Quote of the Week ... Dougal Haston

"It had been a night right for bitter dreams, but it is better to have bad dreams than good on a bivouac: waking up to harsh reality is less disappointing."

On the occasion of a winter bivouac on the North Face of the Matterhorn in the early 1970s. Written after his grueling winter bivouacs on the Eiger Direct but well before his famous bivouac way high on Everest with Doug Scott after climbing the Southwest Face.