Back in the mid-1970s the Alaskan climbing scene was a bit different than today. The NPS had a mandatory four person minimum, and a gear check, that included a radio. Packs and sleds were unbearably heavy. Fixing rope was common on all routes, and multiple camps inching up the mountain were the norm. (Jon Waterman talked about Messner seeing heavily laden expedition style mountaineers on the Kahiltna, and responding with: "You Americans, you disgust me.")
Five years later Mark and I climbed Denali with half the weight and twice the speed ... Alpine style had come to Alaska.
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