine skiing trips to the Rockies or Alps, with nice hotels and restaurant dinners, but no longer any interest in skiing hut to hut. Sure it's fun, it's in the mountains, and I can log lots of uphill skinning vert … but it not a mountain adventure. Additionally, I do have a group of 40-50 something types, who are fall-back mountain partners. However, families, college tuitions, peak earning years and professional responsibilities all leave them cancelling, and begging off, far too often.
SO, THE MAIN GOAL FOR THE NEXT FIVE YEARS IS TO BE A CLIMBER AGAIN WITH MY FOSSIL BUDDIES.
This will be a three part missive, which continues with followup discussions on: What are our realistic, and specific, possibilities for mountain adventures? What tactical concepts will make success possible in those adventure?
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