Thursday, June 30, 2011

Blast FROM THE PAST: humor on the washington column

Sierra weather is looking good

Just checked my iPhone weather app on my way to the airport ... I am psyched!

That settles it ... I am also bringing my Nordic race skis



After reading a FASTER SKIER.COM article (and video) about elite skiers training last weekend on groomed trails at Donner Summit I have decided I will need to bring rock gear, AT gear, and Nordic gear for the long weekend.

CLICK HERE TO READ THE ARTICLE AND WATCH THE SHORT VIDEO.

Heading To Squaw Valley

A gathering of the Fossil clan ... Summer skiing on the July 4th weekend, rock climbing at Donner Summit, and the telling of Tall Tales. El Presidente and the Silver Fox better be ready!

The Snow Leopard, Peter Mathiessen, and The Historian



Nicknamed "The Historian" by my fossil climbing buddies, it is not surprising that I have a bit of the scholarly bent in me. One of my favorite websites is called THE MOUNTAIN LIBRARY. This morning at 6:00 AM when I was browsing, I found this link to a 1999 essay about, and an interview with, author Peter Mathiessen. Prolific writer, environmental activist, and arch defender of wilderness and wildlife, fossil mountaineers probably best remember him for his 1980 National Book Award winning THE SNOW LEOPARD. This link is not my usual bill of fare, nevertheless an important piece for all that love wild country.

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THIS WONDERFUL COMMENTARY AMD INTERVIEW.

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Download or Stream Your Favorite Mountain Films



A fantastic looking new website. It has climbing, skiing, mountain biking, kayaking, BASE jumping, and mountain culture films. You can buy them and download them to your computer, or rent them and stream them on to your computer. There are many titles here that you can not find anywhere else ... THE BAT, EIGER SOLO, CELEBRATION AT CAMP FOUR, DER BERG RUFT, HARD GRIT, AND EVEREST UNMASKED.

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE SITE.

Monday, June 27, 2011

BLAST FROM THE PAST ... cutting the sled loose on the Kahiltna Glacier

Book Review: Games Climbers Play



It has been an incredibly wet spring, and the summer has started out no better in the Adirondacks. Roped pitches and bouldering have been possible as long as you can duck out of the office in between storms. It also helps to frequent spots that dry out quickly like Owls Head where these pictures were taken.

Cordillera, Peru, and Landscape Photography



CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE MOUNTAIN PHOTOGRAPHER SITE.

Saturday, June 25, 2011

Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About The North Face Of The Eiger



CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE UKC WEBSITE WITH HISTORICAL AND ROUTE INFORMATION.

A BIT OF HISTORY: napes needle

Napes Needle with Leo Houlding from Matt Pycroft on Vimeo.



In 1886, in the Lake District, on Gimmer Crag, the ascent of Napes Needle is thought to signal the origin of the sport of rock climbing. Still graded hard severe (5.6) it demands care and thought and gear. In the summer of 1977 just before heading to the Alps I spent several weeks in the Lake District and Wales picking up partners. I wanted to climb Napes Needle, but only found a partner interested it's harder, near neighbor ... The famous crack on Kern Knotts.

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Elite Nordic Skiers Dryland Training In Vermont

GAMES CLIMBERS PLAY: a selection of 100 mountaineering articles



I have been dipping into this great anthology before bedtime. No doubt if you climbed in the 1960s or 70s many of these stories and articles will be familiar. Last night I re-read: Patey's THE ART OF CLIMBING DOWN GRACEFULLY, Campbell's DOUGAL HASTON - CUMHA DUGHALL, Amy's THE GREATEST CLIMBER IN THE WORLD, and Tejada-Flores' seminal piece, GAMES CLIMBERS PLAY. Pull it off the shelf, re-read it ... and of course enjoy the cartoons. (CLICK ON THE IMAGES TO ENLARGE THE CARTOONS.)

BLAST FROM THE PAST ... 40th anniversary of Grand Teton Ski Descent




CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE ARTICLE AND INTERVIEW IN POWDER MAGAZINE.

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Summer dreaming ... a ski trip to Baffin Island?

Skiing Baffin Island - EP2 - Everyday Classics from Doglotion on Vimeo.

Not Your Normal Climbing Video: BORDER COUNTRY by Jeremy Collins

Border Country from Jeremy Collins on Vimeo.

Jeremy Collins ... Climbing as inspiration for art



CLICK HERE TO EXPLORE HIS FASCINATING WEBSITE.

Steck ... the man, the myth, the legend



A decade ago he discovered the NCS crag, he has single-handedly (with help of students) trundled loose rock, dug out stumps, and unearthed climbs. Today he was out at 7 am cleaning the crag, and when I got there at 8 am he was doing bouldering laps on the 150 foot long, 5.11 low traverse.

All You Ever Wanted To Know About Climbing Rope



CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THIS INFPRMATIVE ESSAY BY STERLING ROPE COMPANY.

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Monday, June 20, 2011

Video review of the nordic junior domestic circuit

Tighten It Up from Revived Films on Vimeo.

John Dickey is going climbing again in Kyrgyzstan ... Would you be going back if you were him?



A decade ago, he had a traumatic expedition, in which he was lucky enough to get out alive. The climbing looked fantastic, but I am pretty sure I wouldn't be going back ... Read the blurb about the book and his story from Amazon. Com ... OVER THE EDGE: A year before America woke to the madness of Islamic terrorism, four young American rock climbers were pulled directly into its line of fire on a rock climbing expedition 80 miles from Afghanistan. Oblivious to the volatile mix of ethnic strife, drug smuggling, and militant Islam brewing there, the four had been seeking extreme adventure in the "Yosemite Valley" of Central Asia. Greg Child gives a riveting chronicle of their capture by militants of the Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan (linked to al Qaeda), who dragged them through six harrowing days of gun battles before the four made their dramatic escape. . --Lesley Reed

CLICK HERE TO READ AND LISTEN TO THE NPR STORY.

Father's Day on Chapel Pond Slabs



THIS IS POSSIBLY THE BEST, MOST SCENIC, EASY MULTI-PICTH ROUTE IN THE EAST. IF YOU HAVE NOT DONE IT IN AWHILE COME ON UP, STAY AT THE FOSSIL CABIN, AND ENJOY!

Sunday, June 19, 2011

The Queen ... Chronicler of Himalayan Climbing



CLICK HERE TO READ THE OUSTIDE ONLINE ARTICLE ABOUT ELIZABETH HAWLEY.

(My favorite line, was the story about Messner being interviewed by her and when asked about his current marital status, he checked all the boxes: single, married, divorced, and living with girlfriend.)

Saturday, June 18, 2011

Mid-May ... The Last Haute Route Trip of 2011

Last week's first big Adirondack mountain workout!

Light Is Right



I am hoping to get to the East side of the Sierras in late August after a business trip to the Bay Area. Imagining that maybe Mark's knee will have healed, or that Danny will be available, I wondered how light my pack MIGHT be for a classic day trip like Matthes Crest. And so this morning I packed two day packs, one conventional and the other with the super light gear I have been slowly acquiring ... an impressive ten pound difference! Where did the difference come from? The 11 oz pack pictured, a wind jacket/pant combo that was 6 oz, a 9.2 mm instead of my standard 10 mm rope, a CAMP helmet that was 6 oz, a CAMP ski rando harness (4 oz) instead of a standard BD rig, gu instead of the traditional lunch of cheese-salami-orange, and one water bottle/iodine tablets instead of two quarts of water. Finally, I left the rock shoes out of the super light pack figuring I could climb the route in my SPORTIVA approach shoes.

Hiking the Olympic Biathlon Trails



Trying to drop a few pounds and regain the fitness I had in the Alps. The biathlon trails are not as steep and as rugged as the Porter Mountain nordic loops, however as folks mountain bike the biathlon trails, they are mowed a bit in the summer, so offer better hiking with poles. I went out for 45 minutes jaunt, and then read some old climbing magazines in the Fossil cabin. I re-read a great article on the history of climbing in the Ruth Gorge ... Should we go there instead of Peru?

Another Dougal Haston Blast From The Past



I just started re-reading Dougal's novel - highly autobiographical - which he finished shortly before his death. A quick read, a nice forward by Doug Scott, thin characters, but a definite window into the heart and soul (heartless would be more apt) of a man at the cutting edge of 1970s climbing. The dust jacket photograph taken by Mick Burke is from a winter bivy on the North Face of the Matterhorn. Dougal's climbing career, more or less, followed the traditional progression: Scottish rock, Scottish ice, hard routes in the Dolomites, a tour of the classic hard routes of the Western Alps, winter routes in the Alps, and then the Himalaya.

Dougal made several attempts on the North Face before he finally had success in the early 1960s.

RAPPEL KNOT TESTS



CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE BLACK DIAMOND QUALITY CONTROL EVALUATION OF RAPPEL KNOTS.

GEAR REVIEW: lightweight alpine touring bindings



CLICK HERE TO READ A COMPREHENSIVE REVIEW FROM THE GET STRONGER GO LONGER BLOG.

A Bit of History ... Scottish ice climbing



No doubt readers of this blog have heard me talk about that historic week on Ben Nevis, when in 1961 Wheech (Robin Smirh) and the Old Man (Jimmy Marshall) climbed all the hard routes in sight. Certainly I urge you to see the video re-enactment Pinnacle (Hotaches films), flip through your old copy of Ken Wilson's COLD CLIMBS, and of course you need to read the famous SMC essay below.

CLICK HERE TO READ THIS ESSAY ABOUT THE FIRST ASCENT OF ORION FACE DIRECT.

Trailer for a new rock climbing video

It has been hard to get motivated for rock climbing this Spring ... Snows lingering into April with May-June absurdly wet. Use this short piece for some external motivation, and get out there on the rock.

The Scene Official Trailer from Chuck Fryberger on Vimeo.

Friday, June 17, 2011

Resorting to Madness

The trailer for a documentary about the problems caused by ski resorts an the associated real estate growth and development.

Are They The Hot Ticket? Read these Gear Reviews, If You Are You Looking To Upgrade Your Backcountry Skis?



CLICK HERE TO READ LOU DAWSON'S WILD SNOW REVIEW.

In addition you ought to read this more in-depth coverage.

CLICK HERE TO READ DANE'S REVIEW ON COLD THISTLE ALPINISM.

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

The Physiology of Warm Ups




CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE NEW YORK TIMES ARTICLE WHICH SUMMARIZES WHAT WE DO, AND DON NOT KNOW ABOUT WARMING UP.

BLAST FROM THE PAST



Having just re-read THE PHILOSOPHY OF RISK, and listened to THE BOYS OF EVEREST, I was reminded of what an amazing climb the 1970 route on the South Face of Annapurna was. It was way ahead of its time, and Dougal Haston and Don Whillans were simply brilliant. Dougal had been a climbing star after the Eiger Direct, however this climb put him in the Mick Jagger, rock star category. (Remember, click on the photograph to enlarge the image.)

Ueli Steck and Project Himalaya



CLICK ON THIS LINK TO VIEW FRED WILKINSON'S ANNOTATED SLIDESHOW.

A Must Have Mont Blanc Reference



CLICK ON THIS LINK TO A LIST OF 130+ EASY CLASSIC ROUTES IN THE CHAMONIX AREA. THIS VALUABLE RESOURCE INCLUDES SPECIFIC PAGE NUMBERS AND GUIDEBOOKS SO THAT YOU MAY LOOK THEM UP QUICKLY IN THE OFFICE DE HAUTE MONTAGNE. IT COMES IN A DOWNLOADABLE PDF.

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Storms have stopped ... laps on the NCS Crag



After a busy day, I headed up to the crag with my soloist to run laps on some moderate routes. The bugs were bad. The rock was wet. However, it was great ro scratch anorothosite!

First Days in Cham

Pisco and Pisco Sours



A year from now I will be head to Peru for my 60th. Time to set your sights on 6000 meters, and to read up on the national drink of Peru. Click here to read this short and informative article

.

Thursday, June 9, 2011

New England Ice Climbing Is Just Six Months Away

Watch Steve House soloing two classic New Hampshire test-pieces ... Repentance and Remission. Thanks to Dane at Cold Thistle for unearthing this Patagonia/Granite Films production.

BACON FOR THE FOSSILS



Lucy and Selden picked up five piglets to raise for meat. Notice that one is named after a famous climber - Cassin - in honor of the fact that we will have some tasty meals coming up at the next gathering of the Fossil clan in December. So it's not too early to send your screws out for sharpening, or ask for a nomic ice tool for Father's Day.

Ski Routes on Denali




CLICK HERE TO READ ABOUT ANDREAS FRANSSON'S DESCENTS OF THE ORIENT EXPRESS, WEST BUTTRESS, AND SOUTH FACE.

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Easy Laps on Owl's Head



A hot and humid day, even in the Adirondacks it hit 86 degrees! After the last day of our end of year meetings I headed out for a short hike and some mild fourth and fifth class soloing on the summit. It was quite windy as we have a front moving in, and tomorrow we will have high winds and hail.

Hoping to do the regular route on the North face of Half Dome?

No doubt this is still on many fossil hit lists, however after watching this video, I think we will probably all want to take the longer hiking trail and cables to the base of the route. Watch this very recent rockfall.

Landslides on Whiteface



CLICK ON THIS LINK TO READ THE NEWSPAPER ARTICLE ABOUT THESE RECENT ROCK SLIDES.

May 16th Ski Descent of the North Face of the Midi ... Mallory Route

scrub it 01 from julien regnier on Vimeo.

Cassin Ridge on Denail ... New speed record



CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE ARTICLE IN THE ALPINIST.

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Dougal Haston, Clint Eastwood, and The Eiger Sanction



Dougal's ISM guide service helped to turn Clint (Jonathan Hemlock) and the other actors into "climbers." Dougal also was hired to be the Safety Officer, however after a fatality on one of the first days of filming he was moved to a lateral position. (Hamish MacInnes took over as safety officer.) Dougal ended up also working as a stunt double for Anderl, the Austrian climber in the green parka. I watched this murder mystery on Netflix recently and the climbing scenes hold up surprisingly well. The movie was panned however when it came out in 1975.

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Skiing a 6,000 meter Peruvian Peak

Remy Lecluse and Glen Plake ski Callangate, in the Cordillera Blanca outside Cusco.

Tutamankakama from Rémy lécluse on Vimeo.

Skiing in the Himalaya

This video is called "Rice On Ice" and along with a bunch of hot-Euros, it features Glen Plake. These folks skied numerous lines in the Kulu region of India.

Rice on Ice, Extreme skiing in Indian Himalayas from Rémy lécluse on Vimeo.

TWIGHT ON TRAINING




CLICK HERE TO GET THE FIRST OF A THREE PART ESSAY ... Know in advance he is maniacal.

Cragging



The past few days have been gorgeous, and that is supposed to change with 3-4 days of thunderstorms on the way. I headed up to the NCS crag to get some easy laps in before the weather deteriorates. Graduation went well, and now it is time to set a climbing goal or two.

Meathead Films and skiing in the East

Last night we had our end of the year staff party, and I had a short chat with Jake, the 20 year old son of my assistant head. He is an NCS ALUMNUS, and an amazing competitive free-style skier, but he also skis for this video company that just shoots pictures in the East.

"Work It Out" - iTunes Movie Trailer - Meathead Films from Meathead Films on Vimeo.

Skiing Big Alaskan Peaks



CLICK HERE TO READ AN INTERVIEW WITH THE PRODUCERS OF THE VIDEO AT TELLURIDE MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL

Friday, June 3, 2011

US and Canadian Nordic Team ... May ski camp

A 75 second video of these studs going through their on-snow and dryland paces.

Thursday, June 2, 2011

MOUNTAIN CAKES



Since 1981 at NCS we have had a friendly student competition to see who hikes the most miles. Every year we make special cakes to honor these dedicated hikers, and print a limited edition T-shirt for the "nasty nine," or "terrible ten," or in this case the "dirty dozen." for those that are counting - it's a baker's dozen - oh and by the way my daughter Lucy in the top row made the cut.