Taking a break

This year at the NCS and CTT Alta reunion I pledged to take a daily
break from skiing the lifts and do a tour. Here I am getting ready to
rip the hides after skinning up 750'. I will have to be very conservative in my route selection as the avalanche danger is high, and I will be solo on these alpine ski tours.

Friends of Tuckerman's Ravine

A small non-profit started by Brad Ray - who was the snow ranger during my tenure as the Harvard cabin caretaker - has the mission of protecting the integrity of the ravine and working in collaboration with the National Forest Service. Click on this text to watch a short six minute video about their work, and the alpine history of Tuckerman's Ravine. There is some great footage of skiing in the early 1920s.

Bouldering

A gorgeous day. After work I schlepped a 25 pound pack up Owl's Head
and did 10 laps up the 35' corner. It was only 5.2 but it was a good
way to unwind and start the season.

Adirondack Alpine Trilogy

She’s a stud ... On the same beautiful day that the Fossils were hoofing their climbing gear into in Avalanche, Lake Emilie Drinkwater linked up the North Face of Gothics, the Grand Central snow chute on Marcy, and the Trap Dike on Colden. We must have just missed her on our way out. Click on the text to access a link and read her article.

Chapel Pond

Something you probably overlooked on your recent alpine adventures when you were swinging ice tools on Chouinards, cruising up the slabs in your rock shoes, or bagging the nearby peaks ... click on the photograph to enlarge it and read my son's article.

Ski Mountaineering Videos

Click on this text to access the enclosed link featuring video clips of various extreme ski mountaineering trips: Huascaran, Robson, Waddington, and Valdez. (A bit of eye candy for those that are already suffering from a bout of depression now that the winter alpine season has ended.)

Tuckerman's Ravine Today

This webcam view from Wildcat mountain shows pretty good conditions ... of course its still pretty darn cold on the summit ... no velvety corn snow yet!

A Short Hike

Last evening just before dinner I hiked up Owl's Head. The trail is almost mud-free, and the crag is dry, so next trip up I will bring my shoes to boulder. Of course, you can see in the distance that Giant Mountain still has a very thick snow cover. (As always click on the photograph to enlarge the image.)

The Mayor of Alta

I am getting ready for the School and Camp reunion to Alta next week, and came across this great article about our host - Bill Levitt - who is married to an NCS graduate and is a former NCS parent as well. Click on this text to access a link and read an interesting profile of Bill Levitt in the New York Times.

On a related note, I enclosed a picture of Mount Superior's classic south ridge as I am hoping to take a day off from the lifts at Alta and climb the South Ridge of Mount Superior (II, 5.5 and 50 degree snow).

The Adirondacks are grey, drizzly, wet, and cold ...

but Chamonix - the epicenter of all things related to skiing, mountains, and alpinism - is enjoying some fabulous weather. These webcam shots were from this morning, and I believe that webcam shot of Flegere must be from the lift that Larry and I bivouacked in!

Last Tour of Season?

Maybe? With the 2" of fresh snow from last night, and the 0-2" base, I headed out for a 60 minute tour on the Porter Mountain loop. Typical Eastern Spring nordic skiing ... one part gritty, one part clumpy, and one part delightful striding. When I bumped into another tourer, we both agreed, it sure beats running!

My Last Whiteface Day of the Season

Conditions were scratchy to say the least. I spent Saturday telemarking on the mountain with about half of the NCS students. Conditions didn't seem to phase these Korean students one bit, although I can tell you it was taxing for my mountaineering boards and tired alpine legs.

Brad Washburn Photos

A small sampling of the 62 photos in the Mount Washington Observatory gallery, all of which are for sale. These pictures profile both Huntington and Tuckerman's Ravines at different points in the Winter. This recently deceased renaissance man - scientist, author, photographer, expedition leader, alpinist, and mountaineer - also proved to be the source of the photos for the original fossil attempt on the Cassin Ridge of Denali. (Click on the text to access the link which will allow you to visit the Washburn gallery.)

Where will you be on May 2?

LEGEND 1 - Left Gulley
2 - Chute Variation South
3 - The Chute
4 - Chute Variation North
5 - Center Gully South
6 - Center Gully North
7 - The Icefall
8 - The Lip
9 - The Sluice
10 - Right Gully (Lobster Claw, Lion Head Gully 1 2 & 3 further over)
Easier routes are Left Gully, Right Gully (and Hillmans over and south of the bowl) from my experience.

The cornice at the top of Left Gulley has been measured at 55 degrees.

Middle routes are steeper reaching 40-50+ degrees at their steeper sections. Most routes get steep the higher you go with the sever pitches just below the lip of the headwall.

Certainly the Icefall is the steepest and usually involves some airtime, at least in the spring.

The Lip and Sluice are very steep up higher. The Lip averages 40-45 degrees.

The Chute is very intimidating from the top in the spring since it narrows with ugly looking rock walls on either side.

Dodges Drop which is located to the left looking up at Hillmans Highway is apparently over 50 degrees. Hillmans Highway is most consistent I found and is probably in the neighbourhood of 40 degrees.

Tuckerman's Ravine, alpine skiing the way it used to be ... An Eastern ski mountaineering classic! (Click on the photo to enlarge the image.)

Mountaineering Literature

A terrific short essay about one climber's favorite books. Great minds think alike, as several of his favorites would make my all-time hit list. So, what is the best book about mountain climbing or the alpine world that you have read? (Click on this text to access a link and read the short article.)

Chouinard: a reprint of his famous article

As I think about going back to Yosemite this summer, to climb the West Face of Leaning Tower with Mark, I have re-read this seminal work on "modern yosemite climbing." STRONGLY RECOMMENDED! (Click on the text to access a link and read this famous 1963 essay.)

Spring Nordic Skiing

Just back from a short 5-6K ski on the Porter Mountain Loop, and as you can see conditions are scratchy. Still, its a lot more fun than running! In 25+ years at NCS I have never stopped nordic skiing before April 1st, and it just looks like I will keep that streak alive ... but just barely.

Tuckerman's Ravine Documentary

Click on this text to access a link and watch a 90 second trailer for the video documentary on the history of skiing in Tuckerman's Ravine. An Eastern ski mountaineering classic ... Clear your calendar for May 2-3 and come and join us.

First Tracks!

Last weekend when I was skiing at Killington, the first tracks were being put down on the Tuckerman's Ravine Headwall. Click on this link to get to the comprehensive website about skiing and alpine climbing in Tuckerman's or Huntington Ravine.(This link is also a good resource for ski mountaineering in general.)

Schussing the Headwall

Click on the text to access the enclosed link and read the written transcript of Toni Matt's talk in 1983 where he described the experience of his famous run from the summit of Mount Washington. It is estimated that he hit a top speed of 85 mph on his way down the 50 degree slope. This link comes from the New England Ski Museum in New Hampshire.

An Eastern Ski Mountaineering Classic

The weekend of May 2-3 Hockmeister will be heading to ski the Tuckerman's Ravine headwall. One of the most famous ski stories in American history was Toni Matt's schuss of the headwall, skiing from the summit of Mount Washington to the road 6:29 ... a record never equalled to this day! Come and join me. (Click on the image to enlarge this famous photograph.)

Maybe I am in the wrong place

Late in the day, with my quads screaming from too many telemark turns, my buddies start dragging me down these kind of runs! After a couple of these runs I was thoroughly shot. I guess I can chalk it up as good ski mountaineering training.

College Reunion

What an amazing day ... Fabulous Spring conditions.

Biking in Florida

Lucy, Selden, and friends Alex and Joanne continue to enjoy a warm weather vacation. (As usual Hock is searching for the last bits of winter, heading off to Killington with college buddies tomorrow.) However, I did take advantage of some close-out sales to buy Lucy some new racing poles, and I believe she still has a couple of days left of skiing on the Porter Mountain Loop when she gets back from Florida!

Out of Africa

Four hours from Maputo, this crag in South Africa (waterval boven) sports over 600 routes. Greg and Tory report a great weekend of cragging. "Nothing as easy as Clip Jr at Owen's River Gorge," was the quote of the day ... however those bolts are looking pretty closely spaced for an alpinisit. Needless to say, here in the Adirondacks I am hoping to skip out of the office early and go ice climbing.

Wow!

I am heading over to the office, and I just did 45 minutes on the rowing machine watching the end of the video “Steep.” I highly recommend it! If you have access to netflix order it now, if you are on campus and want to watch it before I send it back let me know. This subjective history of extreme ski mountaineering moves from Bill Briggs skiing the Grand, to Baud-Boivin-Vallencant in Chamonix, to big lines in the Chugach, to the more recent ski movie stars (Coombs, Plake, Stump, McConkey, Backstrom), and it comes full circle with traditionalist, Andrew McLean skinning up remote big mountains to ski down 50+ degree couloirs ... one seamless blend of alpine and ski mountaineering.

Haute Route: planning for next year?

So, Brian was invited on a trip for this coming April but can not make it, should the fossils (and friends) start planning for next March? We could go a little early and avoid all the crowds and trade slightly shorter days for more powder. Watch the enclosed five minute video of the classic traverse from Chamonix to Zermatt. Many believe this to be the best ski mountaineering traverse on the planet, and oh yes, there are multiple opportunities for alpine climbing along the 70 mile route.

Fossil Friend

The enclosed picture is of Frank helping the western PA conservancy, and the State Game Commission, tagging bear cubs, and radio collaring, and tattooing the sows. He also spent a part of the day taking blood and DNA samples. In April he is heading over to the Alps to do another haute route.

Still Ice to be Climbed!

You have to be a bit more selective, however as you can see from the close-up (roadside view), Chouinard's Gully is in great shape, and the view from near Giant's Washbowl shows plenty of other ice in the Chapel Pond area. (Click on the photographs to enlarge the images.)

Winter Ascent of Giant

On the last day of winter, Reggie and I climbed Giant, one of my
favorite 46ers. We did six miles, 3000', on a spectacular sunny day.
About 2/3 of the trip was done in crampons.

70th Day on Snow

Another warm and sunny day in the mid-40s. Conditions were superb ...
I wish I was on skating gear instead of waxless.

Meanwhile ...

Down in Florida, my family and friends are doing quite well in Daytona! Enclosed picture is Jon and Lucy, and best buddy Alex.

Next Trip

This gully is the site of an ice climb called, "Adirondike", a classic route that is in great conditions (NEI 3+). Larry and Dave do you want to do it? Really now, isn't it a little too early to put away your ice tools to start thinking about rock climbing? (Click on the photograph to enlarge the image.)

Checking Out the Route

3:00 PM and we are looking at the Route. The Trap Dike on Colden is one of the classic winter mountaineering routes in the East, however ... Maybe it is a little a late in the day !

Avalanche Lake

A small alpine lake bounded on both sides by 500' cliffs on both
sides. There are several modest routes but most are NEI V or some
heinous M- whatever. If you are not put off by the approach this is a perfect place for alpinists, from tykes to tigers!

Winter Mountaineering

Brian gets a great deal from Cascade Ski Touring Center ... New boots,
new skis, a free pair of socks, and several free beers! Here he is
taping up a "hot
spot" ... 20K, 1600', and two pitches.

Fun Factor Increasing

Mark finally has his skis on and is enjoying the tour to Marcy Dam.
The packs are pretty heavy!

Daunted by Eastern Powder

The boys were a bit out of sorts with the hard pack conditions.
Despite my constant cajoling they walked the first 3 kilometers.
Spirits soared as the temperature climbed and the skiing improved.
Avalanche Lake is one of the most spectacular places in the East.