Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Big Route Option


Frendo Spur D+ (Fr Alpine)

A classic mixed route at the grade. Cross the bergschrund and climb the snow terrasses rightwards until it is possible to gain a leftward-slanting series of ramps. Climb along these until the rock steepens, then take a series of easy corners and chimneys trending slightly rightwards to gain the crest of the spur.

Climb this by the easiest line, following regular pegs and tat, until a notch is reached. Do not climb the prominent corner facing the notch, instead go slightly left up an overlap (crux of the rock section, in-situ pegs) and continue up the left hand side of the crest to the top of the rock. Don your crampons and head up the aesthetically pleasing snow crest (55 degrees at the top). This leads to the rock rognon. Most parties turn this on the left past bolted belays (50m intervals) to a steep top pitch (scottish III / IV) and the final plod to the station.

length:1200m