Sunday, October 4, 2026

Starting to think about ski season

Skiing has started in Ruka; in two weeks there will be tracks also in Canmore; and of course there will be tracks over Thanksgiving at Mount Van Hoevenberg. Given my new knee, I am hoping to be nordic skiing on easy terrain after Thanksgiving.

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Saturday, October 3, 2026

GREAT DAY at the UCI MTB WORLD CUP

I am exhausted having logged more kilometers on the new knee than I ought to!

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Friday, October 2, 2026

Thursday, October 1, 2026

Sketching through my climbing history!

Including the ones that got away! I first saw the Matterhorn in December 1972, at the tail end of a semester off from college with Dick, vagabonding about Europe. I was smitten, and when I came back in 1978, I was an “aspiring hard man” and had just knocked off 3-4 classic ice routes, thus I vowed “I would get on the hornligrat as I descend it, from one of the sexier alternatives.” Of course, the partner I had hooked up with, had to go back to work, and I got sick. (I count that three month European climbing trip, as my longest bivy … no money for campgrounds, huts, or lifts) Thankfully, Lenny and his travelers checks nursed me back to health, and for my payback I was meant to guide him up the Matterhorn, but alas the weather was crappy. I came back in 1992 with Gary with designs on the North Face; then came back again in 2012 with Carter Rowley; in both cases we had great ski tours and some good warmup climbs, but never enough settled weather to jump on the Schmid route. So, it seems the Matterhorn will have to wait until my next reincarnation.

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Swiss glaciers shrink dramatically

 https://www.aol.com/articles/swiss-glaciers-lose-more-5-230131000.html

Wednesday, September 30, 2026

Article about hotel at the base of the Eiger mordwand

So much drama and history surrounds the little hamlet of Kleine Schidegg where all the climbing epics have played out in front of the telescope on the porch! A quick google will bring you to the site. 

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Tuesday, September 29, 2026

Monday, September 28, 2026

Today is four weeks post-surgery

I had another good rehab week! I logged 11:45 hours of exercise, on 88k (79k bike and 9k run), with 775’ vertical gain. I also managed a bunch of stretch, and PT work, some with weights as well as band resistance.

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Good article on the proliferation and confusion of training zones

https://cms.fasterskier.com/2026/09/training-zones-zone-2-heart-rate/

Sunday, September 27, 2026

BLAST FROM THE PAST: 1978 my first route in Zermatt

I had just spent a month climbing in the Lake District, Wales, and the Dolomites. I headed to Zermatt for 3-4 weeks, met a Brit (about a decade older than me) and proceeded to simul-solo a bunch of classic routes … the Triftjigrat being the first.

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Saturday, September 26, 2026

Excellent documentary about ultra running

https://youtu.be/MnZlcm0KZrk

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Friday, September 25, 2026

UCI mountain bike World Cup back in Lake Placid

Next week the best competitive mountain bikers return to Mount Van Hoevenberg and Whiteface from October 2-4. Looking forward to be able to hike some of the course!

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Thursday, September 24, 2026

Adirondack Sky Center and Onservatory

I can not make a visit tonight, but it is on my “to do” list for the future.

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Wednesday, September 23, 2026

Explore this wonderful ski mountaineering website

Just google The High Route, and enjoy poking around. Additionally, I have just finished reading their recent journal publication, as well as getting ready to download some of their podcasts.

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Tuesday, September 22, 2026

Barn laps

Part of my rehab work, is to do two daily walks on our gravel driveway. Depending how far up or down the driveway I go, the laps tend to be 5-8 minutes long. So, yesterday on my easy walks, I covered a total of 1.5k with 125’ vertical gain, in just under 30 minutes.

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Monday, September 21, 2026

Day #20 post-surgery

Well, it’s obvious that my left knee is still swollen, however it appears that the swelling is much reduced. This reduction is most notable by the ripple of individual quad muscles which are now discernible, and the tendons in my left foot which are clearly visible as well. The additions of two short “hikes” a day with my dog, and range of motion exercise biking, have clearly improved my mood. These “exercises”bring huge psychological benefits even if the physical benefits are purely incremental. Obviously, my weekly log is quite modest, with 9.5 hours, on 47 kilometers (39k bike and 7k run), and 700’ vertical gain, with many stretching and PT workouts.

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Sunday, September 20, 2026

Another fond Teton memory

Brought to you by chatGPT; my recent stay at the Climbers Ranch with Klink, brought back many fond memories from the 1970s and 80s.

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Saturday, September 19, 2026

BLAST FROM THE PAST: buck mountain

With the help of chatGPT I turned an old, blurry, Kodak picture of me bouldering in the woods into an oil painting. Memory tells me, I was guiding a group of teenagers up the East Ridge of Buck Mountain in the Tetons. (On a rest break on the approach, I did a bit of bouldering on this erratic in my vintage Nike Cortez running shoes.) The peak is a fourth class scramble, but I recall setting up two rope lengths which campers climbed with prussik self-belays.

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Friday, September 18, 2026

Day #18 post-surgery

Knee flexion is up to 108 degrees, enough to do some range of motion cycling (not aerobic) on my exercise bike. A few days ago at my two week visit, I was cleared for easy walking on flat, and obviously, non-technical terrain. So, my movement world has enlarged. Until I can drive - probably another three weeks - my go to place will be laps on our gravel drive way. (Supplemented by some hiking on the roller ski track at MVH, when I can get Selden to do drop-offs.)

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Thursday, September 17, 2026

Underrated mountaineering films to watch



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As I am spending time icing during my rehab, I am going to watch them all … the summit, the eight mountains, the wall, and the last mountain.