Sunday, July 31, 2016

An environmental dystopia ... RUIN and ROSE

http://youtu.be/I5eteKwALBA

A surreal future leaves the world without water and consumed by sand: the Big Empty. A group of children survives alone on the edge of the endless desert in the ruin of the now. When a young boy unearths an ancient relic hinting at the lost wonders of winter, he sets off in search of the ghosts that once called the mountains their home. This bold cinematic experience balances stunning skiing with a wild and hopeful journey into the forgotten lands of myth and magic beyond the Empty.



Saturday, July 30, 2016

Friday, July 29, 2016

BLAST FROM THE PAST ... guiding in 1988

One of my former students found an itinerary for the seven week mountaineering program I ran back in my youth.

Thursday, July 28, 2016

Tuesday, July 26, 2016

Sobering analysis of the economic impact of climate change

What if all the western states did this type of analysis, what would the cumulative total look like? Very sobering; take the time to read this short essay ...

http://adventure-journal.com/2016/07/montana-measures-cost-of-climate-change-and-it-aint-pretty/

Monday, July 25, 2016

Books about Ed Abbey

There was a time when I devoured all he wrote from Desert Solitaire to Fire On The Mountain, to the Monkey Wrench Gang and Hayduke Lives ... does it still have any relevance?


http://adventure-journal.com/2016/07/is-there-anything-left-to-be-learned-from-ed-abbey/

Recovery seems on track

I did a 12.5k trail run and only felt a bit sluggish in the final couple of kilometers.

Saturday, July 23, 2016

Easy recovery run ...

Feel pretty good after that long day on the Range Trail, and got soaked in a thunderstorm.

The bluejay enjoying the day

Friday, July 22, 2016

Long day ... 32k and 4400'

My former student Grady gets #42-45, only one shy of being a 46er!

Thursday, July 21, 2016

BLAST FROM THE PAST ... Jon Waterman

Looks like my old climbing buddy celebrated his 60th on the summit of Denali.

From about 1976-1982 we saw a lot of each other. The winter I was caretaker at the Harvard Cabin we climbed a massive amount of ice, from Dracula to the Cilley-Barber route. He got me an interview at the Colorado Outward Bound School, and after some winter courses one year we did the Rigid Designator. We climbed some winter routes in Scotland and Chamonix. Back then he was a very modest rock climber and skier, but he was a beast humping loads, breaking trail, running it out on vertical ice, and holding his liquor in the Clachaig Inn. On a long Thanksgiving run in Crested Butte he even dangled a spot on his winter trip to the Cassin Ridge; however after he told me about a Denali summit maximum-minimum thermometer bottoming out, I told him I was going to race the ski marathon circuit.

A nice article on the Wild Snow website:

https://www.wildsnow.com/20654/jonathan-waterman-returns-to-denali/

Wednesday, July 20, 2016

The new issue of Ascent

Having overcome my addiction to climbing magazines, an affliction with which I have struggled for several decades. My daughter bought me this magazine for my birthday. I have to say it was a real gem, and well worth buying. For fossils the article by Bridwell about trundling in the valley, the article by David Roberts reflecting on his ascent long ago of Mount Deborah, and Jeff Long's article about Fritz Stammberger will all resonate.

But I promise, I have control of my addiction and am currently only purchasing issues of the Alpinist and Vertical.

Tuesday, July 19, 2016

Another beautiful day begins

Blast From The Past ... Central Buttress of Scafell

I wanted to climb this route so badly on my first climbing trip to the Lake District in 1977. Unfortunately, I could not find a partner to do this historic route that was first climbed in 1914 ... amazingly stout and bold ... Herford in the first ascent party was killed in The Great War.


Monday, July 18, 2016

Saturday, July 16, 2016

Another classic route for the bucket list

East Ridge of Edith Cavell ... III 5.3

Check out some other moderate ridge routes in the Canadian Rockies ...

http://gripped.com/news/five-must-climb-canadian-alpine-ridges/

Friday, July 15, 2016

They take Nordic skiing seriously!

Extra Blue Road ... in Norway of course.

Thursday, July 14, 2016

Long, bold, serious ... The time may have passed for those type of alpine routes but ...

There can still be great pleasure and satisfaction in seeking out those stunning easy alpine routes all over the world. This one has been on my bucket list for a long time.



Sketches from the Bugaboos from Luke Humphrey on Vimeo.

Wednesday, July 13, 2016

Tuesday, July 12, 2016

A great birthday ...

With this gift I am starting to plan my climbing trip to Chamonix for my 65th birthday next year. Just like my first trip 40 years ago, next year I will be looking at the classics. I think the days of dreaming about long, hard, committing, and solo routes will have to wait until the next life. So, I am not looking at the supercouloir, route choice will be more like the Rochefort Ridge which I first did with El Presidente.

Lucy got me a selection of climbing magazines to fuel the fire, and wrote a very thoughtful card about our recent trip to the Sierras. Jon and Amanda gave me a classic book by Doug Scott, I got a pair of running shorts, as well as Patagucci stand-up shorts from our pets. Finally, the surprise of the evening, were two West Wing (I am such a fanatic) photographs inscribed by Martin Sheen ... "What's Next."

Monday, July 11, 2016

Light and fast on Foraker

Colin Haley breaks down the details of his recent solo of the Infinite spur (yellow). He puts in the perspective of a 2016 elite alpinist and judges it, not to be such a big deal ... wow, not sure I agree with that! A good read about the top end of our sport.

http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/colin-haley-solo-fast-and-light-on-the-infinite-spur-in-alaska.html

Sunday, July 10, 2016

Whiteface Sufferfest ... 4K, 3300', soggy turf and mud, with 100% humidity

I grabbed the pictures off the race site, as obviously I was miles behind Kasie Enman (2011 World Mountain Running Champion) when she passed the top of the Facelift chair (halfway)! Too bad nobody got pictures on the steepest bits pulling up on tufts of grass and rocks to make forward progress.

A first for me, as I was the oldest participant by a decade.

Friday, July 8, 2016

Whiteface Vertical K ... in less than 24 hours!


2015 Whiteface Vertical K from Mountain Peak Fitness on Vimeo.

Run/Boulder combo

A nice 3K run from the Rockefeller House to the NCS crag, change shoes and do five laps on an easy 5.2 route, and then another 1.5k run to my office ... Change into work clothes and I am good to go ... Finished the day with another 3k run home.

Wednesday, July 6, 2016

BLAST FROM THE PAST

One of several iconic posters that helped fuel the running boom in the 1970s. Now the real question is, was the Nike Waffle Trainer the best shoe I ever owned, or the shoe that launched my chronic knee pain?

Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Owls Head Again

A good early morning workout with 5 third class laps and some easy bouldering on the summit.

Monday, July 4, 2016

Laps on the NCS crag

Of course, both Gary and I were dealing with injuries ... his wrist and my shoulder.

Sunday, July 3, 2016

Saturday, July 2, 2016

Coming back from a run on the biathlon trails

Selden's farm is looking pretty nice. I spent an hour reading at the cabin ... A pretty nice way to end the work day!