Dougal Haston was the lone member of the small Anglo-American team to make it on the final push up the Eiger Direct, after John Harlin fell to his death when a fixed rope broke while he was jumaring. This climb catapulted Dougal into superstar status. He continued to do hard winter routes in the Alps and in the Himalayas until his death. Robin Campbell wrote a moving obituary in the 1976 SMC Journal, reprinted in the anthology GAMES CLIMBERS PLAY which closed with the line ...
"He's gone and, with him, a long loping stride, narrow hips, wide shoulders, a lipless grin and bright blue bivouacked eyes."
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