Saturday, May 14, 2011

Dougal Haston: nightshift in zero

In 1957 Patey, MacInnes, and Nicol climbed the notorious Zero Gully on Ben Nevis. The scene of many epics and at least three fatalities, the climb had to wait three years before it's second ascent. Dougal, Robin Smith, and Andy Wightman made the second ascent in fine style, except for the fact that no one remembered to bring ropes. As the CIC hut was full of English climbers - Sassenach invaders - it was considered good form to pinch one of theirs. Dougal figured that as long as they slept late, and climbed into the dark, they would never have to explain themselves. His interesting account of the climb ended with these words:

"It was all hell let loose up there. So we quickly beetled off down Four Gully in the dim light of approaching dawn to face court-martial for rope-thieving by the English dayshift."