New Year's Eve

The buffet at the clubhouse ... The cabin is ready to go, the ice is
better than antime in the past decade AND we are not getting any
younger. Come on up to the north country.

Ewing Goes 1-4

In 1982 Mark went head-to-head in the California Gold Rush ski marathon and beat Hock. (Of course, Hock insanely went out with the lead pack of Olympians and national team members, and died after the first 25K.) However, since then in the intervening years Mark has lost four straight to the "Hockmeister." (The usual rationales ... bad wax, stiff back, sniffles, lack of training.)

The rumor-mill has it that Danny Hyde is out training - often by headlight to avoid detection - and plans to dust all Fossil comers on March 16, 2008.

click here to find out more about the Gold Rush

Rare Art to be Housed in Clubhouse

AP News is reporting a story that several - possibly many - objects of
rare art will be housed in the almost completed Fossil Clubhouse. It
is expected that the pieces will span many genre from kinetic
sculptures made from broken gear, to photography, to paintings and
drawings. (The object above is entitled, "The Cassin," and it depicts
Hock brewing up on the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna. The discerning
observer can just make out the stuff sack hanging around Hock's neck.
This key identifies the attempt as the 1981, "Fat Boys Come Back
Skinny" trip in which Mark and Hock went ultra-light ... Single boots,
no parkas, Nordic racing skis, 9 mm rope, six screws - setting a standard Mark Twight was to emulate, one book between them, one meal a day, no toothbrushes, and no shovel. The artist is reported to be Selden West working in acrylics. Click on the picture to enlarge it.)

Another Rare Piece

Painted by noted Fossilette watercolorist - Selden - this piece
is entitled, "Jonny Dome." It depicts Hock roping up his three year-
old son Jon to ascend an un-named "dome" in Tuolumne Meadows. The outing was part of the famed Ewing-Hochschartner family vacation. (Click on the picture to enlarge it.)

Fossil Spouses

Selden claims that Hock's caprilene long-johns smell. I personally assured her that no self respecting fossils wash their garments more than once a fortnight ... if that! She urged me to survey the spouses. So the question is, does your manly man launder his long-johns:

a) after every outing even if it is a one pitch, half day

b) after every long ski tour or full day on the hill

c) after several (3-4) mountain outings

d) after a couple of weeks

e) once a season

Please send responses to seldenwest@gmail.com

Running Laps

Larry Robjent (the Order of the Friends of Fossils) running it out on
Quarry Wall (NEI 4+) by Cascade Lakes. We then ran some laps on this
classic testpiece.

The Fossils are 0-3

The plum, the big kahuna, the trophy fish that has never been landed ... the Cassin Ridge of Denali. One of the most aesthetic and direct lines on any big mountain in the world. Over 10,000 vertical feet, 65+ degrees ice, and 5.7 rock at altitude. Will we ever go back?

Sunset from the porch

All the windows went in, some furniture, and we are getting ready to
christen the Fossil Clubhouse with a New Year's Eve party. (Click on the photo to enlarge it.)

Fossil Contest: name that route

The fives pictures below, represent routes that have been done multiple times by Fossils and their friends. NAME THE ROUTES ...

Question #2

Question #3

Question #4

Question #5

SCORING: 5 correct (either too much time indoors or you are a relatively young fossil with brain cells intact), 4 correct (you are a hard man), only 3 correct (you've spent too much time above 20,000'), only 2 correct (you've been drinking or possibly the early onset of senility), and 1 or none correct (you are probably almost comatose from the drugs they are using to 'scope your knees)

ANSWERS:

#1 ROYAL ARCHES
#2 DANA COULOIR
#3 WEST BUTTRESS OF DENALI
#4 MENDEL COULOIR
#5 GREAT WHITE BOOK

More Palisades

Mark Ewing went back with Lewie and on successive trips did the Moonlight Goddess and Sun Ribbon. There has been talk - off and on - of going back in to the area to do the last of the Celestial Aretes on Temple. So, is anyone up for a one-day blast of the Venutian Blind Arete (IV 5.7)?

Two Fossil Trips Separated by 25 Years

In the late 1970s Mark, Michael, and Hock hoofed it into the North Palisades for a week of climbing. It was early season and there was lots of snow about. The guys climbed "Moon Goddess Arete" on Mount Temple (III 5.7), the "Swiss Route" on Mount Sill (II 5.7), and the Thunderbolt to Polemonium Traverse (III 5.9). (Trip highlights included Michael Franklin's "surprise" glissade in shorts and Hock's pit stop at the basis of the Ibrium Tower.)

On Hock's 50th birthday gathering (summer 2002), the guys hired horsepackers to head back into the cirque. Mark, Lewie, Brian, Danny, and Hock headed in for a three day trip, with the larder incredibly well stocked. The routes done were the West Ridge of Gayley and the North Buttress of Starlight. (Trip highlights included Lewie's "discussion" with the horse packers about the card table, and Mark's bivouac.)

Clubhouse Sign

Lucy made a Fossil sign for the cabin.

Bomber Pro!

A medium hex and a tri-cam on the other side of the fireplace hold the
stockings up.

Fossil Quiz

What Fossil has ascended the Southeast Buttress route (III 5.6) of Cathedral Peak most frequently? When were the trips, and who was in attendance? (Hock has done five trips.)

Upcoming Fossil Objective?

A mini-guide to the Pharaoh Mountain classic ice route (click here)

The Roof Is On!

We are planning to christen the Fossil Clubhouse with a New Year's Eve party. Selden is amazing ... Although not too sexy looking in Michael's old overalls!

New Uses for the Old

An original Chouinard ice hammer being put to good use banging nails on the Clubhouse loft. The last time this fossil gear was used was in the late 1970s nailing "Stigma" and then on the North Buttress of Middle Cathedral in Yosemite.

Z Pulley System

The Fossil Clubhouse sleeping loft is going up but oops ... The cut
boards are not a good fit. Not having a come-along handy, Hock breaks out the gear and sets up a pulley system to tighten them up. We'll be ready for the Doug Scott slideshow and Mountainfest on January 9th.

Merry Christmas

Trimming our tree, Lucy gets to hang the ice tool ornament!

Doug Scott

The guest lecturer for January's Mountainfest, sponsored by the Mountaineer is Dou Scott. His slideshow will be about his epic trip to the Ogre in the Himalaya. Here he is crawling off the peak with two broken legs! HOW ABOUT ANOTHER GATHERING OF THE FOSSIL CLAN?

Fossil T-shirt

Folding the laundry and came across my commemorative 50th birthday shirt from 2002 ... it needs updating ... so what routes have two or more fossils done since then?

Lucy

Skiing out in the sugarbush with dad to make sure he doesn't have a
coronary.

Fossil Gear

Hock resurrects 1970 Rossi strato downhill skis mounted with first
generation Ramer bindings! Just the hot ticket to ski into the north
side of Pitchoff.

Fossil Faux Pas

As Selden and I were cleaning up after the fossil icefest we came
across a pair of socks ... So, did Brian tell you guys that he showed up
for a three day ice climbing trip with only 4-5 pair of dress business
socks?

Heading Home

Just before pointing the car south to New Jersey Brian and Hock went
for a 75 minute ski on the Olympic biathlon trails. A good time was
had by all ... Gary's fingers got very cold, Brian has tiger balm and
a wrap on his leg, and Hock gained 5 pounds somehow!

Well dressed fossil

Please note, this is not the complete set of handwear taken on a
climb, as there are several lightweight pairs pruned in the spirit of
alpinism that were left in the car. Here is Brian picking out a set of gloves for our Monday morning ski tour on the Porter Mountain Race loops.

Belay Off

Brian led the last pitch, a beautiful right leaning traverse over
several steep bulges and finishing on some thin and brittle ice.

Checking out a route

Gary tossing a coin to see which route we do.

Heading off to the north side of Pitchoff

A bit late, but it is really howling outside.

Full Conditions!

An all day outing that finished outside Hock's house at 6 PM where this picture was taken. The ski into the climb took over an hour, and then wallowed up to the base of the route which took another hour - at least - followed by two pitches of NEI 3+. We started to rappel;"The Eye of the Needle"; just before dark.

Alpine Start and Breakfast

We were aiming for 4 AM, and got away by 10:00! Brian makes an
excellent omelette and Selden's cornbread is from an old southern
family recipe.

Brian's Second Best!

The very same trip, our hero, Brian leads this classic Canadian V, two pitch ice route! (Lewie and Brian did this route after they were robbed - at gun point? - so they did not have a camera and we had to take this picture off the internet!

Brian's Best

About a decade ago Brian and Lewie did Polar Circus, rumor is that Lewie was shot (moaning and absolutely horizontal) ... one pitch from topping out!

A Big Route with Franklin

One of the best routes Mark and Michael ever did. A Grade V that took multiple attempts.

Yoga

After a shower and a beer, the hardman goes through his yoga routine.

Cold Belay

The high today was 8 degrees above zero... We did Buster, Bowser, and
Pitchoff Right and multiple laps on each.

Hooking

Gary and Hock having a contest to see who can get up the route (NEI 4)
without swinging a tool.

Fossil Trip Remembered

After 8-10 laps today, sipping some brews, Brian started telling tales of the Fossil Ice Weekend in the late 1990s in Utah. The picture is a great lead that Brian did on Back Off (NEI 4+).

Handsome Dude

Brian having just geared up and combed his hair and goatee. We all
agreed that he was the best dressed and groomed person on the crag. (Please note, he is getting ready to put his sixth layer on his upper body. After the climb he was heard to remark, my feet are toastie warm with my new chemical heater, foot pads.)

First Screw

Brian on his first ice lead of the season in Cascade Pass. Bowser is
a 60' NEI 3. Of course, Brian cruised it, placing two only screws.

Gearing Up

Brian showing off his chemical foot heaters to cope with the modest
-10 degree Adirondack temperatures.

Fossil Kickoff

Brian, Gary, and Hock toasting Mark and Danny ... Discussing routes,
gear, and what flavor Ben and Jerry's to have for dessert.

First lead of season

Larry started us off with a superb lead of Sisters Right (NEI 4) in
blustery conditions. After some laps, Hock lead the more modest Buster
(NEI 3-). The fossils are due any minute.

A Most Often Told Tale

Any time two - or more - fossils get together, you can be sure of one thing, the tale of the epic on Black Orpheus in Red Rocks, Nevada will be re-told. Suffice it to say that Michael, Brian, Mark, and Danny were lucky to get out alive.

A Fossil Trip Over 30 years Ago

Over 30 years ago Michael Franklin, Mike Brochu, and Hock were hanging out at the Harvard Cabin at the base of Huntington Ravine, high up on Mount Washington in New Hampshire. As it was -25 degrees as a day-time high, they decided to hike down and climb in the valley. Driving over to Crawford Notch the temperatures were a modest -5 degrees and so they soloed the three pitch Cinema Gully (NEI 3+) just to stretch their legs a bit.

2005: December Fossil Trip

Mark, Hock, Danny, and Brian climbing Sisters Left (NEI 3+) in the Cascade Pass area. This was Danny's first climbing trip back East.

2004: More December Fossil stuff

Mark's first climbing trip east started with the classic red-eye flight, arrival in a suit, and changing into climbing gear in Brian's VW van on the way north. We met at Chapel Pond and climbed Chouinard's Gully for a warmup. Larry Robjent (Order of the Friend's of Fossils) teamed with Hock and Brian climbed this classic NEI 3+ route with Mark. After finishing in the dark we headed to the Ausable Inn for dinner and Mark reacquainted himself with his old friend Jack.

2004: December Fossil Trip

Several years ago - Mark's first climbing trip east - we snowshoed into the north side of Pitchoff and did The Central Pillar of Pitchoff (NEI 4). Brian had a stout lead, on a very cold day, and only the second route of the season.

Superb Conditions ... Five laps

Larry setting up the top rope on Pitchoff Right (NEI 3+). COME ON UP AND START YOUR SEASON!