SIERRAS: day 3

Another uncharacteristically, rainy day in Tahoe. Despite the poor weather I had another active day:

I did an easy 2.5 hour run, with 30 minutes of yoga, and a 30 minute walk with Mark as warmup. Then we ordered take out, and watched Good Girls Revolt.

Today we head to Yosemite!

SIERRAS: day 2

Well, skies were cloudy with intermittent rain all day; pretty uncharacteristic for the Tahoe region. That said, we had a good day. A leisurely morning, with some yoga and a little tai chi for me. Then, a half-hour walk with Mark on his post-surgery, cardiac rehab route. We laughingly dubbed it the Tiger Tail head wall … we made the direct ascent, without oxygen, and no fixed ropes. (Of course, the street had a whooping 75' vertical.)  After this, Mark took me to the Pole Creek Canyon trailhead, where I had a wonderful two hour run, with some nice views of Silver Peak, and the surrounding forested hills (below). I spiced it up with some 3 x 3 minute intervals at above race pace. We finished the day with a bit of wine; some great lasagna and potato salad that Mark and Liz cooked; and finally a couple of episodes of Good Girls Revolt.

Tom Brokaw: Chouinard, Patagonia, Tompkins, and the environment

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/09/20/opinion/patagonia-yvon-chouinard-tom-brokaw.html

SIERRAS: Day 1

After a brutal 24+ hours of travel, including an unplanned bivy in the Dallas airport, I managed to squeeze in a good hike up to High Camp at 8200'.

BLAST FROM THE PAST … dance of the woo-li masters

One of my fond mountain memories was hanging out on the Kahiltna Glacier with Jim Bridwell after putting Mark on the plane to Talkeetna following our successful Denali climb. For almost two hours before Bridwell's pilot returned, we guzzled his Jack Daniels, and shot the breeze. 

After I told him I was going to stay put for a week before my next partner (Michael Franklin) flew in, he said "well if you are still here when I get back maybe we can do a route on the North Buttress of Hunter."  He was flying out to film a segment for American Sportsman on Angel Falls in Venezuela. 

Just in case you are wondering, I did let him know, that his climbing level was way out of my league.  His misperception came about because during our conversation he told me he was desperate to climb the big ice routes in the Alps.  I told him of my Sentinelle Rouge solo on Mont Blanc - certainly a big ice climb - but certainly not desperate. Needless to say, he was the real deal, a climbing genius, and I was just a guy plugging away.

https://www.outsideonline.com/culture/books-media/dance-woo-li-masters/

Documentary about 1982 Alpine Meadows Avalanche coming to theaters and Amazon Prime

https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=129&v=G4NpOlJ_O-I&feature=emb_title

YVON CHOUINARD … continues to be true to his values giving up PATAGONIA

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/09/14/climate/patagonia-climate-philanthropy-chouinard.html

Ski and Run The Whites

https://news.ultrasignup.com/rock-hopping-run-the-whites/?utm_campaign=Weekly%20News&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=225820939&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-8Aebsi68n_61GkCEMEunJHOGR7A4wGChbj01V3dDBM_sytmXnFCvgKPPv2sKGlTORVQBaC1ZVC2kgbVLli3-qGv7W2kA&utm_content=225820937&utm_source=hs_email

BLAST FROM THE PAST … sentinelle rouge brenva face

Having seen a bunch of the articles about the collapse of the Col de la Fourche hut, brought up many fond memories of my climb of the Sentinelle Rouge route (in red).  

It started with the first cable car ride of my life - Aiguille du Midi - followed by a not insignificant climb to the hut. The hut held 4-6 comfortably, but that evening there were a dozen jammed in. A South African and I were curled up under the table in our duvets. Sleep was impossible as the first party, left at 11pm, probably for the Pear (green); followed every 30 minutes by a party going to the Route Major (blue), or the Brenva Ridge (yellow). 

At 12:30 am, we gave up all pretense of getting more sleep, ate a chocolate bar, and at 1pm headed out on the glacier. At Col Moore, Richard untied - "you are faster than me" - and we each soloed the route. I arrived on the summit just before a glorious sunrise and Richard arrived 20 minutes later … then followed the long slog back to Snell's Field, as neither of us had money for the cable car, or the train from Montenvers.

Three weeks later, after some tuning up in the gunks, and a transcontinental Greyhound bus trip, my South African friend and I arrived in Yosemite, to meet Mark.  Of course, Mark had a different adventure to end his European climbing trip, and a story to tell, and re-tell through the ages. 



http://footlesscrow.blogspot.com/2019/08/the-uncrowned-king-of-mont-blancreviewed.html

Sierra postponement …

Fires in the Sierra foothills - ash and bad air quality - had me putting off my flight for a week. (Good thing I had trip insurance.) Still hoping to do at least one of the races at the Mammoth Trail Festival … probably the race up the Dragon Back trail.

Speed Ascent of a 7000 meter peak

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=V486o_8bE8g&feature=emb_imp_woyt

Jimmy Chin’s new adventure series

This ten episode series is streaming on National Geographic and Disney+.  Find out more on the enclosed link. 

https://www.adventure-journal.com/2022/09/jimmy-chin-is-about-to-take-us-over-the-edge/

Most skimo vert in 24 hours

Read the full article:

https://skiinghistory.org/online-magazine/short-turns-ski-mountaineering-speed-records-fall

Fall is on its way

Night time temperatures are dropping into the low 40s, migratory Canada geese are resting in our pastures, and I am starting to pack for my trip to the Sierras. Hoping to get some early October snow to ski on the toll road.

Historic Col de La Fourche hut collapses

One of my fondest alpine memories, was a cramped bivy on the floor, prior to a 1 am departure to solo the Sentinelle Rouge on the Brenva Face. 

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/landslide-destroys-alberico-borgna-bivouac-at-col-de-la-fourche-mont-blanc-massif.html

7000 meter peak … up and down in under ten hours

https://www.wildsnow.com/32452/a-7000m-himalayan-speed-project-dispatch-5/

Good recovery from last weeks race

I logged 20 hours and 6125' vertical this week after running up Mount Mansfield last Sunday. This included 124k on the exercise bike and 58k on foot. Next Saturday I will be in the Sierras.

Accelerating Himalayan glacial melt has big hydrological impact

https://undark.org/2022/08/29/melting-himalyas-glaciers-climate-change/

Are mountain ultras getting to dangerous?

https://www.outsideonline.com/health/running/racing/utmb-runner-death-2022/

The DYNAFIT Transalpine Run … 8 stages, starting tomorrow

https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=54&v=Hqa_Ijx7ISA&feature=emb_title

The backstory on UTMB winner Katie Schide … a great ten minute video

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bC8n3675fvk

Skiing a 7000 meter peak … thanks to WildSnow reports

Still acclimatization, but in the last video they ski up to Camp 2.

https://www.wildsnow.com/32363/a-7000m-himalayan-speed-project-dispatch-3/

Took the pedal off the gas a bit last week …

In an effort to have fresh legs for the race. Still, it was a good week with 14 hours logged and just over 5,500' vertical. I am starting to look for an ultra, after my return from out West next month.

Race to the Top of Vermont

This was a good event, well worth doing again, and I did well … finishing third in the 70+ age group. The toll road was 4.3 miles and about 2600'. I ran the course in 1:06, while the top guys were in 36 minutes.

Katie Schide wins UTMB

Kilian looks like he will win in under 20 hours

He is approaching Flegere and has at least a ten minute gap on second place. It looks like we will have two Americans - Jim Walmsley and Zach Miller - in the top five. American Katie Schide looks like she may win UTMB as well.

So, are there other boxes of jewels on the Mer de Glace?

https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-59538540

Run or hike up those hills in your next ultra?

https://freetrail.com/climb-the-mountain-when-to-run-hike-or-pole/

How ultra-races impact your body

https://www.trailrunnermag.com/training/trail-tips-training/how-do-men-and-women-differ-in-post-ultra-physiological-responses/

Via Ferrata

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/08/22/travel/via-ferratas-in-america.html?action=click&module=Well&pgtype=Homepage&section=Travel

Skimo on a Himalayan 7000M peak

https://www.wildsnow.com/32209/a-7000m-himalayan-speed-project/

BLAST FTOM THE PAST … chamonix

After guiding our Chamonix-Courmayeur (TMB), Mark and I spent another couple of weeks camping in Argentiere. We spent the time hiking, climbing, eating and drinking wine, as well as spectating UTMB week.

This picture is from our hike down, after a bivy at Lac Blanc.

American nordic skiers finding success in trail running

https://fasterskier.com/2022/08/running-roundup-skiers-find-success-at-the-golden-trail-world-series/

Glacial melt in the alps continues to accelerate

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wRDPrRCYytU&feature=emb_title

Movement In The Mountains … runner, musician, climber

An enjoyable short video by Black Diamond … good music, nice footage of trail running, and speed climbing on Boulder's Flatirons.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=D20lx0bNAbs

This year’s PTL course

https://utmbmontblanc.com/en/tv/1-ptl

UTMB week starts August 22nd

If Courtney is not at the start who will win? Will this be the year of Jim Walmsley and Zach Miller?  Or will Kilian and Francois battle it out?  How many PTL teams will complete their 300k, and 150 hour odyssey?  Follow everything on the link below …

https://utmbmontblanc.com/jp/page/1/a-mythical-race,-an-unique-experience.html

Good article and essential reading for Fossils … balance

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/08/12/well/move/balance-exercises.html?action=click&module=Well&pgtype=Homepage&section=Well

The Nordkette Traverse outside of Innsbruck

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NktVxZ-69Vw

Another change in direction …

The month of May was about the last of the skiing, and getting used to running. June was about biking to get ready for the Prouty. July was adding more running/hiking volume and vertical, with some intensity added as well. Now after the Stratton Uphill Race, it's about more running/hiking volume with a pack, and some bouldering to get ready for the Tetons.

Yesterday, the key part of my 3+ hour workout was a Level 2 hike up the Tim Burke Uphill on Whiteface with a 20 pound pack. The day before that, I did some laps on the new competition loops with my mountaineering boots. Today I am hoping for some bouldering.

From the ADVENTURE JOURNAL … Eric Shipton a mountaineering badass

https://www.adventure-journal.com/2022/08/eric-shiptons-style-and-whims-shaped-mountaineering-history/

FIT TO PLAY … a superb resource

They have a list of 20+ sports activities, and three tiers of exercises to do. Well worth a visit.  The screen capture is for the 11 basic exercises for climbing.

https://fittoplay.org/sports/climbing/climbing/

Ski touring speed record on Dhaulagiri 7

 https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PUqt64kXoWs



Pinning the bib on …

Yesterday, I raced the Stratton Uphill Run, which was 3.2k and just a shade under 2000' vertical.  USST member Gus Schumacher was first in 21:23, Ben Ogden in 21:49, and Hagenbuch 22:30. For the women, Novie McCabe ran a blistering 23:54, Alayna Sonnesyn 25:53, and Diggins in 26:13.  I finished in 38:03, which was comfortably within the "fossil handicap" of double the podium times. Julia Kern did it as a bounding workout with poles in 30 minutes, which she described as a comfortable level 3 jaunt!

Are you longing for ski season?

Tomorrow I will be running up Stratton Mountain, trying to see how long I can keep USST members Gus Schumacher, Jessie Diggins, Julia Kern in my sights. I am guessing that within 3-4 minutes they will be out of my sight! Hopefully, I will get an autograph or two at the awards ceremony. 

I have been reading Lowell Skoog's book - Written In The Snows - the definitive history of skiing in the cascades. It mentioned that the Olympic gold medalist skater's first movie was Thin Ice (1937 picture below), and the ski scenes were filmed by Otto Lang at Mount Rainier.  A musical comedy, which along with Sun Valley Serenade did much to expose Americans to the sport of skiing. 

And so, after tomorrow's race, Jessie and Julia are off to Australia for three weeks of on-snow training, while many of the other American nordic team members are off to the ski tunnels in Europe, as well as participating in the big summer rollerski races. 

I will go back to running laps on the new competition trails at Mount Van Hoevenberg and reading Skoog's book, while I  keep my fingers crossed for October skiing on the Whiteface toll road.

BLAST FROM THE PAST … december 2007 ice climbing trip

Just coming back from climbing the "Eye Of The Needle" on the north side of Pitchoff with Brian and Gary.

Rate Perceived Exertion … in life as well as endurance sports

From the authors of Peak Performance, a nice little essay. 

https://thegrowtheq.com/how-to-apply-an-rpe-scale-to-life/?utm_source=The+Growth+Equation&utm_campaign=53581e2cfe-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2017_07_14_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_ca7b0a0e16-53581e2cfe-179831701

Malcolm Gladwell’s modest proposal for high school sports

https://malcolmgladwell.bulletin.com/a-modest-proposal-to-fix-high-school-sports

THE SLOVAK: reflections on light and fast alpinism

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2qXUxlTk0IM

July had good moments, but everything was overshadowed by the emergency appendectomy

I turned 70 and it was not traumatic, and just yesterday, we had a good family reunion on the New Hampshire coast (picture of the Great Bay). Training went well, with weekly running volume, vertical, and intensity making steady gains. I finished the
month having trained 73+ hours with 23,675' vertical (all on foot).

However, three weeks after the surgery - although Selden is up and about - she still is trying to recover appetite, strength, and zest. When will she feel normal? It was a very tough month.