Quote Of The Week ... Bernard Amy

From the short story, "The Greatest Climber In The World" which is set in Chamonix:

"Standing in the Place de la Poste, I tasted that moment, certain that a beautiful day was about to unfold. I was going to be able to enjoy it without any reservations, to abandon myself to idleness while still retaining on my fingertips the memory of
the rock and the wind from the heights."

This was from Mountain #24 in 1972.  Today, we drove back from the east side of the Sierras to Lake Tahoe, and we are able to enjoy the day, and several others, as we abandon ourselves to idleness.

Nevada Falls: day 11 in the Sierras

Mark, Liz, and I drove down to the floor of the valley. Saw the amazing views and the Big Stone. Remembered our shared climbs on: Middle Cathedral, Washington's Column, base of El Cap, Manure Pile Buttress, the Brothers, Royal Arches, and Church Bowl Chimney.

I did a steep ten mile hike, snapped some great pictures of the backside of Half Dome where the snake dike is. Vernal and Nevada Falls were awesome, the Misty Trail was incredibly crowded, but coming down the JMT was a pleasure.

Day Ten in the Sierras ... back again to the cirque below Mount Connes

This time the hike was just a prelude to several hours of wandering, yoga, tai chi, and bouldering. A great outing.

Day Nine in the Sierras ... hiking the John Muir Trail in Lyell Canyon

Well, we finally got to use our reservations to enter Yosemite National Park. On the left is Unicorn and on the right is Cathedral Peak. (I have climbed the south buttress route of Cathedral probably six or seven times.)

Our hike to Tuolumne Pass was spectacular, and one I have never done.

Day 8 in the Sierras ... rest and recovery

A bit of tai chi, lots of reading, as well as a trip to Lee Vining for food and to catch up on email. Of course, lots of talk about our upcoming three day pass to The Valley.

Conness and day seven in the Sierras

We did a three hour hike up to the pass which gains access to the long summit plateau of Conness. A bit of a late start, and different fitness levels, precluded the summit. It was a terrific day, and I was able to do some tai chi on my return. (I will make another trip into the cirque and bring my rock slippers, as there are some super boulders.)

East Side Of The Sierras ... day six

Once again I started with yoga, and after a casual morning we headed over to June Lake and while Mark and Danny fished, I did a nice stiff hike up to Agnew Lake.

Day Five ... in the Sierras

As with most days, I have started with tai chi and yoga. Today's agenda was hiking around Saddlebag Lake and getting to the base of North Peak and getting on snow. The goal was to see how my approach shoes with crampons performed, as opposed to my mountain boots.

The Sierras ... day 4

A decent night sleeping at 9200' however we didn't put up the tent, so I was a tad chilly. I did tai chi, an easy trail run, and also a hike up to Gardisky Lake.

Day 2 in the Sierras

A bit of tai chi, a 40 minute run, and an hour of rock climbing. However, most of the day was shopping, debating, and planning two weeks on the East side of the Sierras and Yosemite.

Day 3 and we are camped just outside Yosemite

Before we drove down I did some tai chi and a run on the Western States Trail.

Day 2 in the Sierras

Mostly continued planning, debating, and sorting gear for the east side of the Sierras and Yosemite. Mark managed to score a three day entry pass into the national park.

I did a half hour of tai chi, a 40 minute run, and loads of laps at Kindergarten Slabs (Donner Summit) pictured below.

First warmup hike in the Sierras

As always struggling with jet lagged, and so I was up at 3:30am. A great first hike - I felt good - and had about 30 minutes of fast paced level 3&4. Totals: 10k, and 2000' vertical in just under 2.5 hours, and topping out at 8200 feet. Great views from High Camp and I had the pleasure of watching (and having a few words with) last year's Western State 100 winner as she zoomed by me ... presumably some fine tuning for next week's race.

Arrived in Squaw Valley

Troubling Trends On Denali



Heading to the Sierras

If all goes well, I should be in Squaw Valley with Mark for a late supper. Last week I had high volume (16 hours) but lower intensity, and so I am feeling ready for some alpine starts and long days. First up ... hoping to climb, Lassen Peak pictured below. 

An ode to John Bachar ... a great short essay

https://www.adventure-journal.com/2021/06/historical-badass-climber-john-bachar/ 



On one of my first days in The Valley I remember climbing "Reeds' Pinnacle Direct" with Mark - a classic 5.10a hand and fist crack - and thinking I had arrived.  However, looking down from the belay I saw Bachar and Kauk free soloing the route, which sort of put things in a different perspective.  After some chit-chat, I mentioned they could use our rappel rope, and my mind was blown with, "thanks, but no need, this is way too casual."  (Of course, there were other historical badasses in the 1970-80s; certainly Hot" Henry Barber was one of them, as he proceeded to blow peoples doors off in Yosemite, as well as the Gunks, North Conway, Britain, and Australia.)  

Glacial Algae Bloom

https://www.nytimes.com/2021/06/11/science/watermelon-snow-algae-glacier-blood.html?action=click&module=Science%20%20Technology&pgtype=Homepage

Excellent short article ... training at altitude

https://www.irunfar.com/steep-and-high-aerobic-training-strategies-for-mountains-and-altitude

Cool and breezy ... perfect Adirondack weather

Yesterday's fantastic weather kept the bugs at bay. I had a great hike from the farm to the summit of Mount Van Hoevenberg, and back.  I finished off the day with some tai chi. Metaphorically, I am easing up on the gas pedal, cutting back on volume and intensity, so I arrive out west rested and ready to go.

Trail Running In The Japanese Alps

https://vimeo.com/487691322 

Good interval workout

Well, while the US Biathlon Team was doing level 3 rollerski intervals, and testing lactate, I was on the upper portion - grassy - of the competition trails. Running the uphills and walking flats and downhills for recovery, provided a great 75 minute workout.

BLAST FROM THE PAST ... trucker skis and Ramer bindings

I think Powder Magazine is now defunct, however they are making select early issues available on-line.  I spotted this ad in the November 1978 issue.  Mark was skiing on Trucker skis then with three pins, and I had (and still have) Ramer bindings mounted on my dad's old Rossi stratos.

Getting ready to taper before my Sierra trip

Unwittingly, last week functioned as something of a recovery week (14+ hours). I took two rest days, and another day with just an unusual single session ... as I felt so crappy after my shingles shot.

It did spark some serious reflections though. The previous six weeks I logged 15.5 hours of training per week, which averages out to an 800 hour, yearly training volume. And while I averaged 750 training hours last year, even that may be too big, and represents a non-sustainable training load ... aging is real.

So, for special occasions - prepping or doing an ultra, maybe traveling to far off mountains - a 15 to 20 hour week might be fine, however the norm for me should probably be a 13-14 hour training week.

Iron and Silk

I found an on-line copy of Mark Salzman's page turner, so I am re-reading it for the third or forth time.  For those more visually inclined, the film - which is quite good - is available on YouTube.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cOIbalP7dj8

Book review of The Third Pole

I have read quite a large armload of Everest books, and read a kindle sample of this one recently. I put it on my list, but with this review, I think I might elevate it into the "must have for my collection" category.

https://www.wildsnow.com/29488/book-review-everest-third-pole/#more-29488

The importance of debriefing your adventure near misses

A podcast well worth listening to ...

https://www.thesharpendpodcast.com/episode-62

Unboxing the PDG bindings ...

This line of Dynafit products are named after the famous skimo race from Zermatt to Verbier. I have now almost completed a pure skimo race kit. My PDG skis are 800 grams and the bindings are 115 grams ... still looking for used PDG boots and a narrow pair of ski crampons.

Racing will not be the prime usage, but skinning up various piste will. I imagine next season I will get an uphill season pass at Middlebury Snow Bowl ($30), and Whiteface, or maybe Titus. (However, I am hoping to do a couple mid-week races at Bolton Valley, also the Gothic Mountain Tour, and possibly the Sellaronda Skimarathon if I get to the Dolomites.)

View from Mount Moosalamoo

ALPINIST #74 ... excellent issue

I just got my issue in the mail a few days ago, and so I have not really dug deeply yet, but I am excited and delighted to have it on my bedside table. Reading Doug Robinson's essay, evokes memories of my own climbing mentors as well as memories of past Sierra adventures. (Of course, I am leaving for the Sierras in two weeks, so it is also causing me to salivate for what is to come.)

Other articles I am looking forward to are: the mountain profile of Slesse, a short missive about hobnail boots, climbing reflections on the Needles in the Black Hills of South Dakota, and an article by mountaineering historian Bernadette McDonald.