Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Getting fit!



Matt (NCS '85) is getting ready for Peru, and his first Cordillera 6,000 meter peak. Danny and gary no doubt remember him from our 1993 trip to Denali. This morning he sent along the enclosed picture, with the following caption: " Well, ain't got no log-book, but I do got some ripped quads and calves after a 1.5 hour crash and slash, lung burner mountain bike ride this morning ... the tea and oatmeal afterwards were well deserved."

What a stud; looks like he will get all the steep ice pitches at 20,000'.

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Kikkan kicking butt




Read this short article from "Faster Skier.com" about Kikkan's summer training with Norway's best; to put it bluntly she is more than holding her own! The enclosed picture is from the Sognefjell snowfield.

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE ARTICLE

Video: a good overview of the Cordillera Blanca

This short video that I found on YouTube covers one of the warm up climbs were are likely to do (Yanapaccha), as well as two warm up climbs I have previously done (Urus and Ishinca). Needless to say I am pretty excited to be heading back to Andean Peru.


Big new route in Alaska

Colin Haley's blog has great entries about his 37 day stay in the Denali area. They summited Denali three times, with an aborted ski descent on the 'Orient Express,' as well as completing the hard new route (blue) on the Southeast Face of Foraker. (As an important aside, climbing in poor conditions they narrowly missed breaking the speed record on the Cassin Ridge.)

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE BLOG

Monday, June 28, 2010

The Southern Alps

The mountain mamas - Hannah and Tori - pose for Greg on a recent trip to the high country. Mount Cook is in the background. How many bluebird days like this do they get 'down under'.

Starting her training for the loppet

Lucy did her first short hike of the season, slowly gearing up to
knock 20-30 minutes off her 25K time.

Google Earth Is Amazing

Having read an article about it yesterday I noodled around with the google earth program. It is amazing! As a quick suggestion, type in Mount Colden, NY, or Gothics NY and see the views of the Trap Dike and North Face. Or, type in Matterhorn, Switzerland or maybe Mount Tacul, France and see the amazing views of the climbing routes you can conjure up. I then dumped a screen capture into 'Brushes' and annotated it to help get Dave psyched to climb the Matterhorn after we ski the Haute Route. (as always, you can enlarge this screen capture from google earth by clicking on the image.)

Sunday, June 27, 2010

Follow up to the munter hitch video

Here it is ... An incredibly useful knot!

Laps at the Crag

It was humid and damp from yesterday's showers but it was good to get
out with the soloist and do easy laps in mountain boots. I feel like I
am getting into shape, although I will need to get 3-4 long days in
the mountIns before I head to Peru.

Bouldering Video

Just a tiny video taken on Owl's Head a couple of days ago, as I was testing out my new mammut approach shoes. My sportiva approach shoes, climb quite well but are brutally uncomfortable. The sportivas certainly can not function as "round about town," multi-purpose treads. My hope was that I can wear these new mammut shoes for casual wear in the city, but also climb modest rock. Unfortunately, the mammuts are comfortable, look nice, but are crap for climbing ... ah, the constant dilemma!

Saturday, June 26, 2010

A year ago today

Last year at this time Hock and Mark were having a successful excursion to the East side of the Sierras. This trip - planned in honor of his 60th year - included: snow climbing on Dana, warm sun baked rock on Cathedral, the mile long north ridge of Lone Pine Peak, great victuals at the Mobile station in Lee Vining, yoga, hot springs, a super day on Cloud's Rest, Schaat's Bakery, bouldering, and a spectacular sunset in El Cap Meadows. (Click on the image to enlarge the collage.)

Quote of the Week ... Cold Mountain Poems


During the T'ang Dynasty, Han Shan was a mountain hermit, poet, and he wrote the Cold Mountain Poems of which, I offer one for your reflection and contemplation. This poem has been translated noted American poet Gary Snyder.

ONCE AT COLD MOUNTAIN, TROUBLES CEASE -
NO MORE TANGLED, HUNG-UP MIND,
I IDLY SCRIBBLE POEMS ON THE ROCK CLIFF,
TAKING WHATEVER COMES, LIKE A DRIFTING BOAT.

Are you training for the Haute Route in 2011?

Avoiding the obvious question - How can I be so anal - the next key question is how is your summer training going. Will you be ready to enjoy the Haute Route, not just survive it? As for me I have only one month until I am at the base of a 6,000 meter peak, so I have to pick up the pace and volume a bit. (Of course, if you really want to examine the stats, just click on the image to enlarge the photograph.)

Friday, June 25, 2010

THE FOSSIL BLOG REACHES 3,000 "HITS"

The Tree Pose ... Vrksasana

Taking an hour off from work on a beautiful day, I headed out to the Yurt boulder with my yoga mat. Mixing poses and stretches, with easy repeats on favorite bouldering problems is a great way to recharge your energy for an afternoon of emailing. This 20 second video set to some calming Gregorian chants, should get you out of your office chair to do some yoga poses.

"Older, Stronger, and Harder"


A recent article in "Gripped" about climbing in your fifties and sixties should be required reading for all fossils. (It even talks a bit about climbers in their forties.) The long and the short of it is ... with sticky rubber, climbing gyms, bouldering, better gear, and good motivation ... there are no excuses!



CLICK HERE TO READ THE ARTICLE

Shangri-La




If you have access to Netflix, I urge you to rent the BBC series by Michel Wood called "In Search of Myths and Heros." I just watched (for the second time) the episode on Shangri-La. Many of you may have read Hilton's famous book "Lost Horizon;" this 60 minute BBC video covers the backstory to that wonderful novel. The enclosed pictures - of a hidden Tibetan monastery and Ron Coleman in Capra's 1937 version of "Lost Horizon" - are screen captures from this excellent BBC episode. Highly recommended.

CLICK TO ACCESS THE ARTICLE ABOUT THE HISTORY OF THE SHANGRI-LA LEGEND

Biathlon Clinic

Talented juniors are having a week long clinic with former head Biathlon team coach Algis Shalna. Lucy and I went over to watch some of the clinic, and who knows we may pull out the air rifle for some practice down at the cabin. (Oh, and former NCSer - Sam - is on prone shooting station #9.)

Naismith's Rule ... and Gadd's rules


Naismith's Rule is a rule of thumb that helps in the planning of a walking or hiking expedition by calculating how long it will take to walk the route, including ascents. The rule was devised by William W. Naismith, a Scottish mountaineer, in 1892. The basic rule is as follows: Allow 1 hour for every 3 miles (5 km) forward, plus ½ hour for every 1000 feet (300 metres) of ascent. (When walking on poor terrain, allow 1 hour for every 2.5 miles -4 km - forward, instead of 1 hour per 3 miles.) Will Gadd has added a few rules of his own that are more climbing and alpine specific:

a) Ten pitches of climbing fresh ice will pretty much take all day. Ten pitches of gear climbing at my trad standard will pretty much take all day.
b) I can generally run about ten minute miles on almost any trail out there if averaged over the course of a few hours. Except when I can't.
c) Any approach not involving trails will generally take a "practice" approach to find the way in.
d) Eat every hour at the minimum or suffer.
e) Take twice the food and half the water in winter as you do in summer.
f) If your winter pack is bigger than 45L you're backpacking, not climbing fast. While, a pack smaller than ten liters is a purse.
g) The farther you are from home the more you'll get done in the wrong conditions. Put another way, visiting climbers are often stronger than the locals...
h) Camping is vastly over-rated. Most local trips can be done without camping.
i) As you get older your potential for injury while doing new sports increases and is inverse to your ability to heal from an injury...

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Statistical Analysis of Tim Burke's Performance


Having taught math for much of my career, and being something of a statistical geek, I was greatly interested in this analysis. Joran has done much such work for Faster Skier.com on the World Cup cross country scene, but this is his first look at elite biathlon performance.

CLICK HERE TO READ THE ARTICLE

New Pata-gucci




A belated Father's Day gift arrived in the mail - brand new caprilene long underwear. As you can see from the picture of me doing a sun salutation during my yoga, the word threadbare, just barely hints at the state of my current alpine underwear!

Adirondack Summit

Regis sent me another picture of our hike up Wright Peak.

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Fossil Flying

Being a fossil alpinist is all about adventure. Here is John D tackling a new sort of adventure! No problem with ce, rock, steep chutes, fast rapids ... But this looks seriously dangerous.

Longing for Winter?



This short video features a bunch of junior racers doing an informal relay race at their late June - on snow - training camp in Bend, Oregon. It looks like pretty spectacular conditions on Mount Bachelor.

Super Munter Hitch



I have not tried this yet, however this is reported to be even better than the regular munter hitch in that it creates more friction AND less tangles in the rope. Maybe I will check it out on my next trip to the crag.

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Mount Van Hoevenberg


Well, the nordic and biathlon venues did not get all the funding that they had asked New York State for, however as the dysfunctional legislature has finally passed a budget ... they did get most of what they asked for ... YAHOO!

CLICK HERE TO READ THE ARTICLE

Wright Peak

Two camp and school alumni flew their single engine plane up last evening, and this morning we did the eight mile hike roundtrip up one of
our Adirondack 46ers. Identical twins - Regis and Guillaume -
dispatched the 2,500' in pretty short order. It was great to get out
of the office. (Algonguin is the peak in the background.)

Monday, June 21, 2010

Father's Day


All day long, I was counseled - don't look, don't come in my room, why don't you leave to go work out - as Lucy had a very clear plan and conception of a project for Father's Day. Now that the cabin and out buildings have been moved to their final resting place, we have begun plans for turning the last tool shed into a bunkhouse, to increase the sleeping capacity of the Fossil Compound. With this in mind, she made me a special sign out of birch bark and birch twigs. FABULOUS. So, come on up for a visit and bring the entire family!

Ski Specific Workout


With the biathlon team getting ready to host youth clinics for the next two weeks, I thought it appropriate to do a nordic type summer workout. Yesterday I did a speed hike with poles on the Olympic biathlon trails for about 40 minutes. One has to pick carefully this time of year, as trails that get used for mountain biking have been mowed and are generally pleasant, the others are overgrown and may involved struggles with weeds and brambles.

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Ted on Mount Whitney





Ted recently returned from a trip to the Sierras with his daughter Lydia. He did the "mountaineer's route" in a still very snowed up, late Spring conditions. Kudos. Moreover, there is no better training for the Haute Route than getting out and logging some vertical. Now that my trip to the Cordillera Blanca has solidified (July 24- August 9), and my many alumni trips are being scheduled for work, let's get down to the business of scheduling the Franconia Ridge Trail.

I may not be able to manage an entire weekend, and it is most likely that if you rendezvous at Dick's house that I would meet you at the trail-head the following morning. Good dates for me to do that hikes are: June 27, July 3, or July 4. OMG MORE CIRCUMSCRIBED THAN I IMAGINED!

Quote of the Week ... Eric Shipton


Dusting off an old Christmas present, I peruse Jon Waterman's 'The Quotable Climber," to find an entry for today. (Of course it also brought up such wonderful memories of Jon ... introducing me to COBS, climbing ice on Katahdin, holding a fall on "Dracula," sitting in a soggy tent in Scotland, climbing in Chamonix one winter, and of course laughing in his face on a 15 mile run, as he goaded me to join the winter ascent of the Cassin Ridge.)

In the last lines of his biography Eric Shipton route the following: THE SPRINGS OF ENCHANTMENT LIE WITHIN OURSELVES; THEY ARISE FROM OUR SENSE OF WONDER, THAT MOST PRECIOUS OF GIFTS,THE BIRTHRIGHT OF EVERY CHILD."

Bouldering

As I headed out to the yurt boulder yesterday for a 75 minute session, I ran into Dave at the conclusion of his bouldering workout. He had done it all: multiple laps - up and down - on the hardest problems, girdling circles around this Adirondack glacial erratic, then adding some interesting sit starts. His goal is to build up the strength needed to send the "Impossible Dream" problem.

Saturday, June 19, 2010

Working out

Trying to get ready for serious alpine climbing ... yesterday it was a session on the crag, today bouldering and yoga at the yurt ... maybe some hiking later in the day. Watch the short clip with me doing laps with my soloist to the tune of the Rolling Stones.

Oh, and another thing about John Gill

He was one of the first American climbers to do specific training for bouldering so that he could master hard rock moves. He was also the first to understand that gymnastic moves might require a gymnasts training regimen. Of course, he also popularized the use of gymnastic chalk. Despite all his concentration on physical preparation for his sport, maybe his mental prep and his spirituality of bouldering was an even more important legacy. Again, all this is very common today, but was viewed as wildly eccentric in his day.

Video interview of John Gill

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-QO3Vwl04Q&sns=em



A very short vide snippet from a movie in the making about the history of American climbing. Gill was way ahead of his time. Many of his bouldering problems are considered quite hard even by today's standards, and what was once a very eccentric activity is now considered quite mainstream.

More Peru Prep Work

With my plane reservations made - with an added couple of days - I have started my planning for the Cordillera Blanca. My gut feeling is: I will go with double boots; I will bring my skis; and I think I will bring my trad alpine tools and leave the cobras home. No idea yet about iPhone ... Maybe I will have to borrow a camera. Excitement builds over this Andean adventure; although once again it looks like I will not be able to get to Machu Picchu.

Friday, June 18, 2010

Laps On The Crag

A beautiful day - stuck inside for meetings - so around 4:30 I took 90
minutes off to do a half dozen laps on "One Taste." The picture shows
me looking down from the belay on top of this 5.5 route.

Mark Twight Interviews




In a series of over 20 short audio interviews, Twight spills his guts on all aspects of his Alaskan climbs ... Fast, light, and a take no prisoners attitude prevails throughout.

CLICK HERE

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Fossils on Denali

A pictorial synopsis of three trips on Denali spanning 15 years. The statistics are: two summits via the West Buttress, one new route on the Thunder Ridge, one failed attempt on the West Rib, and one failed attempt on Hunter. Of course, the picture doesn't capture it all ... Hock's sled's wild ride, Dandy Don hiding personal food stashes, sitting out a 17 day storm, the plane that got stuck in wet snow, and drinking whiskey with Bridwell. I still hope to go back. (Click on the photo to enlarge the image.)

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Yahoo!

The Fossil Cabin is set to go. Fantastic views, not only of Cascade, and Picthoff, but also Street and Nye, Big Slide, and Mount Van Hoevenberg if you walk a couple of yards away. Many thanks to Selden (in the picture) and her crew!

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

The Soloist


I bought this device over 15 years ago, and it has certainly come in handy. I just spent an hour at the crag doing laps of "Hock's Blessing" our classic 5.6 route. Not much gear needed ... a harness, rope, soloist, and chest loop.

Moving Day





Selden had a crew of guys show up with big machines. Their goal today was to move the Fossil Cabin, crapper, sauna, and a shed, soon to be turned into a bunkhouse, down to their final resting place. As you can see from the picture, the new location - very close to the Olympic ski trails - will have an amazing view of Pitchoff and Cascade.

Celebrating a 75th Birthday in the Adirondacks



Roger is the guy that hired me almost 30 years ago. Yesterday he turned 75 - still fit and bagging peaks - however over the weekend we had almost 100 people turn up for some portion or other of his birthday celebration. The first part of this special day was his traditional hike up Cascade - 2.5 miles and 2000' of climbing - he has done it almost 250 times during his life-time. As you can see from the enclosed picture the weather was dreary. Later in the evening we had a sit-down dinner fro 65, and he non-chalantly blew out all 76 candles (one for good luck).

All Fossils should only hope to age so well.

Monday, June 14, 2010

Ahrundhati Roy

I am finally getting around to reading a book my son got me for Christmas. The Indian author is most famous for her fiction - "The God of Small Things" - however I am a fan of her political essays. This book of essays includes one short fictional piece called "The Briefing." The piece was commissioned for Manifesta 7 a biennial art event that is set on the edge of the dolomites. This 8 page story is set during the "Snow Wars," when global warming has made it impossible for people to enjoy the traditional coast and beach vacation resorts (because of rising sea levels) and so year-round ski vacations are all the rage. However, with temperatures rising, there is a corporate war to see who can invent the best snow substitutes, or who can produce snow at the highest temperatures above freezing. That and the description of covering glaciers with foil so that they will not recede too quickly are scary harbingers of what may come to pass ... Highly recommend ... Take a look at an outline of this work and Manifest 7 ...

http://www.manifesta7.it/artists/504

Peru ... andean cocaine production

Tingo Maria is back in the news again. My first trip to Peru in the mid-80s was scuttled because of the drug related activity of The Shining Path - in that area - had spilled out of the jungle, over the Andean mountain passes, into the Cordillera. Hopefully, this will not happen again, as Peru has suffered violence and economic stress from that. (Click on the photograph to enlarge the image.)

CLICK HERE TO READ THE FULL ARTICLE.

A gift for a family with young children



"Mark The Mountain Guide" seems to be something of a first, a children's story about an alpine guide with some lessons about avalanches and mountain safety thrown in on the side.

CLICK HERE TO READ THE AMAZON REVIEWS

Vitamin I ... ibuprofen


A pretty technical article on the effects of vitamin I on endurance, pain management, and swelling reduction. The article comes out of the work of the Olympic Training Center. The bottom-line ... use in moderation, only post-exercise, and be sure to be well hydrated.

CLICK HERE TO READ THE ARTICLE

Sunday, June 13, 2010

The Rain has Stopped!


School is out. The end-of-year faculty meetings are over. Treetops staff meetings have just begun, and the celebration of Roger's 75th is behind us. Dave is starting to train, so he can get mega-fit, and see if this is the year that the "Impossible Dream" boulder will be climbed. The picture shows him doing casual laps on "Un-named" (5.9+) at the NCS crag. He is also just about to purchase a soloist so he can log more mileage. (I did laps on the 5.7 "Unexpected" to the left.)

Huaraz Satyricon

I can not seem to verify, if this wonderfully artsy cinema - in an ex-patriots living room - still exists. I have great memories of kicking back with a beer and enchilada, while recovering from a 6,000 meter peak. I guess I'll have to wait and see.

Saturday, June 12, 2010

Lists. Questions? And more lists

I am getting plane tickets this weekend ... Cordillera Blanca here we come!

Friday, June 11, 2010

Penmen Climbing Cartoons

Amazing Ski Descent in Chamonix!

Aig Blanche ski descent from Luca Rolli on Vimeo.



It is hard to comprehend the stuff the Euros are doing. Having been at the base of the Brenva face several decades ago, and having climbed the Sentinelle Rouge on the south face of Mont Blanc, and looked across to this route, I just can not believe it was skied.

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE ARTICLE.

Quote of the week

Charles Houston - pictured in the lead on K2 - had a long fruitful life, however he always felt that it was the friendships in mountaineering that mattered most. So raise a glass to Fossil friendships ... "When men climb on a great mountain together, the rope between them is more than a mere physical aid to the ascent; it is a symbol of the spirit of the enterprise. It is a symbol of men banded together in a common effort of will and strength against their only true enemies: inertia, cowardice, greed, ignorance, and all weakness of the spirit."

Thursday, June 10, 2010

New York State Budget Woes

A recent article posted on Faster Skier.com alluded to the possibility that the Olympic nordic, biathlon, and ski jumping facilities could be closed next year if funding cuts are deep in the state budget. This would be a tremendous blow to elite skiers, juniors, NCSers, and of course to me.



CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE ARTICLE