What follow's is Dick's unbiased account:
Friday 3/11. Arrive in G 7;25 and in Argen by9:30.
Bought baguettes and pastries at boulangerie and cafe outside in sun at Le Dahu.
Change into ski gear in back room of La Couronne, and at Gran Montet by 10:30. Hadn't made dinner reservation so ate at The Office. Good beer, terrible burgers and drunk young Aussies.
Lefty had arrived noon with lost skis. Met Hock in Cham at six. Walked around and had beers outside. Dumb idea as it was cold and then had missed last bus until 10:30 as well last train. Lucky to get cab back to Arg.
Sat 12. Ski Gran Montet again after Lefty locates skis in bar storeroom. Good dry snow on moguls off piste. Baguettes for lunch again at Lognan "bagel" place. Dinner at La Flambe excellent. Passed on skinning with Hock and Carter.
Sun 13. Met Geoffroy at 9 instead of scheduled 7:30. By time he'd passed out avi gear and we got to Gran Montet it was after 10. Summit tram closed due to high wind. So we start skinning at Lognan. Easy pitch but Stegs has trouble from start. Bad snow and high wind along Argentierre glacier. G had us abandon because it was taking too long. Disappointing, and even more so when he said that we could not do HR. But as a group we agreed w/out hesitation not to leave Stegs behind. DPhi "in the bonds" thing. We later learned that no one successfully completed HOUR I'm entire time we were there. Dinner at Le Dahu w Hock and Carter.
Mon. 14. Tram up to Aguille de Midi. Crampons on and roped down the knife edge. Ski short way and skin long climb over to fresh 30 cm untracked off of the typical Vallee Blanche route. Great day in perfect sunshine. Took a lot too long, so G had us go ahead behind Italian guide with small group on Mer de Glace so that we wouldn't miss last train at 4:30. Lefty and I met guide (Pete, guide school classmate of G's) on lift to train down (after climbing 356 steps) who was only second American guide. Stegs did make train (and counted the stairs up from the glacier. Dinner again at La Flambe.
Tues 15. Left La Couronne for short bus up to Le Tour lifts in a.m. without Stegs. 2 lifts up to about 2000 metres and then on skins to steep couloir with boots at end. Weather sunny at that point but wind picking up. Ski over to entrance to Couloir and belay on skis down steep rocky short entrance on to long left traverse. G had lefty follow me without skis but too icy. Murph then belayed on skis but fell after releasing from belay. Lost 50 metres and started to lose energy and fall behind. Another big climb on skins and weather closed in and got extremely windy. Estimated 100 kph. G had us on boots at last steep pitch with very bad steps. After top ridge could hardly see in blowing snow and stinging ice. Got to cirque at top and G had us dig cave in to windpacked snow. Murph far behind at bottom of climb and G left to find him. Rejoined us at around 7 and G said we'd ski in dark to Trient hut. Got warmer clothes on in cave. Skins off and roped up for descent into plain but as slope steepened G was unhappy with progress and put me on rope, apparently I'm event fell into crevasse, with others skiing behind. Unaware that H lost a pole in a fall while roped, to which G replies "not my problem" when told by H. Long slog across glacial plain to Trient jut. Got to last few meters below hut. Hutkeeper, Olivier met us and led us up short climb. All had various levels of exhaustion. Natalie made tea, soup and macaroni with meat stew.
Magnificent reception at hut. In two days there we were only patrons of hut that sleeps 110. Began to dawn on us that our HR assault. was not propitious.
Weds 16. With Murph's frostbite, lingering fatigue, and lack of will plus little visibility, so we did not do out and back route planned. Went over equipment in a.m. by discussing G's pack. Great lunch cooked by Olivier. Duck salad, pork medallions and creme caramel. In p.m. avi training, snow shelter building and using skis and pack for evacuation sled, while M slept.
Thursday 17. After 7:30 breakfast, departed hut. Harry able to get old pole to use to replace one he lost on roped descent. G gave M warm glove for use, since M had lost it in wind Tuesday night. Skins off from hut and good new powder to short very steep unroped climb on boots. Not good steps. Long descent on increasingly wet new snow down to Champex. There by 11 to meet cab at 12. Ate the sausage cheese and bread I'd carried. Back I'm Arg showered and went to Cham for a few hours of walking, sports store shopping and coffee/beers. Bread and cheese and then Pizza from Stone bar, 5 bottles of Gamay and 1 of Bourdeau in hotel common room.
Friday 18. Flegere lifts. Short descent to long climb up steep col after traverse to right. Booted up last pitch. Ski great untracked to right traverse and lunch in bright sun. Long easy climb to long descent ending on below tree line trail following stream with water, rocks and roots and scrub down to Le Buet east of Arg near Swiss border. Cold demiliters of 1664 beer in sun outside of hotel waiting for Stegs. Train with cog sections back to Arg. Good day. Great dinner at Chez Anais arranged by Murph who had taken day off.
Saturday 19. Had rained all night, turning to snow before 7 a.m. Met G at Gran Montet. Trams to top. Windy and cold. Only Lefty and I followed G across right traverse towards Arg glacier. Nice new tracks off piste. Second run up Bronard gondola and search for untracked to right but snow heavy and cut up. Met others after second gondola run. Took chair up left side and ski down to restaurant for cake soup coffee in fog and snow that closed I'm and made it nearly impossible to find restaurant. Good ski down off piste after sky cleared completely. Dinner at Le Dahu.
Sunday 20. Lefty Harry and I go with G after we all meet at 8:30 at Gran Montet and long wait for trams across Arg Glacier. Nice snow down to arg glacier and view of Argentiere hut off to right. Bear off of skin track that leads to Arg hut and climb Col du Chardonet. Harry loses left ski on first steep kick turn and worse I take skis off and turn on boots. Better turning after that, but many turns. Col flattens out and straight track nearly to final pitch. But in order to get back for 4:05 train we stop at 1:10 after 2:30 of climbing. Lunch in blazing sun. Ski untracked down Chardonet and snow transitions from powder to heavy untracked as slope steepens. I finally fall pleasing everyone. Harry skis over our lines despite G telling him to "ski your own way."
Back to hotel to gather gear and clothing and down to station in plenty of time. Train back past Le Buet to Valorcene (at la frontierre) and change to Swiss train, down canyon to Champagny. Change to train east to Visp and then again to cog rr up to Zermatt. Arrived about 7:50, which was lucky since baggage storage closed at 8, and attendant had no interest in working to find our bags. Hock had met us on arrival and we found all of our bags down a level. Walked up through town to Hotel Weisshorn. Nice small rooms with terraces on the north side looking back at the church and town. Couldn't get table for 7 at Whymper tavern so walked back up to eat at restaurant adjacent to hotel. Lots of raclette, rosti and Cardinal beers.
Monday 21. Great Swiss breakfast at hotel. Met Hock at Gornergrat train. Ascended to Gornergrat at 3100 m. Took pix of Matterhorn, Monta Rosa, Gornergrat glacier, and Hock and Murph reconfirming their faith and confessing their sins in mountaintop chapel. Cafe at 3100 Hotel in bright sun. Ski down to Riffelberg and Riffelalp but lost track of Hock. Cafe again at small restaurant next to piste. Ski down wooded trail with bare spots to top of town. Back to Weisshorn at 12:45. Lunch at Walliserkanne. Bought chocolates. Retrieved bags and walk to station for 3:39 to Visp and then direct to Geneve Aeroport station. Find hotel van stop and van to NH hotel by 8:00. Have the bottle of Medoc given us by G in room. Dinner at hotel restaurant.
Tuesday 22. First shuttle at 5:50 too late for Lefty. We take it to airport and are checked in with an hour to spare. All in one piece even if some serious frostbite.
Coda about Geoffroy Arvis. Great guy. Colonel in Gendarmerie left to become guide rather than take promotion to desk in Paris. Lives hour north of Chamonix. Grew up in Bourgogne near town of Chablis. Son of general practice physician. Master of uphill kick turns and extremely fit. Married with 2 girls, 4 and 1. Can be stern when he thinks barking will motivate or when, to quote him, saving our lives. But also, as he observed, patient with Bob and not with me. Next trip we engage him directly.
Bought baguettes and pastries at boulangerie and cafe outside in sun at Le Dahu.
Change into ski gear in back room of La Couronne, and at Gran Montet by 10:30. Hadn't made dinner reservation so ate at The Office. Good beer, terrible burgers and drunk young Aussies.
Lefty had arrived noon with lost skis. Met Hock in Cham at six. Walked around and had beers outside. Dumb idea as it was cold and then had missed last bus until 10:30 as well last train. Lucky to get cab back to Arg.
Sat 12. Ski Gran Montet again after Lefty locates skis in bar storeroom. Good dry snow on moguls off piste. Baguettes for lunch again at Lognan "bagel" place. Dinner at La Flambe excellent. Passed on skinning with Hock and Carter.
Sun 13. Met Geoffroy at 9 instead of scheduled 7:30. By time he'd passed out avi gear and we got to Gran Montet it was after 10. Summit tram closed due to high wind. So we start skinning at Lognan. Easy pitch but Stegs has trouble from start. Bad snow and high wind along Argentierre glacier. G had us abandon because it was taking too long. Disappointing, and even more so when he said that we could not do HR. But as a group we agreed w/out hesitation not to leave Stegs behind. DPhi "in the bonds" thing. We later learned that no one successfully completed HOUR I'm entire time we were there. Dinner at Le Dahu w Hock and Carter.
Mon. 14. Tram up to Aguille de Midi. Crampons on and roped down the knife edge. Ski short way and skin long climb over to fresh 30 cm untracked off of the typical Vallee Blanche route. Great day in perfect sunshine. Took a lot too long, so G had us go ahead behind Italian guide with small group on Mer de Glace so that we wouldn't miss last train at 4:30. Lefty and I met guide (Pete, guide school classmate of G's) on lift to train down (after climbing 356 steps) who was only second American guide. Stegs did make train (and counted the stairs up from the glacier. Dinner again at La Flambe.
Tues 15. Left La Couronne for short bus up to Le Tour lifts in a.m. without Stegs. 2 lifts up to about 2000 metres and then on skins to steep couloir with boots at end. Weather sunny at that point but wind picking up. Ski over to entrance to Couloir and belay on skis down steep rocky short entrance on to long left traverse. G had lefty follow me without skis but too icy. Murph then belayed on skis but fell after releasing from belay. Lost 50 metres and started to lose energy and fall behind. Another big climb on skins and weather closed in and got extremely windy. Estimated 100 kph. G had us on boots at last steep pitch with very bad steps. After top ridge could hardly see in blowing snow and stinging ice. Got to cirque at top and G had us dig cave in to windpacked snow. Murph far behind at bottom of climb and G left to find him. Rejoined us at around 7 and G said we'd ski in dark to Trient hut. Got warmer clothes on in cave. Skins off and roped up for descent into plain but as slope steepened G was unhappy with progress and put me on rope, apparently I'm event fell into crevasse, with others skiing behind. Unaware that H lost a pole in a fall while roped, to which G replies "not my problem" when told by H. Long slog across glacial plain to Trient jut. Got to last few meters below hut. Hutkeeper, Olivier met us and led us up short climb. All had various levels of exhaustion. Natalie made tea, soup and macaroni with meat stew.
Magnificent reception at hut. In two days there we were only patrons of hut that sleeps 110. Began to dawn on us that our HR assault. was not propitious.
Weds 16. With Murph's frostbite, lingering fatigue, and lack of will plus little visibility, so we did not do out and back route planned. Went over equipment in a.m. by discussing G's pack. Great lunch cooked by Olivier. Duck salad, pork medallions and creme caramel. In p.m. avi training, snow shelter building and using skis and pack for evacuation sled, while M slept.
Thursday 17. After 7:30 breakfast, departed hut. Harry able to get old pole to use to replace one he lost on roped descent. G gave M warm glove for use, since M had lost it in wind Tuesday night. Skins off from hut and good new powder to short very steep unroped climb on boots. Not good steps. Long descent on increasingly wet new snow down to Champex. There by 11 to meet cab at 12. Ate the sausage cheese and bread I'd carried. Back I'm Arg showered and went to Cham for a few hours of walking, sports store shopping and coffee/beers. Bread and cheese and then Pizza from Stone bar, 5 bottles of Gamay and 1 of Bourdeau in hotel common room.
Friday 18. Flegere lifts. Short descent to long climb up steep col after traverse to right. Booted up last pitch. Ski great untracked to right traverse and lunch in bright sun. Long easy climb to long descent ending on below tree line trail following stream with water, rocks and roots and scrub down to Le Buet east of Arg near Swiss border. Cold demiliters of 1664 beer in sun outside of hotel waiting for Stegs. Train with cog sections back to Arg. Good day. Great dinner at Chez Anais arranged by Murph who had taken day off.
Saturday 19. Had rained all night, turning to snow before 7 a.m. Met G at Gran Montet. Trams to top. Windy and cold. Only Lefty and I followed G across right traverse towards Arg glacier. Nice new tracks off piste. Second run up Bronard gondola and search for untracked to right but snow heavy and cut up. Met others after second gondola run. Took chair up left side and ski down to restaurant for cake soup coffee in fog and snow that closed I'm and made it nearly impossible to find restaurant. Good ski down off piste after sky cleared completely. Dinner at Le Dahu.
Sunday 20. Lefty Harry and I go with G after we all meet at 8:30 at Gran Montet and long wait for trams across Arg Glacier. Nice snow down to arg glacier and view of Argentiere hut off to right. Bear off of skin track that leads to Arg hut and climb Col du Chardonet. Harry loses left ski on first steep kick turn and worse I take skis off and turn on boots. Better turning after that, but many turns. Col flattens out and straight track nearly to final pitch. But in order to get back for 4:05 train we stop at 1:10 after 2:30 of climbing. Lunch in blazing sun. Ski untracked down Chardonet and snow transitions from powder to heavy untracked as slope steepens. I finally fall pleasing everyone. Harry skis over our lines despite G telling him to "ski your own way."
Back to hotel to gather gear and clothing and down to station in plenty of time. Train back past Le Buet to Valorcene (at la frontierre) and change to Swiss train, down canyon to Champagny. Change to train east to Visp and then again to cog rr up to Zermatt. Arrived about 7:50, which was lucky since baggage storage closed at 8, and attendant had no interest in working to find our bags. Hock had met us on arrival and we found all of our bags down a level. Walked up through town to Hotel Weisshorn. Nice small rooms with terraces on the north side looking back at the church and town. Couldn't get table for 7 at Whymper tavern so walked back up to eat at restaurant adjacent to hotel. Lots of raclette, rosti and Cardinal beers.
Monday 21. Great Swiss breakfast at hotel. Met Hock at Gornergrat train. Ascended to Gornergrat at 3100 m. Took pix of Matterhorn, Monta Rosa, Gornergrat glacier, and Hock and Murph reconfirming their faith and confessing their sins in mountaintop chapel. Cafe at 3100 Hotel in bright sun. Ski down to Riffelberg and Riffelalp but lost track of Hock. Cafe again at small restaurant next to piste. Ski down wooded trail with bare spots to top of town. Back to Weisshorn at 12:45. Lunch at Walliserkanne. Bought chocolates. Retrieved bags and walk to station for 3:39 to Visp and then direct to Geneve Aeroport station. Find hotel van stop and van to NH hotel by 8:00. Have the bottle of Medoc given us by G in room. Dinner at hotel restaurant.
Tuesday 22. First shuttle at 5:50 too late for Lefty. We take it to airport and are checked in with an hour to spare. All in one piece even if some serious frostbite.
Coda about Geoffroy Arvis. Great guy. Colonel in Gendarmerie left to become guide rather than take promotion to desk in Paris. Lives hour north of Chamonix. Grew up in Bourgogne near town of Chablis. Son of general practice physician. Master of uphill kick turns and extremely fit. Married with 2 girls, 4 and 1. Can be stern when he thinks barking will motivate or when, to quote him, saving our lives. But also, as he observed, patient with Bob and not with me. Next trip we engage him directly.
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