Perusing the book Yankee Rock And Ice

"The first real stimulant to New England ice climbing standards took the adventitious form of a visiting professorship. During the academic years of 1927 to 1930, Harvard University hosted the British geologist Noel E. Odell, a name that readers ofthe romantic epics of early attempts on MountEverest will at once recognize. Odell occupied, for a brief span, a position in New England ice climbing somewhat analogous to that of Fritz Wiessner on rock (chapter 7) and the great skier Jackrabbit Johannsen on snow: a migrant from an area with more advanced standards who raised the sights of the New England locals."

Selden’s article from The Journal Of The American Revolution

https://allthingsliberty.com/2026/10/payback-attack-on-the-delancey-house/

Fifteen Memorable Eastern Rock Climbs

GUNKS. Horseman 5.5 High Exposure 5.5 Yellow Ridge 5.7 Arrow 5.8 Pas De Deux 5.8 Birdland 5.9 ADIRONDACKS. Regular Route Chapel Pond 5.5 Tilman’s Arete 5.7 Pete’s Farewell 5.7 Hesitation 5.8 Gamesmanship 5.8 Slim Pickins 5.9 WHITE MOUNTAIN Thin Air 5.6 Whitney Gilman 5.7 Sliding Board 5.7

Another good rehab week

Decreasing pain meds while the volume is increasing is certainly a good sign, additionally I continue to make incremental gains in knee flexion. Last week I logged 14 hours, on 145k (127k bike and 18k walking), with just under 1650’ vertical, as well as a couple of PT strength session, and some PT stretching for range of motion.

Long day: to and from the NY Giant football game

They blew a ten point lead, with a minute left in the first, and then fell apart in the second half. The tailgating was fabulous, and I had a great time with Lenny.

First real snow of the season

We got our first measurable snow this morning

Just a dusting here on the farm, but about an inch at higher elevations, and certainly measurable at the Whiteface Atmospheric Research Center.

Cold snap coming and thinking of ski season

I have started to use this mug for both morning tea and whiskey during cocktail hour.

A wonderful day and 126 degrees of flexion

BLAST FROM THE PAST: a bakers dozen of my best eastern ice

Summary of recent nordic combined nationals

https://nordicinsights.news/2026/10/11/niklas-malacinski-tara-geraghty-moats-win-nordic-combined-national-championships-in-lake-placid/

Cold Snap coming

Late Friday into Saturday we will have temperatures 20 (or more) degrees colder than normal, and bring with it, measurable snow at higher elevations.

Pictures from the Nordic Combined National Championships

Fifth week post-surgery

My rehab progress continues: knee flexion continues to increase, incremental gains in volume, vertical, and hours of exercise, as well as enjoying more outings. This week I logged 14:20 hours of exercise, on 138k (122k bike and 16k run), with 1600’ vertical gain. Additionally, I had several stretching/range of motion sessions, as well as two, targeted PT, strength sessions.

This is not a political blog but I couldn’t resist

Thanks for an assist from chatGPT.

Spectating the Nordic Combined National Championship

Spectacularly day to watch the jumping and skiing! My college buddy Klink came up for the day.

A great story, a fantastic tiny college and a wonderful video.

I bump into these Nordic skiers all season long. In late October they are doing laps on the Whiteface toll road whenever 2-3 inches of snow falls. As soon as Mount Van Hoevenberg starts making snow they are there. https://cms.fasterskier.com/2026/10/paul-smiths-dougherty-national-title/

My plan for upcoming months

In the past two days I have had good conversations with my PT guy and my surgeon, now that I am in my fifth week post-surgery. I mostly just asked them if my concept of a walk-jog-run progression, as well as my thought on volume and vertical progressions seemed realistic. With their proviso - (“don’t do anything stupid”) - they seemed to think it was manageable. Then of course, I set out alterations to include inevitable seasonal change of activities.

Another sketch of my climbing history

The North Ridge of the Grand is a fantastic route, and at the time of its first ascent (1931) probably the hardest alpine climb in America.

More thoughts about ski season

In a humorous sort of way …

More World Cup photos from my buddy Klink

It was a good week, with UCI races and continued incremental post-surgery gains. I continue to log more exercise, this week managing 13.5 hours, on 108k (96k exercise bike and 12k hike), with 900’ vertical ascent, and also several stretching and PT strength sessions.

Starting to think about ski season

Skiing has started in Ruka; in two weeks there will be tracks also in Canmore; and of course there will be tracks over Thanksgiving at Mount Van Hoevenberg. Given my new knee, I am hoping to be nordic skiing on easy terrain after Thanksgiving.

GREAT DAY at the UCI MTB WORLD CUP

I am exhausted having logged more kilometers on the new knee than I ought to!

Semi-rad’s take on the question: Did you win?

Sketching through my climbing history!

Including the ones that got away! I first saw the Matterhorn in December 1972, at the tail end of a semester off from college with Dick, vagabonding about Europe. I was smitten, and when I came back in 1978, I was an “aspiring hard man” and had just knocked off 3-4 classic ice routes, thus I vowed “I would get on the hornligrat as I descend it, from one of the sexier alternatives.” Of course, the partner I had hooked up with, had to go back to work, and I got sick. (I count that three month European climbing trip, as my longest bivy … no money for campgrounds, huts, or lifts) Thankfully, Lenny and his travelers checks nursed me back to health, and for my payback I was meant to guide him up the Matterhorn, but alas the weather was crappy. I came back in 1992 with Gary with designs on the North Face; then came back again in 2012 with Carter Rowley; in both cases we had great ski tours and some good warmup climbs, but never enough settled weather to jump on the Schmid route. So, it seems the Matterhorn will have to wait until my next reincarnation.

Swiss glaciers shrink dramatically

 https://www.aol.com/articles/swiss-glaciers-lose-more-5-230131000.html