Saturday, September 3, 2011

Hard Bouldering ... The impossible dream



I posted this photograph just in case you are mistaking this short video for Yosemite Valley. The hurricane Irene has still left some of our Adirondack boulders seeping water from their cracks. Dave deals with this issue by some judicious use of a propane torch to dry key sections of the crack. As the video shows he has worked out the crux starting moves, and we anticipate his first ascent sometime this Fall. I worked on this problem for several years in the 1980s. When Russ Clune came for a visit - at the top of his game having just soloed Super Crack 5.12d in the Gunks - he worked it for an hour without nailing the crux, and left saying, "it will go at hard 5.13."

Enjoy.