Re-reading a great book by Justin Hill

The movie Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon and it's sequel Sword of Destiny were based on the Crane Iron Pentalogy, written by Wang Dulu from 1938 to 1942.  A portion of this series of novels was translated and adapted by Justin Hill in 2015 … you can read it online using the link below. 

https://archive.org/details/crouchingtigerhi0000hill/mode/2up

Awesome video about Marc Leclerc’s amazing solo climbs

Coming to American theaters on September 10th …

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SRpVyzagXLQ

BLAST FROM THE PAST … col de la fourche

Over 40 years ago, I slept on the floor of this tiny refugio, before Richard Wilmot and I got up at 1am to solo the Sentinelle Rouge on Mount Blanc.

QUOTE OF THE WEEK … from Jake Tapper’s novel

An excellent political thriller; and he quotes W.C.Fields as Congressmen and Senators are drinking during the day in their offices …. "Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite, and furthermore always carry a small snake."

Lucy back home for a couple of weeks

She arrived from Bozeman this past Saturday. Lucy is here to attend her postponed 2020 college graduation, and to ski in the first of a series of selection races, deciding who will race in Europe this season, and eventual move on to the 2022 Olympics. 

The picture was taken a couple of weeks ago at a week-long biathlon training camp. On the last day, Lucy finished second in the Casper Mountain Hill Climb.

Another good week of training …

Gearing up to run a 50k in mid-September.  I logged 16.6 hours and 3000 vertical this week.  I am trimming back vertical and increasing hours, as the September trail event is relatively flat. Specifically, I did 112k on the exercise bike, a bit more than 40k running, 7k on the ergometer, and a couple of good strength sessions.  And while I am not in the Sierras anymore, I continued my tai chi, doing "hands like flying clouds," and "parting horses mane."

David Hochschartner (Hock)

Thinking of skiing volcanoes …

If all works out, just 8.5 months before I do some Pacific Ring Of Fire skiing!  I am certainly not thinking of anything crazy like these dudes, but it made me wonder, if I should put Mount St. Helens on the list? (Of course, we might put a traditional glacier ascent of the DC route on the list, and then ski the 4000' of the Muir Snowfields.)

https://www.wildsnow.com/29696/skiing-5-pnw-volcanoes-in-5-days-scott-rinckenberger/#more-29696

First day back on a mountain trail …

It's Owls Head, so a very short jaunt, but good to be on top of something, if only a small summit!

For the past two weeks, I have kept to casual, grassy, nordic trails or hilly dirt roads, since my big days in the Sierras. This sort of terrain ensures that both legs will work equally, and I won't unconsciously favor the good leg … as I did out west.

Warren Miller … a skiing icon … biographical video on Amazon Prime



Where will the 2026 Olympic ski mountaineers come from?



Well, as on the World Cup circuit, anticipate they will come from the Alpine countries … Italy, France, Austria, Switzerland, Germany. 

However, a more interesting question might be, so what other sport might they come from? Will there be cross-over athletes? Thinking about just the United States, might there be high level Olympic nordic athletes - like Simi H, Scott P, David N or some young guns - who have the downhill and backcountry creds, max VO2, mountain running chops, as well as Olympic level nordic experience to be medal contenders in this new sport? 

The 1996 Everest tragedy inspires a new opera

https://www.wsj.com/articles/everest-a-graphic-novel-opera-review-drawn-from-life-and-death-11626730747?st=ue3dt5rsdecxnji&reflink=article_email_share

It’s official … skimo in the 2026 Winter Olympics

Back In The Saddle

Well, we have had a lot of rain - which doesn't bother the cows - however my training is back on track. I logged 15+ hours of exercise last week and just over 4100 vertical feet. A good mix of run/hikes (47k), exercise bike (65k), ergometer (11.8k), and tai chi.

Nothing definite yet, but hoping for another mountain trip in October before the snow flies.

Wager With The Wind

I am fifty pages into this delightful biography of Don Sheldon.  The early chapters tell the narrative of his move to Alaska, and his several years of odd jobs during the depression; from trapping to gold mining, and working an Anchorage dairy to helping build Talkeetna's first airstrip, all supplemented by subsistence hunting … engaging tales told in spare prose. 

He is about ready to learn to fly! (The link below will allow you to read the book online for 14 days.)

https://archive.org/details/wagerwithwind00grei/page/46/mode/1up

Spring 2022 … look for me skiing the volcanoes of Pacific Northwest

I will start in California (Lassen and Shasta) and then head to Bend for Bachelor, Three Sisters, and Jefferson, and maybe end on Mount Hood. 

Messner … is he the greatest mountaineer?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WBTKM7ByCVs

The insidious consequences of falling … on skis or trail running

Obviously there is pain, there are scraps, bruises, strains, and sprains.  If you are like me, you take it easy, take pain killers, and maybe even see a doctor.  BUT, THEN THERE ARE THE LONG TERM AFTER-EFFECTS.  Your gait changed, your muscles are not in balance, you are - unbeknownst - protecting that limb, and now it's the other limb that hurts!

All this and more, is a consequence of my March ski wipeout. Wish I had read this then … click on every link in the article, including a look at his previous articles.  This guy hits the nail on the head. 

Iconic Alaskan bush pilot … Don Sheldon

https://www.wildsnow.com/29650/wager-with-wind-book-review/

A book review of Wager With The Wind, a biography of Don Sheldon.

A recovery week followed today by my normal Monday rest day …

Hanging out at the Fossil Cabin, and still feeling a bit lethargic and stiff. I couldn't even muster the energy to fire up the sauna!

However, I have done a bunch of reading today … Arthur C. Clarke short stories, Ralph Peters on how to adapt to a post 9/11 world, Joe Kelsey on summers in the Wind Rivers, and Mercury Rising about the politics of our early space program.

But, I may need to take it easy for a few more days.

So you want to run an ultra in the mountains ...

https://www.outsideonline.com/health/training-performance/ultrarunning-physiology-utmb-study/

Ski Mountaineering Events To Look Forward To ...

https://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/patrouille-des-glaciers-s-future-is-guaranteed--say-organisers/46722058

https://www.wildsnow.com/29587/ski-mountaineering-to-get-its-olympic-bid/

You climb? You are going to get arthritis

https://www.climbing.com/skills/you-climb-you-are-going-to-get-arthritis-heres-what-you-can-do-about-it/

TETON CREST TRAIL ... it’s on my bucket list

The video is available for your viewing pleasure at https://vimeo.com/410137897

BACK HOME

Yahoo! It was a hell of a travel day. I arrived at Reno at 5 pm, and boarded the red-eye to Charlotte at 11 pm. I arrived at 6 am, and then caught the 10 am flight to Burlington. Lunch with the Marchildons and then a two hour drive to Lake Placid.

It was a great trip, almost 25,000' vertical in my 15 active days, so the legs are a bit tired. THERE IS NO PLACE LIKE HOME.

Light Is Right



My recent trip to the east side of the Sierras and Yosemite, involved mostly hiking. However, there were a couple of occasions where I tried out the Choucas Light. At 89 grams (holy shit) for a medium size harness, it is hot!

Is it safe - yes - same certification as other harnesses. Is it handy - yes - put it on with skis or crampons on your feet, and take a pee or crap without being off belay. Would I use it on the Nose - no - moteover there is no way I would use it to hang-dog my way up a 5.15b.

However, if I was hauling loads up the West Butt, skiing the Haute Route, cruising the Exum route on the grand, or limping up the Hornli Ridge on the Matterhorn, on my 70th birthday ... this is what I would tie into!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-dVTmO4XPds

Day 19 in the Sierras: Granite Chief Trail (again) ...

Followed by a shower, packing, drive to Reno airport, and one really long 24 hour travel day. It was a great trip, and enclosed below is the short summary.

A GOOD TIME WAS HAD BY ALL: Hock bagged one summit (Tioga Peak), some spectacular hikes, finished all our whiskey, Mark caught a few itty-bitty fish, great day on the floor of the valley, Liz brought down some amazing food, Danny was energized, and the next stop is the Ouray Ice Festival in January.

DAY 18 ... Pole Creek Canyon

Tai chi and a fast 5k on the road were the warmup act. Later in the afternoon Mark and I had a nice 65 minute hike up this canyon outside of Truckee ... we got a heavy rain in the final ten minutes.

DAY 17 ... hiking the Granite Chief Trail

And squeezed in a run on the Western States Trail before the cocktail hour!

DAY 15: hiking in Squaw

Another hot but beautiful day in the Olympic Valley. Mark and I hiked at a very casual pace up to High Camp at 8200' and took the free tram back down. I finished the active part of the day with tai chi and a strength workout.

We also watched a bit of the Tour de France.

Day 15 in the Sierras ... heading back to Tahoe

The weather continues to be iffy with a high percentage of rain and thunderstorms likely. The Tahoe area will be warmer but with stable weather. Just before dinner I did an hour run on the Western State Trail.

Day 14 in the Sierras was for R&R

The storms moved in much earlier today, but I managed almost an hour of tai chi. Mark and Liz returned, feeling much better after their chiropractic adjustment. To avoid our soggy campsite we drove down to Lee Vining to read and have supper.

The photo below is from an photo exhibit about the important women of Yosemite Park in the Ahwahnee Hotel.

Day 13 in the Sierras: tioga peak

I hiked up to Gardisky Lake, had a light lunch and did some tai chi. After which I proceeded up the talus and scree to the 11,513' summit. This is probably the 7-8th time I have climbed this peak, a rubble pile, but it does have a good view. (It also has good cell reception so I sent some emails.)

Dark clouds were moving in, so I beat a hasty retreat and was back in my tent before the thunderstorms started.

Climbing and the Olympics

https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/647828/olympic-alpine-prize-most-dangerous-sport

Day 12 in the Sierras

Yesterday was a long day, with a hard hike, as well as long drives to, and from the floor of Yosemite valley. I took it easy today with some tai chi, and a two hour hike with Liz, to the Bennettville Lakes. (Hard to imagine the grit those miners had to get supplies in and too winter over at 10,000 feet.)