Almost 35 years ago our stove blew up in the vicinity of campsite 5 and ended our attempt on the West Rib of Denali. We were already totally bummed, as Don whimped out, and we had to abandon the Cassin Ridge which had been our goal.
Five years earlier than that, before I had ever led a pitch of ice, I was sitting in the basement of the Union College Library when I read the following quote which kindled a deep desire that fueled three Alaskan adventures:
"This method of approaching McKinley directly from the south is so continually steep and difficult, and so exposed to the full force of the southwesterly storms that none but the most uniformly experienced and powerful team of climbers should even think of attempting it. But I mention it here in conclusion because to omit it would be to sidestep the greatest remaining pioneer ascent in North America.” – Bradford Washburn fromMountain World, 1956/57, page 81.