Gervasutti Pillar TD+ (Fr Alpine)
One of the great classics of the range. Fine climbing on the pillar followed by some tricky route finding to reach the summit.
An early start is essential to minimise the risk of stonefall in the entry couloir - this is a very nasty place as the sun hits the upper part of the face first thing in the morning.
From the rimaye, a tricky few steps op to a narrow ledge gets you up out of the couloir where you can gear up in safety. From here climb an easy pitch to a larger ledge then a harder pitch up and round to the left to gain the crest of the ridge via an off-width crack. Enjoy the next several hundred meters of climbing on this magnificent pillar passing a letterbox and finally a series of strenuous crack pitches to arrive at a ledge from where a hard crack (three pegs if still there) goes up left onto another part of the pillar.
This is much harder than the previous difficulties and need not be attempted. Rather go right and slightly downwards to pass the main pillar via a couloir full of giant detatched blocks (remains of ancient fixed ropes) . Climb uo to the col which marks the end of the pillar and continue until you reach a drop (15m or so). Rap down an then climb the left hand of two obvious corner cracks. From the top of this follow a shattered (or snow filled?) couloir up right to another col. Cross the col and cilimb to the summit.
Descend easily via the normal route.
Guidebook time 10-12 hours from the rimaye to the summit.
This route is one of the easiest Grade V's in California. It is also one of the most enjoyable big walls in the High Sierra due to its relative ease and beautiful wilderness surroundings. Despite its original rating ( V, 5.7, A2 ), there is virtually no aid climbing except for one short tension traverse which also goes free ( A0 or 5.9 ). Weekend climbers wanting to test their skills on a long route will find this climb a great adventure. This is one of the longest walls in the High Sierra - over 3000'!
Travel to NYC and the closing week of school meant precious little time to exercise. I managed one short bouldering session and three aerobic sessions on the rowing machine. The picture is from the South face of the Aiguille du Midi (Rebuffat route). The photo is from pitch four (I think), and it is on the Larry/Hock hit list.
The NCS term is coming to a close, so there will be little aerobics during the coming week. however, last week I did 18 short moderate laps on the crag (mostly in mountain boots) as well as seven 30-40 minute aerobic workouts.(The Matterhorn could be on our second week "hit-list," this is a mid-week webcam picture. Click on the photo to enlarge it.)
Gary on the sharp end ... the NCS crag was wet and slimy but he handled it in style.
The black flies were brutal, but Hock and Gary had a great afternoon. They logged 15 short moderate pitches. 
The Hochschartner and Ewing families vacationing in the Sierras. Memory has it that Jon was 2 years old!
Today's website picture from Chamonix. It seems that spring is coming to the lower reaches of the glacier, can anyone join us in late June?
Heel hooking on the awkward 5.7 - 5.8 problem.
Greg - one of our younger Fossil Friends - just received an American Alpine research grant to study the Palisade Glacier in the Sierras. Rumor has it that the Fossils may have their gear cared in by horses with all the scientific instruments.
At the crag!
Larry and I have confirmed passage from NYC - Geneva from June 17 - July 2. (Click on the picture to enlarge the webcam photo of Chamonix from this morning.)
Reggie and Hock on top of Owl's Head, where Hock did five laps of the 5.2 corner. This week included: 6 short easy pitches (one on the sharp end); three 20-30 minute bouldering sessions; 7 short aerobic sessions (30-40 minutes). Are you getting off the couch? (Click on the picture to enlarge the photo.)
This is an iPhone photo of an amazing large format photograph. Come on up and visit the campus.
Larry and I will spend most of our time in June at the Cosmique Hut, however this is where we will camp when in town.
The picture from the Torino Hut. The prominent spire is the Geant, a 4000M peak which was the first route that Hock and Mark did together over 30 years ago!
This was a photo taken this afternoon from one of the ski lifts. The end of June looks like a "go." So, only six weeks to get fit, buy tickets to Geneva, sharpen the tools, and do some rock climbing. 
Selden and I spent 24 hours at Mohonk as I had some professional meetings to attend. Sunday yielded some nice bouldering, while Monday was quite rainy. Brian climbed last week ... where are the photos? (Click on the photo to enlarge the image.)
(Click to enlarge photo.) A picture of a portion of the NCS campus, with a view of Whiteface off in the distance. The center of the photo is the Trouble Slabs with an easy 5.2 route (80'). In the lower corner is the Ski Hill Crag which is 40' high and has about twenty routes from 5.4-5.11a.
The Chere Couloir, just a short approach from the hut. 
Well I don't drop the knee as deeply as I used too, and I certainly do not do a lead change as quickly, however I still manage to ski the steep slopes competently. 
Gary cruising up the 1200' North face of Gothics a couple of weeks ago. This thinly iced, 45-50 degree face, is one of the premier winter alpine routes in the Adirondacks.
The skiing at Alta has been fantastic ... 21 inches of new powder in 
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