Heading to Tocllaraju

At just 6,000 meters it is one of the most sought after Cordillera
peaks. I climbed it six years ago with Larry. The first day involves a
carry and bivouac at about 17-17,500'. The next day involves and
alpine start and a long day getting back to the Refugio. Once
again ... The classic West Face remains undone by me.

Cordillera Blanca Snow

The guys coming down the snowslopes on Urus late in the day. The 6,100
meter Ranralpaca is in the background.

Arrieros

Traditionally the men drive the mules, donkeys, and horses on the
trail, however sometimes it is a family business. As an example our
three hour trip - in and - out of the Ishinca valley cost 70 soles
(about $23) for a driver and two horses.

(As always you may click on the image to enlarge the photograph.)

End of the line

Shortly after noon we completed the three hour hike from Ishinca
valley to Pashpa. Now it's back to Huaraz.

Cafe Andino

Ending our evening with chai and apple pie. The book collection has
quadrupled since my last climbing trip, however the servers are as
cute as ever!

Matt on the summit

After yesterday's debacle on Tocllaraju, Matt feels great on top of
18,300' Urus.

More bouldering

Edward strutting his stuff in sneakers! Not many come to the
Cordillera Blanca for the bouldering, but after the big snow and ice
routes, the boulder problems are awesome.

Just before heading out

As our arrieros were packing up the mules we did some bouldering in
the Ishinca valley ... Edward is giving a hard problem a shot!

Hiking Out

For me the hike out was muy tranquillo, as I walked slowly, took a
bunch of photos, bouldered, and started to mentally transition back to
the office.

The Grade VI, big walls behind me are amazing (a couple of young
American hot-shots did a hard new route two years ago) ... in fact the
Quebrada Ishinca has something for everyone. Hopefully, I will be back
with Lucy.

Urus summit

It's a long story; but between Edward struggling with the altitude at
our 17,000' bivouac, and my tarp getting ripped apart by vicious
winds, we beat a hasty retreat and our last day managed to climb this
18,300' peak.

(As always you may click on the image to enlarge the photograph.)

Team Edelrid

We head out after breakfast. The picture of Zarela's dining room,
mostly occupied by this sponsored group.

Rest Stop on Pisco

Artesonraju is the prominent peak behind Edward.

La Casa de Zarela

Matt waiting for Edward outside the best B&B in the universe! (A
pretty amazing deal at $10 a night.)

Packing Again

La Casa de Zarela is once again the staging ground, as we furiously
weed out stuff for out next trip ... To Ishinca valley. On a different
note, we just had an awesome meal at a new restaurant - Zona Thai -
right next to Cafe Andino.

Arriving on summit

The ascent from our moraine camp to the 18,900' summit of Pisco took
4:45, which included two rest stops.

(As always you may click on the image to enlarge the photograph.)

Nevado Pisco

Early morning glacial climbing, with Matt out on the sharp end.

Sunset on Chopicalqui

This picture was taken from our moraine camp bivouac. Chopicalqui is
6,354 meters, almost 21,000'.

More good eating ...

As you can see, the portion sizes are large. Our lunch consisted of
roast lamb, salad, rice, potato salad, chili con carne, mistakenly a
double order of burritos, and a liter of sangria. We followed this up
with a 90 minute power nap.

Good eating in the Cordillera

We went to a delightful bistro next to La Casa de Las Guias, you can
see them cooking up Matt's lamb in the wood-fired ceramic oven.

The Back Story

A few good meals, lots of oxygen at
10,000', and time for reflection has helped me put it all in
perspective. First, a big mistake to go from Huaraz to 15,700' after
only 36 hours. (I told you so!) Second, we should have decided early
on to bivouac at the moraine camp, after all the guides and
conventional wisdom count for something. (Not really a problem, it
just cost us a day.) Third, on arrival and talking to local sources,
it was clear that Huandoy was out of shape, Chopi had a very
challenging crevassed finish, and we lost our appetite, for the other
alternative of Yanapaccha, when a guy was killed on it while we were
there. (Nothing we could do about any of these.) Fourth, and finally,
the south face of Pisco (pictured) had a moderate face climb that has
been skied, but snow cover seemed thin, and probably too much water
ice for us to tackle safely.

So, we are back in Huaraz, weighing options, and will head to
Tocllaraju tomorrow.

Fossils are a Rare Breed

On our rest day in Huaraz, I was flipping through The La Casa de
Zarela registry ... Not many guys of our vintage doing stuff. So,
kudos to all you 55+ year old climbers, still getting out and about in
the mountains.

Back in Huaraz

Today we were continually reminded that Peru - since colonial times -
has been a very Catholic country. Beginning at sunrise and continuing
all daylong fireworks and sky rockets have been going off in honor of
the saint who is the mother of Mary. In addition bands, small
processions, and special masses have been held at various churches.

Moraine Camp

Most folks climb Pisco, by carrying gear to 4900 meters and spending
the night. This was our camp ... Edward's sleeping bag was not quite
up to the task. Most climbers leave between 2-3 am, we left at 4 am,
and caught one party, and made up a great deal of time on the others.

Heading Down for a Break

Our arriero loading two mules with our gear. After almost a week of
sleeping at 15,700' or higher, it's time for a quick 24 hours in Huaraz.

An Important Book

Bill McKibben's new book - Eaarth - is a must read. The odd title is a
result of his belief that our historic earth ( pre-climate change) no
longer exists, and in fact there really is no going back to the old
earth, and thus we should coin a new name to refer to the planet we
have moving forward.

Spectacular Huandoy Massif

This sunrise shot was taken just outside the Refugio Peru, this view
of the multiple 6,000 meter Huandoy peaks is amazing. However, what
you don't see or hear are the continuous rock fall, nor do you see how
much the retreating glacier has made climbing routes problematic. So,
the bottom line is that the approach to Huandoy Oeste is unsafe and we
have crossed it off our list.

Powered By Cuy

Edward has been convinced that his climbing prowess has been amplified
ten-fold on a steady diet of cuy. This national dish - guinea pig -
looks too much like many class pets I have know; and so on my third
Andean trip I have failed to try it. Edward and Matt both rave about
the subtle flavor, somwhere between rabbit and chicken.

Cordillera Soccer

Edward ran down early to cellopampa, to ask an arriero to come up to
get our gear at 15,700'. He also had to arrange a taxi back to Huaraz,
and a room at La Casa de Zarela's. However, you can see that he also
held his own at the soccer pitch at 13,000' .., what a stud.

Blisters in the Andes

The enclosed picture is of Edward taping a blister on the Pisco
glacier with Huandoy in the background. The official team statistics
are as follows: One peak vs. two bouts of diahhrea, two serious
vomiting episodes, five large foot blisters, and two black toenails.

Amazing Cordillera Views

The summit views from Pisco are intense, behind Matt and Edward are
chacaraju, alpamayo, artesonraju, and piramide.

Weather in the Cordillera Blanca

As you can see from a screen capture of my iPhone, the weather has
been glorious. Of course up at the hut at 15,700' and our bivaouc at
16,700' it has been below freezing each night.

Tagged the summit

The usual intestinal issues (yahoo for the Cipro) and acclimitization
problems slowed us down. However yesterday we had a spectacular climb
up Pisco. It took us just under five hours to tag the summit
(18,900'), which is under guidebook time, and so I believe we are
pretty well adjusted to the altitude. As you can see the solar
radiation is intense (thus my French foreign legion hat) and the
terrain is burly, with the north face of Huascaran behind me ... It's
one of the biggest walls in the world.

Weather looks good in Cordillera

See you in 10 days!

Final Packing

Getting down to the nitty-griity: how many slings, pins, how many gas
canisters, and as always, making sure to pack as much fruitcake as
possible!

Another View

Vallunaraju, Ocshapalca, Ranrapalca, and Rimarima off in the distance.
Churup is patially visible off on the right-hand corner.

Sunrise

We are heading off to Yungay and then to camp at the trailhead at
13,000'. Tomorrow we'll hike to basecamp at 15,700'.

A Reading Rest Day

Spending the afternoon at the California Cafe, then a nap, followed by
dinner at Cafe Andino, and dessert and a movie at Huaraz Satyricon.

La Plaza de Armas

Edward out for a mid-day stretching of legs and some chai at the Cafe
California.

Yoga and Huascaran

Matt strutting his stuff on Zarela's roof.

Morning sun on Huascaran

Edward enjoying the views from Zarela's roof top garden.

Desayuno

The guys having a first breakfast at La Casa de Zarela.

Boarding the Bus

Matt and Edward posing with the mountaineer's statue in the Movril bus
station for good luck.

Most of the gear is Matt's

We are heading over to the bus station for the 8 hour trip to Huaraz.
I got in at 4 AM, and by the time I get to the mountains, I will have
been traveling for 36 hours. (As usual Matt brought everything but the
kitchen sink.)

One more tune-up

I took Lucy and my neice Lizzy up Owl's Head. The boots, while not
fully broken in, do feel good. I am psyched!

Summit Day

Certainly all my fossil friends, and even some of the younger generation know of my penchant for fruitcake. On every serious trip or route it is a staple of Hock's diet, and a sure bet to come along on the summit attempt. Indeed at 3,000 calories per pound, it packs a wallop. The stories of gas laden fruitcake on the West Rib of Denali in the 1970s, or Michael Franklin biting off the top of an "Old Fashioned Claxton Fruit Cake" at the top of the Black Dike on Cannon, swallowing it in one gulp, plastic wrapping and all. Most of you also know that on Christmas Day there is always at least one package underneath the tree. So, even though I'll be toting GU along, you know what I'll be munching on the summit of Huandoy.

Almost Packed

I put it all out last night. The rope stays behind in favor of two 8.5 X 60 meter ropes that Matt has. I will also trim a water bottle, two books, a bit of the rock gear, and possibly the skis and helmet may be left behind. I have a great deal to get done in the office today, and I need to see my dad tomorrow morning who has not been well, and then I fly out of Logan in the late afternoon. I will probably leave here at 4:00 am ... manana.

Our evolving Cordillera Blanca agenda

Final Preparations

I head out in another 36 hours. Yesterday I wore the new mountaineering boots all day, including two short hikes on the NCS super loop and Owl's Head (pictured), and I went over to the can in at sunset to pick up my sleeping bag and some fruitcake for Peru (pictured below).

Must See Movie

The Devil's Miner, is a documentary set in Bolivia although it is equally true of Peru, where in fact, mining is an even bigger industry. The human toll of extractive industries is mind boggling. This is a highly disturbing video, and it makes me feel guilty as hell that I will be climbing in the Cordillera Blanca, while across the valley in the Cordillera Negra these abuses will be going on. You can order this from Netflix or watch it instantly on you computer from Netflix.


CLICK HERE TO WATCH THE TRAILER.