Wednesday, August 3, 2016
Tuesday, August 2, 2016
Next year turning 65 ... calling all Fossils to Chamonix ... Who is in?
Nine days ... Two for travel ... Two for rest, recovery, or rain ... Five routes.
1. Aiguille de Index ... 4 pitches, 5.6
2. Cosmique ArĂȘte ... mixed, steep snow and 3 pitches 5.5 with crampons on
3. Pointe Lachenal traverse ... Snow ridge and long 5.4 pitch with crampons on
4. Geant-Rochefort traverse ... Snow ridge and 5 pitches 5.6 (This is the first route Mark and I ever did together.)
5. Chere couloir ... 6 pitches, NEI 3+/4
Ski lifts make each approach and descent under an hour. This trip has a high fun factor, and minimum wear and tear on knees, shoulders, and lungs! (The pictures above are from the Chere Couloir, just 45 minutes from tram.)
Of course there are all kinds of stout routes we could do, if we feel fit and want to stretch ourselves a bit!
1. Aiguille de Index ... 4 pitches, 5.6
2. Cosmique ArĂȘte ... mixed, steep snow and 3 pitches 5.5 with crampons on
3. Pointe Lachenal traverse ... Snow ridge and long 5.4 pitch with crampons on
4. Geant-Rochefort traverse ... Snow ridge and 5 pitches 5.6 (This is the first route Mark and I ever did together.)
5. Chere couloir ... 6 pitches, NEI 3+/4
Ski lifts make each approach and descent under an hour. This trip has a high fun factor, and minimum wear and tear on knees, shoulders, and lungs! (The pictures above are from the Chere Couloir, just 45 minutes from tram.)
Of course there are all kinds of stout routes we could do, if we feel fit and want to stretch ourselves a bit!
Monday, August 1, 2016
Sunday, July 31, 2016
An environmental dystopia ... RUIN and ROSE
http://youtu.be/I5eteKwALBA
A surreal future leaves the world without water and consumed by sand: the Big Empty. A group of children survives alone on the edge of the endless desert in the ruin of the now. When a young boy unearths an ancient relic hinting at the lost wonders of winter, he sets off in search of the ghosts that once called the mountains their home. This bold cinematic experience balances stunning skiing with a wild and hopeful journey into the forgotten lands of myth and magic beyond the Empty.
Saturday, July 30, 2016
Friday, July 29, 2016
BLAST FROM THE PAST ... guiding in 1988
One of my former students found an itinerary for the seven week mountaineering program I ran back in my youth.
Thursday, July 28, 2016
Wednesday, July 27, 2016
Tuesday, July 26, 2016
Sobering analysis of the economic impact of climate change
What if all the western states did this type of analysis, what would the cumulative total look like? Very sobering; take the time to read this short essay ...
http://adventure-journal.com/2016/07/montana-measures-cost-of-climate-change-and-it-aint-pretty/
http://adventure-journal.com/2016/07/montana-measures-cost-of-climate-change-and-it-aint-pretty/
Monday, July 25, 2016
Books about Ed Abbey
There was a time when I devoured all he wrote from Desert Solitaire to Fire On The Mountain, to the Monkey Wrench Gang and Hayduke Lives ... does it still have any relevance?
http://adventure-journal.com/2016/07/is-there-anything-left-to-be-learned-from-ed-abbey/
http://adventure-journal.com/2016/07/is-there-anything-left-to-be-learned-from-ed-abbey/
Saturday, July 23, 2016
Friday, July 22, 2016
Thursday, July 21, 2016
BLAST FROM THE PAST ... Jon Waterman
Looks like my old climbing buddy celebrated his 60th on the summit of Denali.
From about 1976-1982 we saw a lot of each other. The winter I was caretaker at the Harvard Cabin we climbed a massive amount of ice, from Dracula to the Cilley-Barber route. He got me an interview at the Colorado Outward Bound School, and after some winter courses one year we did the Rigid Designator. We climbed some winter routes in Scotland and Chamonix. Back then he was a very modest rock climber and skier, but he was a beast humping loads, breaking trail, running it out on vertical ice, and holding his liquor in the Clachaig Inn. On a long Thanksgiving run in Crested Butte he even dangled a spot on his winter trip to the Cassin Ridge; however after he told me about a Denali summit maximum-minimum thermometer bottoming out, I told him I was going to race the ski marathon circuit.
A nice article on the Wild Snow website:
https://www.wildsnow.com/20654/jonathan-waterman-returns-to-denali/
From about 1976-1982 we saw a lot of each other. The winter I was caretaker at the Harvard Cabin we climbed a massive amount of ice, from Dracula to the Cilley-Barber route. He got me an interview at the Colorado Outward Bound School, and after some winter courses one year we did the Rigid Designator. We climbed some winter routes in Scotland and Chamonix. Back then he was a very modest rock climber and skier, but he was a beast humping loads, breaking trail, running it out on vertical ice, and holding his liquor in the Clachaig Inn. On a long Thanksgiving run in Crested Butte he even dangled a spot on his winter trip to the Cassin Ridge; however after he told me about a Denali summit maximum-minimum thermometer bottoming out, I told him I was going to race the ski marathon circuit.
A nice article on the Wild Snow website:
https://www.wildsnow.com/20654/jonathan-waterman-returns-to-denali/
Wednesday, July 20, 2016
The new issue of Ascent
Having overcome my addiction to climbing magazines, an affliction with which I have struggled for several decades. My daughter bought me this magazine for my birthday. I have to say it was a real gem, and well worth buying. For fossils the article by Bridwell about trundling in the valley, the article by David Roberts reflecting on his ascent long ago of Mount Deborah, and Jeff Long's article about Fritz Stammberger will all resonate.
But I promise, I have control of my addiction and am currently only purchasing issues of the Alpinist and Vertical.
But I promise, I have control of my addiction and am currently only purchasing issues of the Alpinist and Vertical.
Tuesday, July 19, 2016
Blast From The Past ... Central Buttress of Scafell
I wanted to climb this route so badly on my first climbing trip to the Lake District in 1977. Unfortunately, I could not find a partner to do this historic route that was first climbed in 1914 ... amazingly stout and bold ... Herford in the first ascent party was killed in The Great War.
Monday, July 18, 2016
Saturday, July 16, 2016
Another classic route for the bucket list
East Ridge of Edith Cavell ... III 5.3
Check out some other moderate ridge routes in the Canadian Rockies ...
http://gripped.com/news/five-must-climb-canadian-alpine-ridges/
Check out some other moderate ridge routes in the Canadian Rockies ...
http://gripped.com/news/five-must-climb-canadian-alpine-ridges/
Friday, July 15, 2016
Thursday, July 14, 2016
Long, bold, serious ... The time may have passed for those type of alpine routes but ...
There can still be great pleasure and satisfaction in seeking out those stunning easy alpine routes all over the world. This one has been on my bucket list for a long time.
Sketches from the Bugaboos from Luke Humphrey on Vimeo.
Sketches from the Bugaboos from Luke Humphrey on Vimeo.
Wednesday, July 13, 2016
Tuesday, July 12, 2016
A great birthday ...
With this gift I am starting to plan my climbing trip to Chamonix for my 65th birthday next year. Just like my first trip 40 years ago, next year I will be looking at the classics. I think the days of dreaming about long, hard, committing, and solo routes will have to wait until the next life. So, I am not looking at the supercouloir, route choice will be more like the Rochefort Ridge which I first did with El Presidente.
Lucy got me a selection of climbing magazines to fuel the fire, and wrote a very thoughtful card about our recent trip to the Sierras. Jon and Amanda gave me a classic book by Doug Scott, I got a pair of running shorts, as well as Patagucci stand-up shorts from our pets. Finally, the surprise of the evening, were two West Wing (I am such a fanatic) photographs inscribed by Martin Sheen ... "What's Next."
Lucy got me a selection of climbing magazines to fuel the fire, and wrote a very thoughtful card about our recent trip to the Sierras. Jon and Amanda gave me a classic book by Doug Scott, I got a pair of running shorts, as well as Patagucci stand-up shorts from our pets. Finally, the surprise of the evening, were two West Wing (I am such a fanatic) photographs inscribed by Martin Sheen ... "What's Next."
Monday, July 11, 2016
Light and fast on Foraker
Colin Haley breaks down the details of his recent solo of the Infinite spur (yellow). He puts in the perspective of a 2016 elite alpinist and judges it, not to be such a big deal ... wow, not sure I agree with that! A good read about the top end of our sport.
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/colin-haley-solo-fast-and-light-on-the-infinite-spur-in-alaska.html
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/colin-haley-solo-fast-and-light-on-the-infinite-spur-in-alaska.html
Sunday, July 10, 2016
Whiteface Sufferfest ... 4K, 3300', soggy turf and mud, with 100% humidity
I grabbed the pictures off the race site, as obviously I was miles behind Kasie Enman (2011 World Mountain Running Champion) when she passed the top of the Facelift chair (halfway)! Too bad nobody got pictures on the steepest bits pulling up on tufts of grass and rocks to make forward progress.
A first for me, as I was the oldest participant by a decade.
A first for me, as I was the oldest participant by a decade.
Saturday, July 9, 2016
Friday, July 8, 2016
Run/Boulder combo
A nice 3K run from the Rockefeller House to the NCS crag, change shoes and do five laps on an easy 5.2 route, and then another 1.5k run to my office ... Change into work clothes and I am good to go ... Finished the day with another 3k run home.
Wednesday, July 6, 2016
BLAST FROM THE PAST
One of several iconic posters that helped fuel the running boom in the 1970s. Now the real question is, was the Nike Waffle Trainer the best shoe I ever owned, or the shoe that launched my chronic knee pain?
Tuesday, July 5, 2016
Monday, July 4, 2016
Sunday, July 3, 2016
Saturday, July 2, 2016
Coming back from a run on the biathlon trails
Selden's farm is looking pretty nice. I spent an hour reading at the cabin ... A pretty nice way to end the work day!
Friday, July 1, 2016
Thursday, June 30, 2016
Wednesday, June 29, 2016
Himalayan Viagra
If truth be told some fossils support Big Pharma with their purchases of viagra, but who has tried the Himalayan Viagra?
http://mobile.nytimes.com/2016/06/27/world/asia/himalayan-viagra-climate-change.html?smid=tw-nytimesworld&smtyp=cur&referer=
http://mobile.nytimes.com/2016/06/27/world/asia/himalayan-viagra-climate-change.html?smid=tw-nytimesworld&smtyp=cur&referer=
Tuesday, June 28, 2016
Monday, June 27, 2016
Sunday, June 26, 2016
Beautiful Adirondack summer day
After schmoozing with Treetops parents I went for an easy hike on our campus perimeter and did some easy laps on our crag.
Saturday, June 25, 2016
Friday, June 24, 2016
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