Great article ... So you want to be a ski mountaineer

Another great article from the folks at TGR ...  a great model to quantify your readiness.

https://www.tetongravity.com/feature/ski/feature-journal-so-you-want-to-be-a-ski-mountaineer

Skimo ... the heavyweight manifesto

Well, I do agree with his premise - get yourself leaner and fitter - don’t just purchase the performance enhancement. But, I also don’t believe its an either/or proposition.

My response would be: of course eat your kale, do your single leg squats, and stop your whining, but then add your superlight gear and see what enhanced  backcountry missions you are able to tackle!

Great day in the Bridger Mountains

Yesterday, I did a three hour run/hike with spectacular views of Bridger Bowl, Ross Peak (left), Sacajawea (right), and Absarokas off in the distance. This is my final morning in Bozeman before I head home, and I still have not come up with a workout plan!

The art of getting shafted in the mountains ...

The article shared by the folks from TGR is written from the perspective of a skier, but you can easily substitute the word alpinist and it applies just as well.

https://www.tetongravity.com/feature/ski/feature-journal-the-art-of-getting-shafted

A great morning in Bozeman ...

After my daughter - a ratchet strap ninja - moved a used mattress into her apartment, she went for a 2.5 hour rollerski. During the rest of the morning, I did a boulder tour of the various climbing structures in city parks. A 75 minute run in Sourdough Canyon is on my agenda ... after a nap.

Excellent workouts in Bozeman

Sandwiched between an oil change, grocery shopping, picking up a rental car, and greeting Lucy's ski buddies at the airport; I did an excellent strength workout and an hour long run up Kirk Hill and into Hodgeman Canyon.

Bozeman is definitely feeling like a wonderful spot.

Yesterday afternoon in Bozeman

We moved Lucy's stuff into her - awesome - apartment, she unpacked and I took a nap. She ran for an hour, and I did the classic short hike up to the M, which has wonderful views, although as you can imagine quite popular on a sunny afternoon.

On our way driving to Bozeman we got terrific views of the Absaroka range, which still has an impressive amount of snow.

Bozeman by noon!

This afternoon Lucy will move into her apartment, shared with three other nordic skiers. Tomorrow she will start training as part of the Crosscut Mountain Sports Biathlon Team. Yahoo ... back in BIG SKY COUNTRY.

We will be in Mountain Time Zone pretty soon!

Cruising through North Dakota and hoping to sleep just inside the Montana border. Yesterday we did a good run in the Black Falls State Forest.

We hope to arrive in Bozeman on Tuesday afternoon.

MOVIE OF THE DAY .... aac alpinists at large 1981

The second dip into the American Alpine Club archives ... one of the first climbing expeditions to China when it was opened up to western mountaineers.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=emb_title&v=znTalqIejgU

1400 miles to go

After sleeping in Rochester Friday night, yesterday we cruised through Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, and stopped at the Illinois doorstep. Late afternoon, we took a run and did some core exercises in the Pokagon State Forest. An hour later in Elkhart we passed up the RV Museum for some takeout pizza. We finished our full Saturday in a brutal thunderstorm; someone mentioned how lucky we were, because it was actually a tornado warning ... needless to say we had no idea.

On our way to Bozeman ...

Only 25 hours of driving left!

Heading to Bozeman

Yesterday, I had two good workouts before this 2300 mile drive  ... laps on Owls Head with a 15 pound pack, and later in the day some ergometer and yoga.

The Winter Army

I just started reading this new book about the 10th Mountain Division by Maurice Isserman, the historian from Hamilton College.  He has also authored CONTINENTAL DIVIDE: a history of american mountaineering, as well as FALLEN GIANTS: a history of Himalayan mountaineering. I have read both of those books - which were excellent - and so I am looking forward to THE WINTER ARMY.

MOVIE OF THE DAY ... paul preuss, free soloing the impossible



A short interview with David Smart, who authored the book Lord Of The Abyss, about Paul Preuss. Preuss was light-years ahead of his climbing contemporaries in both ability and vision. He was an early advocate of what we know today as "clean climbing," and you can see in his writing the beginnings of what Messner would write - decades later - in the "Murder Of The Impossible." 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lsTs5MSMK8w&feature=emb_title

MTB is not the most specific for the mountain athlete but the training wheels are off

Day two, and I am off our cow pasture and on to the Olympic nordic trails. Petrified of the steep downhills which I walk, and occasionally miss the shift on some steep uphills. A good alternative for for easy days, and easy on knees after a big uphill day.

COMING HOME - Ag Teacht Abhaile

An ultra-runner who grew up in Wexford, Ireland and lives and works in San Francisco, decides to go home and visit his mom and dad and run the Wicklow Round ... 26 peaks in under 24 hours ... and just maybe get tHE FKT in the bargain.



https://vimeo.com/dooster/cominghome

MOVIE OF THE DAY ... the white ecstasy

The genre of German bergfilm, in the 1920s, is their mountaineering version of the American western. Arnold Franck is the most famous Director, and this short clip offers amazing footage of the early Arlberg days of skiing. For those pining over a ski season curtailed, imagine skiing powder with period gear.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eDLIX5hp1R4

3k Uphill time trial with pack ...

Every couple of weeks I have done this same course on a dirt road, which has a 600 foot elevation gain. I started with 15 pounds, and today I carried 25 pounds of water up, in just under 30 minutes.

Next week I am going to move to a different course, with steeper, and rockier footing. The goal - from Steve House's, Training For The Uphill Athlete - is to build more muscular endurance. Who knows when, but I expect to be climbing in the Sierras sometime in the next couple of months.

MOVIE OF THE DAY ... latok 1978



From the archives of the American Alpine Club comes the amazing story of the best climb ever ... that failed to reach the summit. A must see. 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=B4XmZfIDfVY

MOVIE OF THE DAY ... choosing to live

I hardly ever ride my mountain bike; it just sits in the garage gathering dust. However, this compelling story, and spectacular images got me to rethink that. 



https://vimeo.com/411086335

Pre-race checks for the next nordic season ...

MOVIE OF THE DAY ... bouldering on owls head

I carried 28 pounds of water on the hike up, as a warmup; I then climbed up, down, and all around for 30 minutes. A great way to spend an hour and a half on a beautiful day.

https://vimeo.com/418865975

Chic-chocs will have to wait until next year

I have been tracking the weather in the Gaspe, and it will be sunny all next week. Perfect weather and backcountry ski conditions, but with Covid-19 and borders closed, its obviously not going to happen.

What a difference 24 hours makes

So for the 7th week in a row, our week began with Sunday-Monday-Tuesday snow squalls. The sun would peak out for a bit, melt some of the snow accumulation - you would put on shorts or wheel your bike out - and then just as you began the squall moved back in again. But Wednesday it was glorious ... a morning bouldering and a delightful afternoon run on Bartlett Road.

MOVIE OF THE DAY ... skiing the Lhotse Face

A good story, a big obvious ski line, and a good diversion for those wishing they were headed up to Tuckermans Ravine this weekend. 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=wPXSFVruIHI

YAHOO ... Lucy is a college graduate

No sheepskin yet, and of course, no ceremony and hoopla. 

However, Lucy got a thumbs up on her oral defense of her thesis.  She did all the final grading for the course she was a TA in, and she turned in her final thesis draft yesterday.  Lucy got two awards from the nordic team (one by vote of coaches and the other by teammates), and she was a fall inducted into Phi Beta Kappa ... not too shabby.

So, she is teaming up with other nordic skiers searching for an apartment in Bozeman, and she is beginning to pack for the big drive, and move out west. 

A Treasure Trove Of Climbing Essays



Googling a Banff Award magazine article I discovered this treasure trove on the ROCK AND ICE WEBSITE. In this time of lockdown and stay at home policies, I trust most of us have a bit more time to read .... check it out ... I'll suggest starting with Jeff Long's, " Searching For Superman."

https://rockandice.com/stories/features/

Reflections on frailty of lightweight skimo gear

https://www.powder.com/gear-locker/how-a-close-call-in-la-grave-changed-my-thoughts-about-bindings/?utm_campaign=later-linkinbio-powdermagazine&utm_content=later-6756130&utm_medium=social&utm_source=instagram

History on the Headwall of Tuckerman Ravine

Obviously we won't be dropping over the headwall this Memorial Day, but hopefully in the spring of 2021, Left Gully will have my name on it.

https://backcountrymagazine.com/stories/history-on-the-headwall-mt-washingtons-tuckerman-ravine/

Spring in the Adirondacks

It is not that unusual, so I think I may head out to ski up the Whiteface Toll Road.

MOVIE OF THE DAY ... third man on the mountain



This engaging Disney movie is suitable for the hardcore climber, as well as a family looking for an entertaining Friday night, family movie. For climbers familiar with the alps, you will immediately recognize that most of the off mountain video was shot in Zermatt, and all the climbing sequences are from Chamonix. The movie is a Disney version of the novel Banner In The Sky, which was loosely based on the 1865 ascent of the Matterhorn. The movie may be rented for $2.99 from Amazon, YouTube, or iTunes. 

Enjoy; this was my first introduction to climbing back in the late 1950s. (Although, I guess the Matterhorn ride in Disneyland was really my introduction to the sport!)

Lucy headed to Bozeman with one-eye on Beijing 2022

In America there are a half dozen, sponsored teams which function as home-base for nordic and biathlon Olympians, as well as incubators for those hoping to make the jump to that next level.  Yesterday, Lucy was asked to join one of those teams ... Crosscut Mountain Sports elite team ... https://www.crosscutmt.org/

2020-21 Elite Crosscut Mountain Sports Nordic and Biathlon Team

WOMEN

Hannah Cole (2020 Crosscut, 2017 podium NCAA Champs, World Cups starts)

Anna French (Raced xc-indoor-outdoor track for MSU, high school all-State nordic)

Felicia Gesior (Crosscut, top ten in Birkebeiner, NCAA Champs, World Cups starts)

Kendall Gretsch (US Paralympic Team, gold medalist 2018 Olympics )

LUCY (NCAA Champs, World Junior Biathlon Team, 10th national Biathlon points list)

Mikayla Maier (2020 Crosscut, ranked 13th on biathlon national points list)

Oksana Masters (US Paralympic Team, gold medalist 2018 Olympics)

Anna Sellers (Canadian, still U23 competitor, World Junior Biathlon Champs since 2017)

Ingrid Thyr (2020 NCAA Champs alternate, and 17th ranked EISA skier)

Ariana Woods (Still a U23 racer, ranked second junior on National Biathlon points list)

MEN

Vincent Bonacci (A U23 racer, and a top junior with World Junior Champs experience)

Luke Brown (US Biathlon Development Team, IBU Cup and World Cup starts)

Max Durtchi (US Biathlon Team, World Cup and World Championship starts)

Christian Gostout (Bowdoin graduate with top 30 at NCAA Champs)

Scott Lacy (Recovered from 2018 knee surgery, 29 year old former NCAA All-American)

Aaron Pike (US Paralympic Team, top ten 2018 Olympics, bronze medal 2019 Worlds)

Ruslan Reiter (US Paralympic Team, top ten, three top 20 results in 2018 Olympics)

Ty Wiberg (US Paralympic Team, a junior racing nordic world cups since 2019)

Bouldering at the gym

Given my desire to do some alpine rock routes later this summer or fall, I have started back climbing at High Peaks Cyclery. (The store is open for limited hours, and I am going to go once or twice a week, when there is nobody else around.)

Ski mountaineering and the case for skinny, not fat skis



An interesting concept; perhaps even more important, if your main goal is climbing, and not powder.  Skimo boards are light, which is a real plus if you are already caring ropes and a climbing rack. Moreover, skimo racing boots are light and perfect for ice or mixed climbing routes. And yes, you won't have a powder orgasm after your climb, however you will make it down to catch the last telepherique. 

https://www.wildsnow.com/28035/the-virtues-of-little-skis-in-big-peaks-a-conversation/

MOVIE OF THE DAY ... advanced rappel techniques



As we gear up for the rock climbing season, it's worth 12 minutes to brush up on safe rappel technique. DON'T DIE ON RAPPEL.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0qgygg8pzGI

  

Summit Mount Van Hoevenberg

A nice day, with wonderful views of Algonquin, Colden, Marcy, and Gothics.

Climbing, skiing, and trail running ... positive self talk for performance

No matter whether you are prepping for the Olympic Biathlon mass start, your first 5k fun run, the crux pitch on a new route, or a pre-dinner jog, your inner dialog has consequences. 

https://trailrunnermag.com/training/performance-enhancing-thoughts.html

BLAST FROM THE PAST ... 2010 Olympics and history of skiing

Nick Paumgarten has been writing for the New Yorker for almost two decades.  His range and beat is extensive, but he does a particularly good job in his stories about skiing and climbing.  

As he muses about the origins of the sport he quotes a famous line from Nansen,  a historical Norwegian ski god: "It is better to go skiing and think of God than to go to church and think of sport."  However, he fails to make the connection that not only did Nansen ski across Greenland, but on a visit to America he was the first Person to ski up Whiteface. 

A wonderful and breezy history of the sport, it's competitions, trends, and outlying activities like ski mountaineering. Well worth your time.

https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2010/03/15/the-ski-gods